Keyless entry

[eaglescout526]

To begin, here’s the two links I absolutely studied the hell out of before doing this mod
 

https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/1992-xj-rke-keyless-entry-upgrade-ir-to-rf-oem-omg.1143482/

 

https://berlinetta.info/KeylessEntry.htm

Before starting any of this I highly recommend you open up the module and inspect the circuit board. I found some light corrosion on mine and gave it a little alcohol bath and scrubbed away the corrosion and made sure my connections were still good. 

 

Here’s my notes direct from my notepad on my phone. 
 

Keyless entry 

GM to Jeep*

 

the Jeep Side                    TRW module side

Pink (power)--------------Pink C1d

Black (ground)------------Black C2e

Black W/tracer (dome lights)-----White C2d

Lt Green(lock)------Gray C2c

Tan(unlock)-------Tan (there are two tans use only one) C2g

Constant power                  Orange C2f

Black/white (ground for remote programming mode) C1a

 

*Note the connector numbers and where each wire goes in the connector and feel free to have the colors match the Jeep side if you’re making your own harness. 

 

Programming mode:

Once the module is installed, turn the key ignition to "ON" but not "RUN." Ground the Black/white wire. Within a few seconds the door locks will cycle. press and hold BOTH "lock" and "unlock" buttons on the transmitter. The locks will cycle again if and when the remote is accepted. Program any other remotes at this time, this way, as well. Once the ground is removed and the key ignition is turned "OFF," the transmitter data will be stored in the receiver. If the wire is re-grounded, all data will be lost and the remotes will need to be reprogrammed.

 

Well, if you go the RF route for pre-1990 models, I know for sure that it's possible.

 

I think the that key-less entry system consists of four wires.

pink - power

black - ground

tan - unlock (maybe lock, not sure)

green - lock (maybe unlock, again, not 100% sure)

 

The fifth wire for the dome lights is not totally necessary. But one should add though. My experience here is for some reason it’s reversed, interior lights should be on for 40 seconds when unlock is pressed and 2 when lock is pressed but not the case. Easy fix, don’t push the lock button on the remote but lock the door from the inside. If you want the lights on, just push lock and then unlock and the lights will be on. Or have fun reversing the relays if you want to dig that out. 

 

 

This is copied from the berlinetta link

 

The 95 set-up allows the user to unlock 1 or both doors. When installed in the 84 ( as described above ) the user can only lock/unlock BOTH doors at the same time.

 

The wire from TRW Plug C1 Pin 'D' should go to a better "switched ignition power" source (usually pink or pink/black in a ThirdGen ) than the brake switch. I've never had a problem with it on the brake switch's pink/black wire, but would go to a better source on my next install

 

Pics I gathered in case the links above ever go dead

 

And this one is for the connectors to note which is connector one and two

 

 

So I pretty much studied what the author of the original forum post did, made some notes and gathered parts. A TRW module from a 93-95 GM product, key FOB of your choice, in this case a pentastar Chrysler FOB of the same vintage, wire to make your harness from the module to power lock harness, XJ power door harness, a 12v-19v step up converter(trust me, you’ll need this for the locks) and the following connectors:

Metric-pack 150 connector:                                    Metri-pack 280 Connector:

                       

 

And depending on the year of the harness, this metri-pack 150:

 

I am not sure what years have that connector but I know for sure 84-86ish use a molex connector and 88- at least 91 will use that 3 terminal metri-pack 150.

 

(I am aware that format on the phone will look funny)

 

Install is pretty easy and forward. Whats nice about using the keyless harness from an XJ is you wont have to do any splicing. I am almost certain all power door XJs have this harness in the event keyless was to be installed at the dealer. 

Now if youre just now installing your XJ harness, installing this set up would be highly ideal at this time too so you can properly run the two power wires you need to the fuse block. Now the C1d is the ignition wire, this wire only activates the relay to turn off the interior lights. If you choose not to hook this feature up, you wont need to run that wire. I chose to cause its cool to have the lights still on as youre getting in. Now the only section of the block that I ama aware of that provides the ignition on is going to be the turn signals and cruise control. If you do not have cruise control, used the spot labeled IGN on the block. If you do, well were gonna have to look elsewhere or stick a spade connector in the same connector as the cruise control.

 

Now once you get the wiring where they need to go, highly recommend testing it once you’re at the point where it has power and ready to ground to accept your remotes. If everything is working correctly you should see and hear the locks cycle. If not, the relays in the module will be audible enough to let you know it’s ready for your fobs. 

If everything is working you can basically start putting things back together and call it a done deal. I ran into the issue where one relay was working and the other one wasn’t. Luckily I had some spares and tested them around to see what was gonna work.

 

Now I did run into other bizarre issues where I could swap the working relay to the other and it wouldn’t lock or unlock at the Jeep side, have both good relays in and stop working, have the good relay work in one spot but not the other. Results honestly will vary here but do not give up diagnosing. It’s pretty easy.