Tuzmaster Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 Hey guys So I am new on this forum, but not new to jeeps. Have currently a 99 WJ thats a DD that will be a crawler and an 87 MJ with a 4.0, unknown manual and a 231J tcase. The MJ will be turned into a daily as I love the manual. She was a 2wd and still is, but previous owner has put in a 4wd transmission and the tcase. I got a HPD30 with abs for bigger ujoints with the calipers. Plan for it is : - change the bushings, - add steering linkage - paint it - put it under Other stuff that will be done: -new sway bar links -rear end regearing because right now its a spool or a welded diff with a 3.07 -front end is a 3.55 so thats whats going in the rear. -Tires will just be 245/70 R16 cause i have a spare that size Questions: -How do you tell the transmissions apart (manual)? The plugs are weird squares that not fit any of the regular rachets. -Can i upgrade the steering linkage that is a bolt on from a XJ or a ZJ? Can that apply to track bar as well? -where do i find a set of D44 3.55 gears? if i search just D44 3.55 gears, would that work? Or were there different 44s that have to have specific gears that have to go under manche? May be someone is getting rid of a set of gears with a carrier? -Has anyone running that tire size/diff gear setup and how is it? I don't want to go any larger for DD -Has anyone done regearing in the D44? its 350$ for labor and if someone can teach/help me out, I'm willing to buy a meal or beer or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 The odd sized square drive plugs are one of the hallmarks of the Peugeot tranny, as they are a metric size. The Peugeot is also split down the length of the case, that is there is a flange at the top and the bottom of it where the case bolts together. I'm guessing you have a Peugeot. It's unfortunately a piece of crap. The steering can be upgraded using a V8 ZJ tie rod assembly, and a newer XJ drag link assembly. I think I put all the Moog P/Ns to do this in my build thread. Allegedly the ZJ drag link fits too, but I haven't tried it and there seemed to be some debate. The track bar is another animal, and I suggest buying an aftermarket one if you're going to lift it. All the XJ track bars from 87-01 are the same, so no upgrade there, and I do not think the ZJ one will fit or be an upgrade if it did. Make sure you have a D44 rear before you order anything for it. They're much less common than the D35. D35 is an egg shaped cover, D44 is a sideways diamond. Any set of normal non-JK low pinion D44 gears should fit. Yukon, Motive, G2, Dana, etc, will sell new gear sets. You will also need a bearing and setup (shims and seals) kit, available from the same brands. I don't personally like transferring used gears from one axle to another, they rarely setup properly if you do that, but the D44 is a common axle in older GM, Dodge, some Ford, Jeep, IH, etc applications and it would not be impossible to find a set of low pinion 3.55 D44 gears with the carrier. Make sure the carrier is a 30 spline setup, as there is 19 spline (IIRC) applications in older stuff, and that will not work. I'm running slightly larger tires than you with a manual tranny and 3.55 gears. I think it's fine. If I was going to use it as a serious offroader I would get a 4:1 tcase or doubler before I would change the gearing in the axles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuzmaster Posted June 1, 2017 Author Share Posted June 1, 2017 Thanks for info! Give it to me straight doc, how much does the tranny have behind the 4.0? What all would be involved in a tranny swap from the Peugeot to the AX15? Is that even possible for an 87 manche? Is it a bolt on or the clutch cylinder or other stuff need to be replaced? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 My original Peugeot lasted a long time, but it was the second one IIRC... It never blew up on me, but wasn't sounding very good at the end. Most of them fail in short order if they see wheeling/racing/abuse. The swap is well documented on here, I'd suggest searching for it as I might miss something. It's fairly straightforward though; my current truck is swapped. You need an AX-15, and a 23 spline tcase or 23 spline input gear to swap into your tcase (yours is 21 spline currently). A newer (93+) XJ AX-15 is preferable as it has an external slave cylinder. YJ ones work too, but they clock the tcase to the wrong spot (you can redrill or massage the floor), and I believe they need to be a 95+ for an external slave with them. You need the clutch for whatever transmission you get. Use your original flywheel (I suggest buying a new one though, but one for an 87-91 4L will work). You will need a pilot bushing from a 74ish CJ-5, as the pilot bearings from either setup will not work. Ideally you want the AX-15 transmission crossmember, as it has a drop section in it for the mount that lowers it by about 3/4". I used an AW4 crossmember as I prefer having the transmission/tcase up higher, but I've had to do some trimming in the shifter hole in the floor (and it needs a little more yet). You also need the correct AX-15 mount/mount plate, I made one out of an AW4 version, which also wound up mounting my tranny/tcase even higher. I don't recall if the driveshaft lengths stay the same or not. Like I said, search, or look in the write ups section, it's been covered (the swap is also the same on an XJ, so you can search NAXJA, Jeepforum, Cherokeetalk, Cherokeeforum, etc as well). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuzmaster Posted June 1, 2017 Author Share Posted June 1, 2017 So ideally if a donor XJ is found and you take tranny, tcase, crossmember, shift linkage for tranny and tcase (just in case) youll be good to go? Clutch should be bought new in my opinion. How is the size of the AX15 compared to the POS? If the lengths are the same then the driveshaft should be fine too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 Yeah, ideally find a donor to steal as much stuff from as possible. You might as well snag the front driveshaft too, because then you know you'll have the correct one. The shift linkage for the tcase is different too, I forgot that, I just made my own because I don't like the factory setup. I don't recall the length difference or if there is one. I'd suggest reading through this thread: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=70388 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuzmaster Posted June 2, 2017 Author Share Posted June 2, 2017 Thanks, thats a really good sum up. Other couple of questions I have: -Is there a poly bushing kit for the HPD30? I want to replace them now and would rather not go with stock ones as they are kind of a pain to install. -are the front springs different height between 2wd and 4wd models? seems 2wd sits lower than 4wd. -anyone want a wagoneer front end? I put the cherokee front facia on cause it looks better in my opinion and now have that just sitting there. have some headlight bessels too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 2, 2017 Share Posted June 2, 2017 What bushings do you want? I don't think anyone offers a complete kit, because there is a bunch of differences depending on sway bar size and control arm style. Energy sells most of them: http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/products/jeep_comanche_1988 Prothane offers some too: http://prothane.com/vehicle-applications/page/20/ And there is some other ones out there if you look around. Personally I'd never go through the trouble of replacing lower control arm bushings in the OEM control arms. They're quite terrible to do. IMHO you're better off buying replacement arms, either OEM style, aftermarket (such as Rubicon Express) or OEM style WJ (which need some modifications to work properly but are bent for tire clearance and have a nifty NVH isolator bushing at one end). The 2wd front springs do sit lower. Something around an inch, but with springs that are as old as a MJ it's pretty irrelevant, they're likely sagged out badly. They also tend to break near the last wrap on the bottom. If you're trying to bring it up to 4wd height you might be better off finding some NOS XJ or replacement OEM style coils, but if your coils are still in good shape you could just get a 3/4" poly spacer and it would be close. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuzmaster Posted June 5, 2017 Author Share Posted June 5, 2017 oka thanks. The tranny works fine so ill leave it for now. Currently I am prepping the front axle for some minor paint against rust and I want to replace the upper control arm bushings casue they are pretty bad. Ill reuse the control arms I have on now, and use the springs i pulled off of the donor jeep for the front axle. Track bar will just be used from a 97 to 2001 XJ. So from current confirming questions: -When upgrading the tie rod ends to ZJ, are they a bolt on or do the holes need to drilled to a size larger? -Which steering stabalizer to use? from ZJ or XJ? -The bolt patter on XJ/MJ axles for the wheels are 5x4.5 right? -does a 75w-90 gear work okay or are there better ones? Think so far thats it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 5, 2017 Share Posted June 5, 2017 -When upgrading the tie rod ends to ZJ, are they a bolt on or do the holes need to drilled to a size larger? -Which steering stabalizer to use? from ZJ or XJ? -The bolt patter on XJ/MJ axles for the wheels are 5x4.5 right? -does a 75w-90 gear work okay or are there better ones? -The ZJ tie rod ends will bolt in. Make sure you get the threaded adjuster coupler for them too as it is not the same as the original MJ/XJ stuff. -Either steering stabilizer should work, the Monroe lists XJ/MJ/ZJ/YJ/TJ as all being interchangeable. I used an OEM TJ one. -Yes, 5x4.5. Watch out for slight differences in hub diameters, some OEM wheels (IE, Ford) will not necessarily go over the hub. Aftermarket ones are normally fine. -If you're planning on using it in the Peugeot, 75w90 is fine or Redline MT-90 seems to be the preferred flavour. Some guys put motor oil in them, 10w-30 or 20w-50, I wouldn't. Axles will take 75w-90, however it is suggested that for severe use that 80w-140 or 75w-140 synthetic be used in the rear axle. I use Lucas 75w-140 synthetic in both axles personally, because I get it cheap and it does seem to perform well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuzmaster Posted June 5, 2017 Author Share Posted June 5, 2017 Well given that this will be a daily driver/hauler (mild) i will put 75W-90 in there. How much do Dana 44 and HP Dana 30 take in? 2.5 quarts I believe Also, is there any difference between XJ and MJ axles between in bushings? And also between 2wd and 4wd versions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 5, 2017 Share Posted June 5, 2017 Oil capacity isn't quite that much, I think count on 2 quarts each but you'll probably not need quite all of it. Fill until it's coming out the hole. XJ/MJ front axles take all the same bushings. I believed 2wd/4wd to be the same, but oddly there is different listings for them from some manufacturers. There's a link to the factory parts catalog in the write ups subforum, you could check it if you want to be sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuzmaster Posted June 12, 2017 Author Share Posted June 12, 2017 Welp, after a few questions and a bunch or research I have found all the parts for the rear end. I have been told that they will work together. Turns out Amazon had all of them for a pretty good price. Links below are what has been placed to order Carrier: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0078UB428/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Ring and pinion: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017BW4XC0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Spider gears: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EHN3CK6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Master install kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0078U8QY2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 All of these I got to make the Jeep a daily driver/very mild off roader. So the budget was kind of issue. Once they are installed, I will give an update. Anyone know how to install rear end gears? I have never done this and will probably have to take to a shop (4 wheel parts i think) to get them installed and that $330. If someone is willing to help in the Colorado Springs area, that would be great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuzmaster Posted June 16, 2017 Author Share Posted June 16, 2017 Have you guys had any experience with Revolutionary gear? I decided to have a shop do them and most try to stay away from those. Any reviews??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuzmaster Posted June 21, 2017 Author Share Posted June 21, 2017 Thought I would put an update. All of the parts for the rear end have arrived and look good. total came out to $475. Decided to let the pros do it. Got an appointment set up at Predator 4wd in Colorado Springs. Heard good things about them, but itll be $740.... thats ridiculous, but rather have it done right the first time. on the up side, amazon has a full steering kit. Only thing after that that will be needed is a track bar that ill get closer to the swap. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QJBL058/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I17TADFMUCFIDO&colid=21ZAOLBJQJKJA I do have a question. Upon startup on some days, the engine revs up really high. I don't know how high because there is no tach in this one. What causes that? It goes away after i switch into third and drive for awhile but until then it doesn't. Speaking of, how hard is it to install an aftermarket tach? or may be swap for a later model gauge cluster? I had to slow down on this project because my WJ needed new brakes and calipers. Fortunately a BFH helped out with the stuck rotors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuzmaster Posted June 30, 2017 Author Share Posted June 30, 2017 Welp, it is done. The rear end was put in. She can turn now. Onto the front axle. $740 to get it done, but it was at least at a reputable shop (Predator 4wd) and they had no issues getting it done. I still want to put in a tac, has anyone done that for an 87? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 30, 2017 Share Posted June 30, 2017 I still want to put in a tac, has anyone done that for an 87? Tach? Tachometer? If so, you can swap in a like year range full gauge cluster. If you go from dummy lights to gauges you need to change out the temp/pressure switches for like year senders, otherwise they're normally more or less plug and play. There's a few threads on it in tech that clear up exactly what changes and what doesn't, and what years work and don't. You also need the cluster to come from a 6cyl model, or on the earlier ones there is an adjustment on the tach to allow them to work with either a 4cy or 6cyl. I believe you can basically use any 6cyl cluster from 84-90 with minimal issues. 91+ (HO) clusters don't work as the fuel gauge functions backwards. But like I said, there's some good threads in MJ Tech that really clear it up, I'm not always great at remembering every little detail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuzmaster Posted July 10, 2017 Author Share Posted July 10, 2017 Cool thanks guys So I have found on craigslist a whole trany/tcase combo and the guy is asking $1k for it. It seems much, but is it worth it? Its basically everything with the external cylinder and internal slave, and everything to convert from auto to a manual. Not worried about that since mine is already a manual. So is it a good price? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuzmaster Posted July 19, 2017 Author Share Posted July 19, 2017 Decided to wait on the transmission swap till after fall school semester. The axle swap is almost complete. Steering is all attached, needs alighnment which I will do how the guy from Bleepin Jeep did. The only thing missing is the shift linkage. Decided to use Novaks SK2XC since Jeep OEM ones are kinda crappy. But there is an issue. Since this is originally a 2wd model, the holes weren't drilled for the mounting braket in the transmissioin tunnel. So the plan is to get the kit and mock it up and drill the mounting holes for that. In the meantime, whats a good price for a used AX15? I want to do the swap eventually, but in meantime its parts collecting time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuzmaster Posted July 20, 2017 Author Share Posted July 20, 2017 The swap is complete!! and she sits much better now, but there was an issue. the driveshaft from the donor vehicle is too long. There are 2 options the way I see it. 1. Get a small lift (puck lift for example) and use the original shaft 2. Take some measurements and get the shaft shortened. What do you guys think is a better idea??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuzmaster Posted July 24, 2017 Author Share Posted July 24, 2017 so i managed to score a dash out of a same era jeep wagoneer as my comanche. Taking it apart looks like I should be able to just swap the little odometer piece to match the existing mileage. It has connection to cable speedo too! the issue is that I pulled this out of a v6 looking engine. Will I need to recalibrate the speedo because of that? I need to do it anyway since the I haven't changed it after the higher ring and pinion. Next would be to get a oil pressure sending unit, thermostat and something else I'm sure. Other news is the springs I pulled off of the donor axle jeep are about same height. This makes the truck sit about 1.5" lower on the front. So after confirming this I will order a leveling kit. Sucks cause I just put the springs in, but I don't have a large load in the back that often, so its a good idea to level it. Any idea where to get a good metal level kit? I have a Rough Country one on my WJ and idk if they are really that good as a poly. Also, the driveshaft (stock) is too long. Can't even install it with full yoke copressed. So after the leveling kit, that will get shortened and put in. Just gotta wait till next paycheck lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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