Rokhound Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 Well I did again that darn Jeep bug keeps biting me and I like it. So I got my new toy home it is a 92 XJ with the HO 4.0 auto. I bought this thing cheap because of the head gasket being blown. It has white smoke and oil out the tailpipe so that is why I think it has a blown head gasket and that what the guy told me when I bought it. I did a search on the taking the head off and I have read my Haynes Manual and it seem to be fairly straight forward deal. So here is my question how hard is it going to be to pull the head off. Do I need to worry about the timing and that stuff Is there any thing else I need to make sure that I do to make this easer My plan is to have the head checked over buy the machine shop before I put it back together or is it going to be easier to but the 87 non HO 4.0 in. Any thoughts I just want to get this up and running so it can be sold so I have money to finish the MJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 The 4.0L is overhead valve, not overhead cam. The cam is in the block so the timing isn't affected by removing the head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rokhound Posted January 6, 2007 Author Share Posted January 6, 2007 thank you eagle I am not a motor guy i tryed this on a 305 and that did not go well but i thought i would try it agian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jared Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 but the head is pretty heavy being iron, not aluminum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinnaevd Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 did u check ur oil and coolant to make sure the gasket was gone now this is going to sound really dumb but.... i had the same thing (thought wise) on my manche. i thought the head gasket was gone cause of "oil" coming out of the tailpipe. turns out it was just condisation (due to the catyltic converter being brand new and never used) and carbon from inside my exhaust. i felt pretty stupid when it passed etest but hey...its all a learning process Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rokhound Posted January 7, 2007 Author Share Posted January 7, 2007 Well that the thing i have seen oil from a blowed head and this does not like like that but the white smoke and oil blow by i thought for sure that this was the issue. No new cat here so that is not the issue ether. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 Blue smoke = oil = rings &/or valve seals White "smoke" = steam = head gasket Do a compression test. When head gaskets fail, they don't blow out all cylinders. Usually they fail between two adjacent cylinders, which will result in a bunch of good compression readings and two adjacent cylinders with low readings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rokhound Posted January 7, 2007 Author Share Posted January 7, 2007 I was reading my Haynes for the correct torque spec and here is what it said: Tighten the cylinder head bolts in sequence according to the following procedure: Step A- tighten all bolts (1-14) in sequence to the specified torque for step A Step B- Tighten all bolts in sequence to the specified torque for step B Step C- Tighten all bolts except # to the 11 to the specified torque for step C Caution: in step C, bolt #11 is tightened to a lower torque than the rest of the bolts do not over tighten it. Tighten #11 to the specified torque Torque Specification Ft-Lbs Step A – 22 Step B – 45 Step C – Bolt #11 is 100 All other bolts 110 Ok so here is my question for you guys: 1. Were is #11 bolt there pics show it to be the front driver side bolt is this correct?? 2. Also what is the deal with adding Loctite to this bolt and not the other bolts?? Again this is what the Haynes is telling me to do is this correct or should there be Loctite on all the bolts?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted January 8, 2007 Share Posted January 8, 2007 Ok so here is my question for you guys:1. Were is #11 bolt there pics show it to be the front driver side bolt is this correct?? 2. Also what is the deal with adding Loctite to this bolt and not the other bolts?? Again this is what the Haynes is telling me to do is this correct or should there be Loctite on all the bolts?? That bolt goes into a water jacket and doesn't have threads for the full length of the bolt. The Loctite is to seal it so coolant won't seep up the threads. In the old days they had us use Permatex on that one. The reduced torque is so you won't strip the threads in the block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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