Regger Posted January 21, 2007 Author Share Posted January 21, 2007 Well after all this great discussion, the pros and cons, and everyones thoughts and opinions on the subject.. I almost feel embarssed to say that my thoughts have changed yet again.. A buddy just phoned up and said he has all the materials to make an RE or Clayton Off-Road style radius arm setup.. Which means I might abandon my tie-rod idea for now, and go with this setup only because its there, and quicker and easier than my initial plan... But I don't want to let this idea/thread die... I'm still on the hunt for some actual numbers for comparison for Eagle. Cause I have another MJ project down the road that this might work on.. unless I find that the actual numbers really suck.. I guess this is why my friends say "You Think Too Much!".. which I probably do.. I think of all these different designs and ways, and it takes up more time than the actual build of my project... I guess thats the procrastinator in me... Thanks Ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jared Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 well definatly figure those numbers out man, i think it would be a cool build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 Much easier and It is a proven Idea. There are problem with the radias arm style suspension like, it needs limiting straps ( not brake lines or shocks), and they can have some strange handling quirks, especially in a situation where they are in a bind. Use quality parts, and you shouls have no issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrettM Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 there is a Toyota that was 3 linked (rear) by a reputable builder that used a big ol' TRE for the point of the wishbone. he wheels it plenty hard, and sounds like it's still working well. Still, I wouldn't do it. You just don't know what that joint can take, and it would really, really suck to have one break. I generally don't like being the guinea pig for new ideas when the result could be really bad. i found a picture, click for larger: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 I must admit, I didn't realize the TRE was That big. I'd be scared to try it myself, and would be worried to be behind or in front of it on the road till I saw it become proven, but we'll see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regger Posted January 24, 2007 Author Share Posted January 24, 2007 Well, you really have to think of it here... How often do you blow tie-rod ends off your steering linkage and you loose steering???... Not too likely... and if it does blow off... then that means you obviously didnt do any maintenance on your truck or else you would haev noticed it was badly worn.. Tie-rods are allowed to have a lot of wear without extreme failures... its only when they have extreme wear do catastrophic failures happen... So I'm more than confident in the strength.. mine, and Eagles concern at the moment is the amount of mis-alignment (angle) it has... When I thought I was going a different direction with my front setup and not going to use the tie-rods.. the new crossmember I was just giving for the raidus arm setup, won't work because with my dual t/case.. the front output is too far back, that on dropp it will smash into the lower control arm upper mount... So back to the drawing board... Ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regger Posted January 25, 2007 Author Share Posted January 25, 2007 Okay, I finally have some angle numbers for those tie-rods.. Now these aren't "official" numbers.. they are me using a precision protractor and comparing the angle.. Now there are two different sets of number here.. Because the ball does not have the same movement through out the joint... So for the angle along the centerline of the stud.. (parallel to the stud centerline) I was measuring about 25-30* per side!!!... Thats 50-60* total movement. For the angle perpendicular to the stud center line was 15-20* per side, or 30-40* total. Now those measurements are lock to lock.. So in real life, you probably won't see as much angularity as it all depends on how they are mounted, and how close the mounts are to the tie-rod housing.. But those are still pretty impressive numbers.. If you compare those numbers to the numbers I got from Pirate 4x4 from BillaVista's links article... http://www.pirate4x4.com/articles/tech/billavista/Links RE Large Bearing johnny joint - 23* Poly Performance Uni-ball - 32* Evolution Heim - 28* So worst case on the tie-rods, I highly doubt that they would be any less than the Re joints, or more likely the Evo Heims.. So I don't think the anglularity is an issue with these Tie-rods at all.. Well back to the shop I go, and see if I can fit these into one of the many different setups rattling around in my brain!! Ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted January 25, 2007 Share Posted January 25, 2007 My question is how would they work in a pair.... meaning uppers and lowers in arc travel? I think it would work, my question is how long would it last, and how would it flex? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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