yuhaze Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 I feel the need to replace the crankshaft position sensor and have read a bulletin about the sensitivity of losing signal along the line. the bulletin describes splicing the sensor bypassing the weatherpack connector. That is what I see in my comanche already. I am about to replace the sensor, but don't know if I should splice back into the harness, or use the weatherpack connectors. Can anyone provide some insight? Thanks in afvance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 if the weatherpack connectors are in good shape I'd use them. If they're trashed or corroded, I'd solder it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yuhaze Posted September 11, 2007 Author Share Posted September 11, 2007 well, it seems that the sensor has already been replaced and the wires spliced together. The new sensor has the connector, and I ordered a set of weatherpack connectors, so I am wondering if I should splice again or attach the new weatherpack connector to the harness and connect the sensor that way, or if I should just cut the connector off the new sensor and splice into the harness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted September 12, 2007 Share Posted September 12, 2007 Somebody misconstrued something. There should not have been any splicing involved. There was a TSB regarding signal strength, and the factory still sells a kit that includes a CPS and a two-wire replacement harness that completely bypasses the main wiring harness and goes through the firewall directly to the ECU. It is installed by removing two wires from the ECU connector and plugging the two wires from the new harness into those terminals on the connector. The new harness has a weatherpack on the engine compartment end. If your harness has been spliced, somebody was doing a bit of shadetree mechanic work. I would strongly suggest that you get the factory kit and do the job correctly. Splicing doesn't improve on the original installation. The problem is that the original harness is either too long or too small in gauge, and doesn't transmit the signal efficiently. The kit with the replacement harness corrects this. Just splicing to bypass the weatherpack connector doesn't do this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yuhaze Posted September 12, 2007 Author Share Posted September 12, 2007 thanks for the reply i do see that the wiring goes into the firewall, as the TSB describes, so I might have this already done. I did not yet verify the wires going directly to the ECU, but I suspect that is what is happening. I will likely install the weatherpack connector on the harness and plug the new sensor in that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yuhaze Posted September 14, 2007 Author Share Posted September 14, 2007 Well, I've ordered and received the weatherpack connector, now I face another challenge. I seems that the bolts are 11mm, but very difficult to get to. I started with the bolt furthest away. I used a swivel adapter with a few extensions, and slipped .... twice I'm afraid to damage the bolt too much, in fact I think it was already damaged; not too bad though. Is there a trick or a special tool to use to remove the bolts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yuhaze Posted September 18, 2007 Author Share Posted September 18, 2007 here's what happened: I used a 1/4 " drive, a 6 point swivel socket, and SEVERAL extensions. I used the mechanics of the swivel socket and the extension bars to create a leverage arm that is not possible without the swivel. In other words, the swivel socket locks and I use the extensions to do most of the turning rather than the ratchet itself. This, the 1/4 " drive,and the 6 point socket is what made removal of the sensor possible Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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