Gubachoo Posted November 2, 2023 Share Posted November 2, 2023 On 10/31/2023 at 2:08 PM, gogmorgo said: Studs generally don’t require torquing. There are some exceptions of course, and you usually want to run the stud all the way in for maximum thread engagement, but for the most part it’s really just a through-bolt with a nut on both ends. The inside nut in this case just happens to be shaped like an engine block. But as long as the outer nut is torqued correctly it will provide adequate “bolt” tension. Gotcha, makes sense. The new parts said 13n/m for the stud and 10n/m for the sensor. My knock still reads higher than it should, albeit far lower than it was. Time to check some timing things I suppose. It's a brand new 4.7 from CME and my knocks were high before the swap. I thought since the old engine was over 400,000 it made sense it would be a little loose but obviously there is another issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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