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Head Gasket???


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Well I did again that darn Jeep bug keeps biting me and I like it. So I got my new toy home it is a 92 XJ with the HO 4.0 auto. I bought this thing cheap because of the head gasket being blown. It has white smoke and oil out the tailpipe so that is why I think it has a blown head gasket and that what the guy told me when I bought it. I did a search on the taking the head off and I have read my Haynes Manual and it seem to be fairly straight forward deal.

 

So here is my question how hard is it going to be to pull the head off.

Do I need to worry about the timing and that stuff

Is there any thing else I need to make sure that I do to make this easer

 

My plan is to have the head checked over buy the machine shop before I put it back together or is it going to be easier to but the 87 non HO 4.0 in. Any thoughts I just want to get this up and running so it can be sold so I have money to finish the MJ

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did u check ur oil and coolant to make sure the gasket was gone

 

now this is going to sound really dumb but....

 

i had the same thing (thought wise) on my manche. i thought the head gasket was gone cause of "oil" coming out of the tailpipe. turns out it was just condisation (due to the catyltic converter being brand new and never used) and carbon from inside my exhaust. i felt pretty stupid when it passed etest but hey...its all a learning process

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Blue smoke = oil = rings &/or valve seals

 

White "smoke" = steam = head gasket

 

Do a compression test. When head gaskets fail, they don't blow out all cylinders. Usually they fail between two adjacent cylinders, which will result in a bunch of good compression readings and two adjacent cylinders with low readings.

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I was reading my Haynes for the correct torque spec and here is what it said:

 

Tighten the cylinder head bolts in sequence according to the following procedure:

 

Step A- tighten all bolts (1-14) in sequence to the specified torque for step A

Step B- Tighten all bolts in sequence to the specified torque for step B

Step C- Tighten all bolts except # to the 11 to the specified torque for step C

 

Caution: in step C, bolt #11 is tightened to a lower torque than the rest of the bolts do not over tighten it. Tighten #11 to the specified torque

 

Torque Specification Ft-Lbs

Step A – 22

Step B – 45

Step C –

Bolt #11 is 100

All other bolts 110

 

Ok so here is my question for you guys:

1. Were is #11 bolt there pics show it to be the front driver side bolt is this correct??

2. Also what is the deal with adding Loctite to this bolt and not the other bolts?? Again this is what the Haynes is telling me to do is this correct or should there be Loctite on all the bolts??

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Ok so here is my question for you guys:

1. Were is #11 bolt there pics show it to be the front driver side bolt is this correct??

2. Also what is the deal with adding Loctite to this bolt and not the other bolts?? Again this is what the Haynes is telling me to do is this correct or should there be Loctite on all the bolts??

That bolt goes into a water jacket and doesn't have threads for the full length of the bolt. The Loctite is to seal it so coolant won't seep up the threads. In the old days they had us use Permatex on that one. The reduced torque is so you won't strip the threads in the block.

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