dakal Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 i am compiling my tech posts of my build into the project posts where it should be. stay tuned Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dakal Posted May 5, 2010 Author Share Posted May 5, 2010 i wanted to make my pedals more comfortable for my feet, so i wanted a dead pedal so this is it. i need to install the other pedals before choosing the proper placement i got the brace from the back, underneath the bed. don't remember where though. 1a Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dakal Posted May 5, 2010 Author Share Posted May 5, 2010 What are you going to do with the parking brake? Or are you just leaving it out? Just curious! Nice work! thanks. i have removed the parking brake. some other idea not completely formed. Looks good, the only thing Id be wondering is about the traction on them will be like, especially when wet thanks. you will see when they are done. the allen screw should stick up enough to stop a slidding foot. the petals will be almost even, the gas petal will be lower. you know , trial & error. i have the finish product in my head. 1b Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dakal Posted May 5, 2010 Author Share Posted May 5, 2010 ever wonder what the bolt looks like for the wind wings. mine was broken. one bolt is broken. other bolt is the new one. you can see how the factory bent the bolt over on one. the other one is mine with the new one pressed in. the factory ground the glass to have it fit with the bolt sticking up. 2a Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dakal Posted May 5, 2010 Author Share Posted May 5, 2010 the window almost fell out. just tap on the metal piece and away it goes. they are stainless steel carriage bolts that i ground down. 2b Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dakal Posted May 5, 2010 Author Share Posted May 5, 2010 i never liked the linkage in my cherokee or mj. a couple weeks ago i saw bs or bk writeup. after looking at his pics and my linkage, i realized it would work if i modified his idea. a couple of pics of my linkage. after taking off all the linkage, this is what it looks like. also in the bottom left corner is my new linkage. this pic shows the space with the complete linkage removed. the reason i changed the size of his linkage is because of the room where it goes. i also i thought i could make it smaller so it would fit closer to the transfer case and away from the driveshaft. i bought hardened 1/4/28 atr x 3' allthread, two nuts and two 1/4 " yoke ends, two clevis pins, and two hairpin cotters the total cost for these items, $14.87. :banana: the first one i cut worked, but reefing on it i later noticed i bent it. also i added a 1/4 " to it. this way it would go through the threads into the u of the yoke. also in this picture you can see the measurement from hole to hole on the yokes. this is a picture of where the shifter handle goes through the transmission tunnel. at the end is the lever that attaches to the linkage. the pin is held by a snap ring. . these are three levers i got at the jy. i got my levers from 80's or 90's chev products. i couldn't find the lever bk noted, but i found a short and longer one. after looking at my setup i thought i could use the shorter one. i think the hole is 7/16, so out with the welder. i put a bolt that just fit, welded it up, then out with the grinder. you can see in the pic the levers are mostly flat. this is a pic of the lever from the shifter, the shorter one i ended up using and the old lever. the reason you can't use your old one, the lever needs to point up. like this pic. at this point i have drilled 17/32 holes, one up from 1/4, off center, as noted in picture. this next pic shows the holes better. plus i have the shift lever mechanism pit together. . another picture of the shift linkage.this pic shows the new linkage and the shifter lever completely installed. if you notice the two levers are not in line. rain was coming so i thought i would finish the pic. after it drys up, i will remove the transfer case lever, heat it up and bend it to line up. quench it of course. if i need to readjust the linkage i will do it. but it works fine now, however, for long term usage it would work better lined up. i just bent it. it will be more in line now. Image Not Found. i just installed the bent linkage. either i bent it to far or i shouldn't of bent it. so, i'm going to straighten it and call it good. as bkf did, i would get one longer than you need and cut out the hole and redrill your new hole. someday when i go back to the worlds most expensive jy, i will look for one. until then :waving: two pics of the shift lever with the transmission shifter. i cut the shifter lever just after the bend so i could use my own knob. the shifter knobs are made from zebra wood from africa. a friend of mine thats retired makes them. a not so shameless plug. if you would like him to made you a knob,[ he's reasonable], his email is frontyardforest@epud.net and his name is mark. a pic of the shifter knob from my cherokee transmission. if someone bought my brand new, cut to fit carpet from my mj, for $45.00, i would include the shifter knob. i'm going with stuff from second skin audio for the floor. this item is very hard to store!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! can't drive the mj until my knee heals more, but with all the shifting i did with the lever it works great. took the mj 4wheeling today the linkage worked great the lever moved about 1/16in. no biggie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dakal Posted May 5, 2010 Author Share Posted May 5, 2010 i am rewiring my mj :no: four years ago i bought a ron francis wiring harness with some extras. the cost was $369 or $ 389. it was for a cherokee i had. but this mj came up for sale with lots of extras so i bought it. now i'm on to the rewiring. pete wanted me to take pics and tell what i'm doing. i will be adding to this as time goes on. i debated how to start,but i finally ended up taking out the fuse panel an related wiring. i was careful stay away from the computer stuff for now. also cleaning up the wiring in the engine compartment has proven to be a chore. will take a picture soon. i had also purchased gauges, so will add those later. right now is getting the lites and engine running. took the heater out, it didn't work well. will add a great heater i found, not mohave? . also later. this will be my only vehicle, i love to go prerunning different races and just in the desert. so all my up grades are geared that way. a friend of mine is welding up a gas tank from [2] 15.5 gallon stainless steel beer kegs. it will be about 30 gallons. i have bought everything to change tanks but the fuel pump. thought i would post a pic of the progress. front lights done but turn signals. back lights labeled on the left side. ign ,turn signals, an a bunch of wires. lots of wires attached to panel. figured out computer, and computer check wires. i am drawing specific diagrams of the different systems. :banana: 3a Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dakal Posted May 5, 2010 Author Share Posted May 5, 2010 the fuse panel includes all the wiring ,panel instructions, fireresistant, you won't find wire like this stuff. i have looked for years in stores. he has it made up. the price as of two days ago for complete kit is $429.00 now. you can see its colorcoated, numbered and the panel is color matched to the wire. they will make you a kit for the price. my cherokee was a 2.8 carb that i changed to a 3.1. yes i learn the hard way. you can now see why i jumped on the mj. so the wire kit was made for that, 2.8. has caused some :rant: :???: , but they have great service. they are going to get tired of my phone calls. a friend of mine who builds circle track cars showed me the difference between painless and wireworks stuff. there is a huge difference in quality. get what you pay for :yes: i bought all electric gauges. summit racing, autometer hotrod pack. i friend gave me a autometer tach. electric speedo comes with the pack. so that way i'm set. i have already cut the dash to accept 1/4 smoked plastic cut to fit around the opening where everything is. if i don't screw up the hole cutting it will look great. yes i have hole saws. 3b Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dakal Posted May 5, 2010 Author Share Posted May 5, 2010 i have the dash out to make the plate for the new gauges. also i wanted to see what the firewall looks like. and lastly, to see what could possibly cause leaks. i am going to take pictures of the firewall so everyone can see where the possibilities lie for leaks. i still have the the water and vacuum gauges hooked up, and they are turned upside down next to the fuse panel. when i hook up the gauge wiring supplied by wireworks, and make the gauge panel, then it will look right. i have called ron francis with questions and they have been great. each wire is separate so i can run it how and where i want. :yes: when i am done everything on the truck will be controlled by its own dedicated toggle switch. on its own fuse. no more combination fuse crap. :agree: just had cataract surgery in one eye yesterday. in three weeks will have the other eye done. so i will work on the truck as i can. 3c Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dakal Posted May 5, 2010 Author Share Posted May 5, 2010 update: tried the lights today. tail,brake,parking lights work. the toggle switches worked. :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: turn signals are hooked up as per directions but a wire isn't right. the directions have a mistake so will call ron francis monday. i hooked the front parking light to be a turn signal and that works. its great to be buttoning everything up. bulbs etc. with the motor; finishing the fuel pump wiring, then i think its good to go. i turned the key to find prestart and it cranks, thats good. when it runs, going to get rid of useless wires in engine bay, than will take photo of engine bay, passenger side. then its cleaning up the wires inside to look good. :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: i was really worried about all this redo working. so i'm glad for the progress. :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: 3d Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dakal Posted May 5, 2010 Author Share Posted May 5, 2010 eureka :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: turn signals work. in order for the new turn signal indicators to work they said i needed to wire a three prong flasher up instead of the panels two prong. so i bought a brand new three prong flasher and a holder. wired them up. when the flashers didn't work, we decided to buy a new flasher. did so. installed it. still didn't work. when i called ron francis they told me how to dewire the three prong and use the two prong. thats when it worked. i bought one flasher from napa and one from kenecks? auto stores. what are the odds. so screw it. i'm leaving as is.update: tried the lights today. tail,brake,parking lights work. the toggle switches worked. :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: turn signals are hooked up as per directions but a wire isn't right. the directions have a mistake so will call ron francis monday. i hooked the front parking light to be a turn signal and that works. its great to be buttoning everything up. bulbs etc. with the motor; finishing the fuel pump wiring, then i think its good to go. i turned the key to find prestart and it cranks, thats good. when it runs, going to get rid of useless wires in engine bay, than will take photo of engine bay, passenger side. then its cleaning up the wires inside to look good. :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: i was really worried about all this redo working. so i'm glad for the progress. :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: my first complete wiring job and if works. RON FRANCIS IS THE MAN! :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: need to get a electric speedo wire next. tomorrow i cut the holes in my $61.00 piece of plastic for the dash. no mistakes 3e Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dakal Posted May 5, 2010 Author Share Posted May 5, 2010 this is a new installment of a old topic. today i sorted out a last problem with the new wiring and it started and runs :brows: greeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeat!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :brows: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :drool: :drool: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: two things i learned. remove the grounds from the engine block, thats next to the oil filter and clean them for good contact. the other, remove the plugs from the computer and spray contact cleaner on the male and female terminals. let soak, then take them in and out a few times. let dry throughly, then reinstall. as a maintenance tip this could or will help drivability problems :D 3f Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dakal Posted May 5, 2010 Author Share Posted May 5, 2010 this is a pic of the electric sender for the ax-15 which is for any trans from what i gather i am removing the senders and replacing them with the autometer senders. i will have a full gauge --- and the senders including the oil pressure sender in the classifies soon. 3g Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dakal Posted May 5, 2010 Author Share Posted May 5, 2010 i'll post a pic when i get there. i'm making petals, a dead petal, finishing the wiring clean up, changing the clutch(leaking) master, running wire for the new lights and fixing the windows at the same time. you know, easily bored, so this keeps me going forward. :bowdown: to myself. 3h Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wannabeMJ Posted May 8, 2010 Share Posted May 8, 2010 where did u by the yoke ends Ive been calling all over my town stores and they don't have anything ......... was it a specialty store or just your local hardware place? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dakal Posted May 8, 2010 Author Share Posted May 8, 2010 they are heat treated. they are from a hardware store. only nuts, bolts, rivets, stuff like that, drill bits etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wannabeMJ Posted May 8, 2010 Share Posted May 8, 2010 nothing here like that I might have to go to calgary to find some or order them on the net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dakal Posted May 9, 2010 Author Share Posted May 9, 2010 good luck. sometimes the simplest stuff ends up... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mule13 Posted May 9, 2010 Share Posted May 9, 2010 hey wanna be mj, If your asking where you can get the little u shaped ends he used for his linkage, i'd check the caterpillar dealer near you they usually have a used parts department and theres millions of those little things all over equipment. when i worked at the cat dealer i threw away a ton of those lol.any used equipment dealler would probably have them there used on hydraulic control levers . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wannabeMJ Posted May 9, 2010 Share Posted May 9, 2010 great thanks for the info I think our front loader is actually going to get fix there pretty soon if not Ill make it need to get fix :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dakal Posted November 11, 2011 Author Share Posted November 11, 2011 my 500 btu heater out of a step van is finally installed, and working. here are some pictures. it was a long process Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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