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"Hate-E-Seven" Build


Abyx
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First bumper made. I kept it simple because 1. I'm not gonna be pulling off of it, so I just tied into the stock bumper brackets that were sticking out. 2. It's going to be expanded on in the future.

 

I used 3/16" 2x4" Box tube, got it from Fazio's in Wall, 80$ for 12'...I'd say that's a pretty damn good price. I had the 3/16" angle laying around, it's 3x3" for those curious. I used grade 5 bolts, because again...not pulling off of it, and grade 5 is more inclined to bend rather than sheer which grade 8 does. Coated it with Rustoleum(crap) self etching primer and gloss black. I cut and tapped threads for the bumper flap(you can't really see it, it goes inbetween the two mounts and is off of a stock cherokee bumper), I also cut and tapped threads for the license plate light and mounting points. 1/4" threads. :thumbsup:

 

Obligatory Weld shot(I'm not a professional) -

 

Brackets -

 

Bumper! -

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Haha ill probably be scrapping there tomorrow! I'm outta Jackson. Are you in what, Wrightstown?

 

 

Made the maiden Voyage today! She needs a tune up real bad but she'll still do 80 down the highway with no problems. I love the way this truck drives and handles. Super quiet on the inside, tight steering, ect. Really happy with my new truck. :)

 

 

The bad news, is I ran the VIN number today....apparently my truck at one point was a 4 cylinder. I also know that the rear axle was swaped. I also know that after changing the gear oil, something struck me a little funny about the ring gears...I think I might have 4.10s in the front and 3.07s in the rear. :(

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I'm not too familiar with Chesterfield, where's that by?

 

Finally got my keyboard working again; the brand new pack of batteries that I bought dead almost made me get a new keyboard. Damn things.

 

Anyway, truck has been driving great, so far I've taken it down to Camden to pickup materials for my father's Cabinet Shop(shameless plug), to Doylestown, PA to be dumped officially and to Longbranch, NJ. Truck drives great! I'm getting it inspected tomorrow and I'm going to be replacing the trans probably within the week....5th gear whines, 2nd and reverse pop out of gear at the worst times and my transfercase is grenaded, which explains the hole in the case I mentioned awhile back.

 

Good news is, I put my upgraded mirrors on it, and my jeep seems to be getting over 25 miles to the gallon; I think I'm crazy though because that can't be right. I gotta drive it some more before I can make that assumption.

 

Also, the VIN reader was wrong, I scraped the badly sprayed on paint off of the engine tag on the firewall and discovered it IS a factory 6, so my rears are matching. Either way I'm throwing a Dana 30 with 3.55s in it and some kind of upgraded rear with 3.55s in it when I do my lift - to match my 31s.

 

More updates to come.

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Oh okay, do you ever come around New Egypt? There's only two MJs on the road that I know of...Aaron's at No Excuses and another black 2.8l...is that you??

 

 

 

I decided to begin stripping my cherokee yesterday.

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3" Old Man Emu Coils

Black Diamond Front Shocks

Procomp Rear Shocks

Rough County Shackle

Dana 30 w/3.55 gear ratio and solid axle shafts

AX-15 w/ External Slave

NP231

New clutch/pressure plate

Stock tow hooks(way better than nothing)

OEM cat welded to Cherrybomb Turbo

97+ Brake booster and MC

 

Some other misc crap. It was a long day.

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Permanent fix to my broken threads - WELD NUTS! :jump:

 

2$ a pop, super easy to install..drill out the old weld nut to 5/8", insert new weldnut, weld all the way round, paint, done!

 

The ones I got were for half inch bolts simply because that's what was on hand..you can get them in different sizes from Fastenall.

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  • 2 weeks later...

 

Gauge cluster! The tachometer is off by approx 300rpms; and the seller misinformed me as it being an 88, when it's actually any 86; awesome. No adjustable tach here. All the other gauges work(now), though.

 

I tried rolling back the miles to match that of my other cluster; but I failed miserably when I discovered that this cluster is an 86, and therefor not easily change-able, without removing the speedometer plate which involves removing the needle. Not gonna bother; so instead I just did this. :D

 

 

Rotella change!! Runs real nice on this stuff compared to the cheap oil I had in it before.

 

 

Chillin' at Collier's Mills, local preserved land park, anyone local to central Jersey will probably recognize this area.

 

 

Doin' work and hauling a 500 pound load of scrap.

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Gauge cluster! The tachometer is off by approx 300rpms; and the seller misinformed me as it being an 88, when it's actually any 86; awesome. No adjustable tach here. All the other gauges work(now), though.

 

I assume you mean 87 since you renamed your thread to "Hate-E-Seven" (doesn't have the same ring to it, though). No shortbeds in 86 - first year for those was 87. Truck looks great, though. Glad you stuck with it.

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I assume you mean 87 since you renamed your thread to "Hate-E-Seven" (doesn't have the same ring to it, though). No shortbeds in 86 - first year for those was 87. Truck looks great, though. Glad you stuck with it.

 

No, I mean 86. The truck is an 87, the actual gauge cluster I purchased here on the forum from another member was labeled as being out of an 88. However the older style steel cup speedo cable input leads me to believe that it's for an 86 considering the speedometer cable that I now have for it - is from an 86 2.8l Longbed. Which would probably explain why my tach reads wrong; however my tach is not adjustable unfortunately, so I'm stuck with a 1000rpm idle. :D :D

 

Thank you, though! I'm happy I stuck with it as well; I can't begin to describe how much more I like it compared to my old cherokee.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Did the Closed to Open cooling system swap today; I'm not quite positive what I've been reading about with people saying that the closed system runs hotter....no it doesn't; not on my truck. :hmm:

 

Overall I'm really happy about having the open system again...I flushed out my 'open' radiator really good, all my hoses...found my lower radiator hose didn't have a coil spring in it to prevent collapse - I had one laying around so I installed that along with the proper heater valve. It's much cleaner under the hood; I'll even be making up some brackets to hold up my HO overflow bottle in a fairly clean set up.

 

Few things to tackle now;

 

My original closed radiator was pulled because I thought the bottom cooling row was rotting through...as it turns out; it's not - the bottom support brace is rotten, but it doesn't affect the use of the radiator. The radiator is also a full brass set up in 'GREAT' condition aside from the bottom rust.

 

The 'new' Open radiator is out of my cherokee, good internally, good externally..however it doesn't have a place for the thermal switch; is the plastic variant and it rattles in the shroud...not too happy about that.

 

So I'm trying to weigh my options...the swap today cost me nothing but time and 20$ for coolant and distilled water....do I drop another couple bucks on an alternative fill cap and splice that in and use the brass radiator(simply because...and I wouldn't have to do any wiring), OR do I just use my(perfectly fine) plastic radiator, splice the fan onto a switch and call it a day?

 

Hmm decisions... Not positive on what I want to do. The brass sure is nice to have; but it sure isn't 'necessary'..

 

:wrench:

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  • 3 weeks later...

Frame cracked at the steering box. Welded it as best as I could after drilling out the cracks and hitting it with a hammer. Then I plated it with 3/16 steel on both sides. It's hard getting a good bead on this sheet metal they call a frame. At least they hold.

 

 

 

Steering is a whole lot more responsive now! :thumbsup:

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  • 4 weeks later...

Picked up a 29 spline Chrysler 8.25 with 3.55 gears and 80k miles at the local swap meet for 75$. Went down to Blacey's and pulled an entire disk brake set up off of a Grand Cherokee with a D35...I wallowed out the centering hole on the backing plates and the bolt holes with a file and they bolted right on.

 

Cut off the spring perches and re-welded them, cut off the shock mounts and made some new mounts out of em.

 

I have a set of 6.5 coils in the mail, along with a set of CA drop brackets, and I scored an RE adjustable track bar + bracket at the swap meet...that'll all be going in once I get my parts

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  • 1 month later...

Old Axle:

 

New Axle:

 

Axle Bolted up:

Shock Mounts:

 

Baller:

 

35s:(Thanks to Globex for letting me use their machine to mount and balance em!! Yes I know I still need to buy new rims and come back and re-do it because my rims are actually 15x7.)

 

Ranger Bench Seats:(More Info viewtopic.php?f=2&t=36300&p=355348#p355348)

 

 

.....................Typical:

 

 

Oh I added a toolbox, ranger bed top protectors(love these things, very very functional add on if you use your truck as a pickup truck), and a CB radio. Rocking 3.55 gears in an AX-15 on 35s gets me to 85mph highway and approximately 20 Highway and 17/Town MPG.

 

The Comanche with stock control arms and drop brackets is the one that pulled the Comanche on 1-tons 9 miles out of the hole. Just sayin'.

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