hillbilly51 Posted October 3, 2014 Share Posted October 3, 2014 I recently built and installed a new transfer case shifter linkage in my 88 Jeep Comanche Chief. It's much more simple than the factory set up and works great. I have details if anyone wants to build one. steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 I'd love to see it in a DIY topic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hillbilly51 Posted October 4, 2014 Author Share Posted October 4, 2014 OK I've got a spare NP-231 Case, so it made it a lot easier to modify the existing shifter arm that goes on the Transfer Case and check it's movement. You will notice that I swapped ends, cut and bent the Arm and then filled the created gap with weld metal. I also relocated the hole in this arm to give the hole centers a 2" cord length thru the arc as they travel from 4 Wheel high to 4 Wheel low. This is the same as the Floor shifter in the cab...2" arc length thru the travel from 4W high to 4W low. That means that the movement of the flooor shifter will give a corresponding and equal amount of travel on the transfer case arm. In plainer terms, the transfer case arm moves the same distance as the floor shifter arm as you shift thru the gears. Next was to modify the existing linkage to attach the Transfer Case Arm to the Floor Shifter Arm. Using the existing shifter linkage, I shortened the linkage and (cold) bent a new 90 degree turn. I then welded a 3" piece of 3/8" all thread rod onto the end. I used the existing adjustment block by drilling the existing hole out to 3/8" diameter, sliding the all thread thru and using 3/8" nuts to secure the rod after final adjustment. I used the existing plastic bushing that was already in the cab shifter arm. All the bushings are the same size, and can be removed without damage by heating slightly with a heat gun and then prizing out with a flat screwdriver.....You'll have a couple of spares left over. I tried to drill and counter sink the new hole in the T.C. shifter arm and install a bushing but the metal is hard, and I burned up all my 7/6" drill bits before I quit and settled for a 3/8" clearance hole for the linkage. It's a metal to metal fit, but I figure it will take me a long, long time to wear the linkage out. The Final Product: On final adjustment, I made sure that all of the slack in the linkage was adjusted outward to assure full travel into 4 wheel low. The detent springs on these NP231 Transfer cases are pretty strong, so it's not hard to feel it go into gear when shifting gears. It's a positive shift. The gear selector works well and is correct, and the dash light functions properly Hope this helps I'm posting this information to help individuals build a shifter for their own truck, and not for commercial use. Commercial use is not intended or allowed. steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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