Going to replace the headgasket

[SuicidalPenguin]

It's time to fix all the problems with my truck while i got the time... only problem is I don't know where to start on the headgasket and just need to know exactly what i need to do it and what i need to remove.

 

I'm guessing somewhere along the lines of manifolds valve cover, rocker arms, pushrods(?), possibly the power steering(?). Anything i'm missing? Am i gonna need gaskets all around (valve cover, head, exhaust mani and intake mani)?

 

Thanks for any help guys, this Jeep gets worse and worse and i want to keep it alive.

~Kyle

 

PS. Also, since i need a new rad and such, would it be easier to do it at the same time? Anything else that probably should be checked or replaced while i'm in there?

[87manche]

ok, sounds like you're lining up a good bit of downtime.

If I were you this is how I would do it.

Take the grill and header panel out.

Pope the upper rad supprt and take out the rad.

Leave the gaping hole in the front, lots more room to work and get under the manifolds.

If you can get someone to help *highly recommended) pull the head with the manifolds attached. You'l have to pull the PS pump bracket I believe, as it's bolted to the intake.

Take the intake and exhaust manifold off while it's on the bench. You'll need new gaskets. While you're at it source some brass or bronze hardware for when you put it back together, they don't gall like the steel does.

Back on track, while you've got the head off you might want to consider aving some machine work done. At the very least have it check to make sure it's flat, and if not, have it decked. Inspect all the valve seats and guides while its out. Might even want to have it tanked.

I'd suggest you get some new headbolts, you're not techinically supposed to reuse those, as they stretch. At the very least paint the heads yellow or white, so you know they have to be replaced the nexttime anyone does this.

I'd also suggest putting the head back in the jeep with manifolds attached. Again, it's almost mandatory to have hepl here, as the head/manifold combo is quite weighty.

If you have to do it yourself you'll curse putting the manifolds on while in the truck.

[87manche]

I almost forgot, when you pull the pushrods keep them in order. It is very important that they go back in the same bore they came out of. Do the same for the rockers if you take them off to clean them.

[SuicidalPenguin]

If you can get someone to help, pull the head with the manifolds attached.

 

How many of the bolts (if any) do i need take out to lift the whole combo?

[pingpong]

Do yourself a favor Penguin, and buy yourself a chiltons, or haynes sevice manual.. it will answer all your questions, and give you the torque values needed to do the job properly

[SuicidalPenguin]

Do yourself a favor Penguin, and buy yourself a chiltons, or haynes sevice manual.

 

I had a Haynes that started falling apart awhile back, then I lost it. Is Chiltons any better of a manual, or are they pretty much the same?

[Oizarod115]

basically the same. bro has a haynes ive got a chiltons, thats just what came with our trucks.

 

a FSM would be SupERB. but those are expensive.

[SuicidalPenguin]

Well... bought another haynes. Looks like most everything is there, but i still might have a few questions later on. I have a radiator coming in that i pick up Monday so i'll start this whole project early next week.

[SuicidalPenguin]

Just need to know something for tomorrow when i hit the parts store. On the closed to open cooling swap, will the 89 premoulded rad hoses fit, or is the 92's i need or neither?

[87manche]

I don't believe that the inlet/outlet bungs changed. I think your existing hoses will work. You'll need the HO heater valve though, and might need to buy some heater core hose to redo that part when you eliminate the turtle.

[SuicidalPenguin]

thanks for all the help 87manche. All i got done today was draining and removing the radiator and i labelled and unplugged the majority of stuff. I also started to take off the valve cover, but found a single bolt way at the back that i can't get a socket or wrench onto. Any tricks? It's the closest one to the firewall.