tj21 Posted May 29, 2011 Share Posted May 29, 2011 '86 Comanche manual transmission. The clutch has been fine until today. It is very difficult to shift while the engine is on. I have to force it into each gear. Grinding when forcing into reverse. With engine off, while in gear and clutch depressed the truck doesn't roll downhill like it should. When I move it to neutral it rolls normal. Do I need a new clutch? Pedal adjustment? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted May 29, 2011 Share Posted May 29, 2011 Did you check your fluid level? Look for leaks, especially from the clutch master cylinder, running down the inside of the firewall and onto the fuse panel. There is no adjustment on hydraulic clutch. Also they might need bleeding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted May 29, 2011 Share Posted May 29, 2011 Just a nit pick here, but it sounds more like the clutch is not DISengaging. Agree with ^^^^ that it's most likely a hydraulic problem. Hydraulic clutch should not need to be bled unless work has been done on the clutch. Leak or bad cylinder (master or slave) is most likely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tj21 Posted June 27, 2011 Author Share Posted June 27, 2011 My clutch problem has been intermittent. I've discovered that when the pedal gets sloppy, the clutch won't DISengage. If I play with it a while (kicking it hard), it goes back to normal. I'd assume you're right, its either the master or slave. How do I tell which one? Or do I start with the slave since its cheaper? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche12 Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 My clutch problem has been intermittent. I've discovered that when the pedal gets sloppy, the clutch won't DISengage. If I play with it a while (kicking it hard), it goes back to normal. I'd assume you're right, its either the master or slave. How do I tell which one? Or do I start with the slave since its cheaper? i would start with master. the master is one with resvior tank of brake fluid in it. its right next the brake master cylinder on firewall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Is the bell housing leaking anything? If it is, you need yourself a slave... Top off the master is you need to, and it should make itself real evident. Also check the firewall above your fuse box in the interior for moisture from the clutch master leaking into the drivers compartment. That would tell you the master is bad. Check those, and get back to us. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tj21 Posted October 4, 2012 Author Share Posted October 4, 2012 Bringing my own dead thread back to life. I dealt with the clutch not disengaging intermittently for over a year (I don't drive her much), but it finally permanently seized while I was on the other side of the mountain, several hours away. I made it home, and replaced both the master and slave cylinders. Its was the master that was seized. I should have fixed this a long time ago, it wasn't hard at all. She's shifting smooth now, thanks for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now