sinkrun Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 Looking for the sheet metal from a rust free truck need the wheel opening passenger side. Need shipped to Pa 16680. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 If it's any help - the rear top section from XJ's make a do-able replacement. I've done one, just don't have the pictures loaded up yet. Plus.......No MJ was harmed with this process :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinkrun Posted May 20, 2012 Author Share Posted May 20, 2012 Can you tell me if a 2 door cherokee is the exact same opening or does it require more fitting? Oh and good to see ya around :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 I'll clear this up a little........ The top section (which is what rots out mostly on our beloved MJ's) of any XY will provide the double bend for the OEM wheel flair. 2 door or 4 door XJ will work. But......the entire wheel flair from an XJ is shorter in height (length) than a MJ wheel flair. That's why an XJ rear wheel flair will not replace a MJ rear wheel flair. By cutting out the top section from a XJ donor, getting good steel, and using a crimping tool, you can "graft" the section on the the outer wall of the bed, thus, replacing the rotted out section. Little Bondo over the seam (after welding it on of course) and the mounting holes can be re-drilled, 'almost' instant patch panel. I had pictures of the bed that I re-built, but ........HD crash last October......pictures lost :wall: And yes, I drop in here now and then.........Keeping an eye on you guys....... :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinkrun Posted May 21, 2012 Author Share Posted May 21, 2012 Ok thats good I will hit the PNP with a sawzall and try to find a rust free cherokee. I just bought a Mig with gas and am determined to learn to weld this myself I have done some tin and bondo work before but with just a rivet gun. Also have all the spray equipment now. I have a new factory bedside but of course its the wrong side and even though I have been REALLY close to cutting it up I just can't do it. The truck had a new bedside put on the one side in the late 90`s and was never in salt after so one sides perfect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 Just a hint on the Mig welding........ Use .023 wire, and turn the gas up to 22-25psi, and you'll have fewer burn thoughts on that 22guage metal. Yea, I wouldn't use a good replacement side for just this 'small' piece, the P&P would only charge $3-$5 for a piece that big around here, if not, just 'take-it' price. If you can/want, pick up one of these, it will give you the crimp needed and the holes for plug welding - http://www.harborfreight.com/air-punch- ... -1110.html have fun :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinkrun Posted May 21, 2012 Author Share Posted May 21, 2012 I was looking the exact one few weeks ago thought thats what I needed. How hard is it going to be to find or fab new flare brackets? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 the Flair brackets, Not hard at all....... I took a '94 XJ last October, front end totaled, Pushed the radiator support back out 8", put a new front clip on, newer hood, and had to make the flair brackets from scratch, the old ones were not ever there from the rust, just snapped off the bolts, to get the flairs off. I made cardboard 'templates' from the flairs, (Front, center top, rear) traced them out on some 16 gauge sheet metal I had, cut the sheet metal with air nippers, drilled out the holes, inserted #10x32 (1" long) SS machine screws (pan heads) tack welded the heads to the sheet metal, used some "flange" SS nuts, and done. In fact, I messed up and made 2 sets of right fronts. or left rears, and had to make the correct combo to get it done :nuts: I wonder why the factory didn't use all SS screws and use Anti-seize when they made these darn things in the first place :hmm: Would have make our life much easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinkrun Posted June 4, 2012 Author Share Posted June 4, 2012 Ok the greed at local yards around here is crazy so far the one PNP wanted 60.00 for the metal and the other wanted $80.00 and he would torch it out would not remove it any other way. He said what would you want to pay I said $25.00 he threw a fit and said it would cost more than that in gas to cut it off. I am REALLY getting sick and tired of trying to keep this truck going its not just today its all the time trying and begging to get parts. I am really considering selling it :fs1: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Yea, it sounds like your local JY's are really trying to hit you hard on prices, I bet they don't pay nothing for junkers to start with. I've got a '96 XJ that I'm ready to scrap out, I've picked it clean now, and only have the shell left, I'll take a look at the rear upper sections of the wheel wells and see if there in good shape, you do only need the upper sections.......correct?? Both sides?? I'll zip wheel the sheet metal off, I don't think a torch is the right way to go with this, and let you know, if you want pictures first, fine. Make me an offer, and there your. Too bad I'm not scheduled in your neck of the woods any time soon, unless your not too far from Corning, I was just down that way 2 weeks ago, I'll be back there in about 3-4 weeks, I was in Erie last Friday, but this small items should be a cheap shipping cost. And......unless I'm wrong........I think there is a penalty around here for EVEN thinking about selling your MJ :eek: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinkrun Posted June 5, 2012 Author Share Posted June 5, 2012 Thanks for the offer you will most likely have to ship it I am near Penn State in the middle of the state just need the Passenger side and its worse than I thought so it would need to be a 2 door to cover it all. I will post a pic of the area I have not cut or ground it yet though. The girl told me $10.00 at the PNP and when I got there the guy said $60.00. Also need a good track bar mount also if you want to part with it. Also these are the cheapest yards around that I went to. I am thinking theres not much demand for cherokee quaters since every one there still had them but not much anything else on them just empty shells. You think they would be happy to sell some stuff. One yard I used for years that was great on prices I called first for this and hes closing the railroad land he leased ran and they will not renew he actually checked a few he had but they were allready trashed by the fork truk moving them around for the crusher. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Yea, post up a picture of what damage you have, and I'll see if this 4 door XJ will work for you. If yours is rotted really bad, like near the bottom of the wheel well, you could always "piece" a couple of sections from the XJ to make it work ;) I know, having the full MJ wheel well would make it simpler, but, hey, there 25 year old trucks, ya know. And shipping would not be a problem. I just get around a lot, thought if you knew someone in one of the town's I hit, I could just drop it off for you. I haven't been down your way since December '10. And besides Erie, no other jobs planned in PA this year.........so far......I was in Danville (Lewisburg) just a year ago :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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