TajMan

THUMBS UP And I saw that the vacuum hose was disconnected on my MAP sensor and THAT is what had been making the thing run crappy and worry me the past short while. I got some Seafoam, you guys like Seafoam?

Drano did it, then forcing with garden hose finally flushed my heater core! :) Everything re-assembled, Just new pieces of Autozone 3/4" heater hose used, that one vacuum-actuated valve removed. New coolant bottle radiator cap I needed too. Heat works, kind of mellow but it works- huge difference from nothing when its been frigid out. Thanks for tips guys 1 more problem thread eliminated.

I believe my heater core is blocked I have 2 new hoses connected there on firewall, using a garden hose trying to force water through one- I can try to force a good little amount of pressure and it just builds never coming out the other tube. What can be done to try and clean? I have some Drano here I was thinking of putting in and letting sit, try to flush with water again after. I figure I can't do much to ruin anything if I end up just having to replace heater core anyway.

How hard to change heater core if I have AC? Thinking about just removing AC anyway, I'm sure it doesn't work right now.

Bosch 02 sensor from different vehicle compatible if it uses the same # of wires etc? I've got 2 ok used ones in my garage I believe.

I have a dent near the mount on the driver's side of front bumper, right side if you're LOOKING at the front end of truck. ???

FINALLY got the thing open friend of mine in the cab with his arm inside the door messing with the levers, me standing on the outside trying the button at different times. ALL fixed up works in and out, new door panel now. Just in case anyone is wondering, a latch from a car with electronic locks will work in a vehicle with manual locks fine, just one spot on the latch itself going unused with no arm connected-its ok because the rest all bolts up and works with the vehicle still. The bolts on Cherokee door latches can OFTEN be stuck too tight which will strip out the hex threads with a standard allen wrench. Can grind/drill out in garage, NOT easily in junk yard.

I'll start with a garden hose and see if water passes through it.

Well after I replaced my blower motor and fixed my vents so air blew, I learned the HEAT never comes! No matter how long engine warms up, how long you leave blower on hi on heat setting, it never warms out the vents. Thermostat was new so thats not the issue, coolant does get hot. It makes me angry my 87 doesn't have a temp gauge just a dummy light. (had an 88 short while, it had temp-oil press-and battery gauges instead of the dummy lights) I'm pretty sure heater core isn't "bypassed".... my problem?

huh? I see out windows better now, sitting slightly higher. Plenty of room in middle to see out rear-view.

I had the seats I pulled from my '89 Conquest Tsi (Mitsubishi Starion) that is down for a time, I decided to fab brackets and put them in the truck. Seats may even be originally from an 87 Starquest or something. Pulled out the old bench seat. I've finished the driver's side. I love how it is for the driving position now, sitting higher, and I'm 5'8" so its fine. Retaining all stock slide/tilt functions. I got to play with this new welder for the first time, will be using it on a few other projects here soon. 110V Lincoln Weldpack 3200HD MIG welder WITH Argon gas ahh very nice, you can create a very clean weld. I'd just welded with ARC welder and little with flux-cored MIG in the past. I can spend an excess amount of time welding and grinding but I'm learning and my finished product is STRONG. Still have the passenger seat to do, I still need to get my passenger's door open first! :redX: I'll keep updating this thread with my interior pics when I do the pass. seat, center console stuff, etc.

And sold 88 for $600 oh-yeah I'm painting an employee's wife's scooter pink in trade for a 6" lift kit for my 87 Manche. (Rocky Road Outfitters, Heber UT)

My interior panel is all cut off BTW and I still haven't been able to get latch open from inside door.

Truck sat for 2 years, my bud said he had opened the door at one point. Possibly wouldn't open from outside but did from inside. When I got it, never opened from either.

I've spent time on it and have yet to get the door open. Can you explain better about a skinny screwdriver and reaching the latch from the inside? Reaching in the door, moving some stuff on the latch, I was able to make the handle on the outside of the car FEEL like it has some resistance behind the button like its moving something this time, but when you push in it still has no effect, door still won't open. I bought a damn 2nd Comanche with a passenger's door that DOES open. :D

I've got an 89 Chrysler Conquest Tsi. 6th turbocharged Mitsubishi car I've owned. I got it broken, spent 1 month fixing motor/turbo/things. Drove it for 2,000 miles and motor crapped out on me. Pulled motor/trans/etc and sold stuff I didn't want. Car is stored now until the day I have some money, it will get a supercharged or turbocharged LSx V8 in it, 500-600HP, T-56 or TH400 tranny. I paint and will be painting my 87 Comanche, the Conquest. The 88 Comanche died and wouldn't start. I messed with crank angle sensor plug, got it going again.

I replaced thermostat, filled some water, installed a different battery. Started right up and runs awesome for a 237K mile work truck! Man I love that manual trans, this one feels great. For a total of $325 invested, meet Betsy (the cow that wouldn't die, white with brown spots): 1 of my brothers just got his license so Jonathan/my dad are going to buy it from me for $500

My #1 truck was acquired a month ago, I've been through hell and back already on this BIG project. Its driving pretty good now, ready for paint soon and suspension work/wheels later: That one is an '87 Comanche Pioneer 4X4 I6 automatic trans longbed with only 115,000 miles. Tonight I picked up a 2nd MJ. I saw it in Craigslist, I snatched it up quick and got it for only $300!! Still need to tow it home. Its an '88 Comanche 4X4 I6 manual trans shortbed. It has 237,000 miles yeah thats high but its just a beat up body work truck and supposedly ran great except its current problems. It needs a battery, and it overheats, so needs a thermostat and just POSSIBLY a radiator. For $300 I think a great deal, it will be fixed and probably out of my hands in 1 week. Its either going to my father as a work truck, or to the guy who GAVE me the 1st manche(needing head rebuild at that time). That friend will either get this truck running or he'll get $600 for the 1st broken manche he gave me. Pics of this 1 tomorrow hopefully.

Its an air horn type, they had higher and lower pitch at Autozone this one's high. Not TRAIN loud, but its louder than a regular car horn. I have it wired up to a on/off switch so I can feel like an a$$hole and leave it on blaring the horn for a sec. :D

I replaced the blower motor, 20A fuse I had put in there had melted, new 25A fuse in and it works I have vents now! I have a loud @$$ air horn thing to install, I'll wire it up with a push button switch I have on the dash or something. (whats up with stock horn, took plastic center off of stock steering wheel and it looks like no wiring/terminals were ever there for a wheel horn?) I assume dome fuse is for two lights that are on sides above seatbelts. Where is switch for those lights? I guess I'll just be wiring up others anyway...

Blew air though the little line its clear. Installed new air filter. Big tube coming off valve cover is now routed to a nice catch can bottle I have near the ignition coil. I plug-up any unused hose spots now on airbox etc. We'll see how she continues to run (mileage) and how much oil the bottle collects.

When I hotwire the connector from the blower motor straight to the battery, the motor DOES start spinning, but making a bad screeching/whining sound like it hasn't moved in a long time and IS bad needing replacement. #1 question, why doesn't it try to spin when I put the heater or vent on normally, whats the next thing to troubleshoot there? #2 how do you remove it from vehicle? Looks like there are some bolts that can be removed from the engine bay side, but then it looks like the assembly will have to come out from inside the cab- what has to be taken off inside to accomplish this? With the dome fuse instantly blowing, what does it bypass & need wired up different if I leave it out?

A friend told me he gets 16MPG city in his 4.0 XJ, so that makes it believable for me 14MPG with my clogged air filter and flooring it to go 65MPH uphill a long ways. I've got a new air filter, finishing my water pump, and will put breather hose in a little poweraid bottle I've got. BTW my cylinder compression was 120 - 115 - 120 - 120 - 120 - 120.

Interesting. Blow-by pressurizes crankcase, and forces extra oil from valve cover into tube when it splashes up near there? Would that air filter alone really explain my gas mileage? It was new and its 1/2 dry still, I would think it can still get air easy enough..

You guys are really helping on the mechanical questions threads. First, I rebuilt my head maybe 700 miles ago, yeah new air filter. I just started removing stuff to do my waterpump and found this: Obviously oil coming from the hose that goes between airbox and top of valve cover. Not right though, whats the problem? Is the end of hose right on the airbox some type of filter thats broken? BTW I've been getting horrible gas mileage too. Driving miles uphill I-80 SLC-Park City, like 14mpg!