Renix Running Rich/want to fix some problems

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I want to make this thing run as good as possible that is the goal here. This is not just about the truck running rich so any tips and things i should do now are welcomed

 

new TPS, map sensor hose appears to be in good shape, not sure how to tell if the sensor itself is good.. 

new 02 sensor, newish coolant temp sensor

 

I have a REM, its a manual.. when I'm shifting gears... it drops out of closed loop for a second and goes into open loop, once back down to idle it pops back into closed.. I'm almost positive it is not supposed to do this! (I would really like to know why this is happening)

 

any tips are appreciated I really need this truck to be running as well as possible for not only my sanity but for the winter.

 

 

 

 

one of the manifold bolts is broken off in the head and has been since I've owned the truck is it worth taking off the head to fix? ( might this be why I'm running rich?)

 

I should probably go through all the vacuum lines 

 

there is a lot of gunked up oil in this engine bay on the vacuum harness as well as the valve cover ect seems like its coming out of everywhere that it could not sure where to start with that... (might some things be clogged up>?)

 

grounds have been refreshed (and I've upgraded all of my battery cables) 

 

seems to run pretty darn good despite what I've mentioned 

[cruiser54]

Inspect the MAP hose closely. You might consider doing this:  

CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS

THROTTLE BODY TO MAP SENSOR HOSE FIX

JANUARY 23, 2016 CRUISER54 51 COMMENTS EDIT

The Renix throttle bodies have a strange and failure prone connector on the side where the MAP supply originates and then runs up to the MAP sensor located on the firewall. This hose/pipe assembly is no longer available for purchase.

The real kicker here is how critical this line is in supplying the correct vacuum signal to the MAP, the most relied upon sensor for the ECU to read regarding air/fuel ratio. Any cracks, melted spots, or loose rubber connectors can cause major starting and driveability issues.

There’s a simple fix though. All that’s required is a 1/8” NPT tap, a new throttle body gasket ( Napa FPG 60742 ), a vacuum fitting (Napa 05703-B102), two vacuum elbows (Napa CRB2670), and a length of new plastic piping (Napa CRB2672).

Remove the throttle body and take it to the workbench.

Using an oiled tap along with a driver, carefully thread the lower of the 2 holes of the throttle body where the old fitting was plugged in. Don’t go too deep. These are pipe threads.

Flush the hole with carb cleaner and inspect for any left over cuttings.
This is an excellent time to do a complete throttle body and IAC cleaning.  See Tip 11.
Take the vacuum fitting (05703-B102 ) and apply a LITTLE bit of thread sealer on the threads only. I prefer Permatex #2 but almost anything is fine.

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Carefully screw the fitting in until snug.

Install one of the vacuum elbows on the MAP sensor so it points toward the throttle body, and the other vacuum elbow on your new throttle body fitting so it points up to the MAP sensor.
Cut a length of the new plastic tubing (approximately 13 inches) to fit between the vacuum elbows and install it making sure there is enough slack for some engine movement. Route it according to the photo. We don’t want any rubbing or chafing with engine movement.  Not a bad idea to use some contact cement or Gasga-Cinch sparingly on the tubing to elbow connectors.

[cruiser54]

Also, make sure the rest of the intake manifold bolts aren't loose. 

If those vacuum lines are full of oil, that can affect performance also. Here's a coupla other things to consider:

 

https://cruiser54.com/?p=60

 

https://cruiser54.com/?p=131

 

https://cruiser54.com/?p=121