wolfpackjeeper Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 OK, I know for some people their Comanche is a project, for others it is a beater, and for others still it is a DD. This will probably be more geared to the latter. I worked for about 4 years as a parts guy at Advance and got to know a few of their products. Today I got to get out and thoroughly wash the MJ. Got the Engine bay cleaned, the exterior washed, and also got a light polish and a good wax in. For the engine cleaning there are really only 2 options I consider and It really just depends on what is on sale. I either use Black Magic Engine Shine (the only BM product I will use, the rest are junk) or I use the 3m Citrus Gel spray. Both clean very well. Effectively you just warm the motor up and turn it off, then spray every nook and cranny repeatedly working around the bay. I usually go over everything till the can is empty. Then you let it sit for about 20 min. I take this time to wash the rest of the truck. Then you come back with normal hose water, no pressure, and rinse it all off. The cleaner will congeal up into a think goo where it pools, but rinse right off. Both work well on aluminum and plastic, but the BM stuff will shine up the plastic and rubber parts a bit more. I have used purple power and magic green, I just prefer these. I washed the exterior and I got to use a new product I have not messed with. It is the Turtle Wax clear nano polish. It is OK to use in bright sunlight and ok to touch plastics and rubber with. For those who do not know, most polishes will never come off trim, and are horrible to use in sunlight. I cannot say that it is a miracle product, but what it did do I liked. It was easy to apply and easy to remove. It left the paint much smoother to the touch and I give it thumbs up. Not as good as a spin polish or a claybar, but it took much less effort, and it did not mess up the trim. Last I finished up with Meguire's Gold Class Wax. Great stuff, I love it and always have. If your arms are tired after waxing you need to get a better wax. Wax should always be applied by hand BTW not with any mechanical contrivance. This stuff goes on smooth, buffs off easy and always leaves a good shine. The only wax I have used that I like more is the Tech Wax by the same company, but it is usually about 6 bucks more. It does smell good though. A few pictures of the results, I do not have the worlds best paint job. It looks like about mid grade MAACO with a touch of orange peel, but it is not a bad job either. and a link to the album in case anyone wants to see the rest of my pictures Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 Hey David, you have far too much spare time - USAF ain't workin' you hard enough. :D Can you come up north a bit and wax out my junk? Hasn't been done in three years or so. Heck, I'll even meet you half way. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolfpackjeeper Posted February 17, 2009 Author Share Posted February 17, 2009 I find that hard to believe, that truck is too clean and shiney. Waxing and polishing is easy, I got lots of stuff done yesterday. Even changed the brakes on my wifes blazer and organized the outbuilding. Polishing and waxing does not take too long, especially if you do not use turtle wax. That stuff will wear your arm off. I wish I had the stuff down here to clay bar it, but I did not want to go out to the store. The scheduling on my current school is pretty silly. I am getting ready to go in for the last day of Aircrew water survival today. It starts at 0730, but I will probably be done by 1100. Just have to do the parachute waterdrag, clip release, and I get to put on my g-suit, harness, vest, boots, helmet and facemask and prove that I can swim with all that junk on. Wednesday will be helicopter hoist, and land drag/ landing falls. Thursday is graduation, and riday will be Ejection seat training and a practice shot. fun stuff, look up "API Dunker" on youtube, did that friday, it was kind of like being paid to ride carnival rides that could kill you. Or being sloshed around upside down in a beercan underwater. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brdhntr Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 well i'm a professional detail and have been detailing for 25 years now. i've tried almost everything over the years. i prefer meguier's for the most part as well. their paint care system is excellent. i do use 3m foam pad glaze and rubbing compounds. your example of cleaning the engine is right on. no need to pressure wash. a helpfull tip, if you do get wax on trim (etc), try dawn dish soap. that strips wax. if it's on there good or on a textured surface, use wd40. that will usually take it off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolfpackjeeper Posted February 17, 2009 Author Share Posted February 17, 2009 yea, I wish I had access to a rotary and an indoor area to do a good polish, I think most of the peel would come out, I may try it by hand with an actual polishing or rubbing compound to see what happens. The thing that helped me the most was that I used to have a gloss black camaro. If you can learn to do black without screwing it up you are good to go. As far as the trim goes, usually I do not have a problem with wax, it sucks to get polish or rubbing compound on there though. And Hornbrod, if you thought I have too much time now. I graduate API on Friday and will have nothing but a checkin 3 days a week so they know I am alive. I probably will not class up to the wing for about 2 months. It kinda sucks, since I would rather be gettin' my learn on in flight school, but I am looking at it like paid vacation without having to take leave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brdhntr Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 to do it by hand, try 3m rubbing compound with elbow grease. go over it several times. i used to do detailing by hand only on rare, specialty, and show cars. it's alot of work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolfpackjeeper Posted February 17, 2009 Author Share Posted February 17, 2009 to do it by hand, try 3m rubbing compound with elbow grease. go over it several times. i used to do detailing by hand only on rare, specialty, and show cars. it's alot of work yea, my neighbor might have a random orbital buffer. I need to check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddzz1 Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 Hey David, :D Can you come up north a bit and wax out my junk? Hasn't been done in three years or so. Heck, I'll even meet you half way. :cheers: :eek: :no: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 Hey David, :D Can you come up north a bit and wax out my junk? Hasn't been done in three years or so. Heck, I'll even meet you half way. :cheers: :eek: :no: It's a joke Jim............ :D I just hate waxing stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbhill Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 ive used quick detailer to get compound/wax off of plastics n such. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddzz1 Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 If my paint looks like it baked in the Florida sun for 15 years and was never waxed what should I start with and how should I apply it? I have an angle grinder that I can put some buffing pads on. Can someone show me which pads I should use with each compound? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brdhntr Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 if the paint is that bad, you'll need to start with rubbing compound. i use 3m. it will take alot of muscle to get deep into the finish. the first coat is the hardest because it dries into the paint so fast. to help this, have a dish of water handy, wet down the applicator frequently. use the rubbing compound at least 2 times. then you can start with a semi abrasive cleaner wax, i use meguiar's. do a couple coats of this. then you move onto the protectant wax. again, i use meguiar's. the best bet is a carnuba wax to get the oils back into the finish. i'd do at least 2 coats. follow up with some more carnuba wax in a couple weeks. after that you can go to something like meguiar's gold class or nxt. you can use any brand you want. i recommend regular waxing every 3 months or so. as far as using buffing pads on an angle grinder, i wouldn't. angle grinders run at a very high rpm, some as high as 33000. when buffing, you want to run 5000 or less. i usually run 2000 or so. you will also wear out an angle grinder pretty quick. they are not intended to hold up to the kind of heat generated when buffing. i'd do it by hand or get a real buffer. if you do get a real buffer, practice on an area that doesn't matter. buffing properly takes practice and is an art. you need to know the best speed, pressure, and method for each job. you can do damage if you don't do it right. you can't mess up the finish as easily by hand. what pads to use depends on what method. on a really bad finish, i start with white wool, then yellow wool, and finish things up with a foam pad. i use 3m pads. to make the job easier, you can do some wet sanding to get rid of the faded paint and bad finish. wet sanding is really pretty easy to learn and takes alot of work out of the process. start with the highest wet sandpaper you can find. if you go to a body supply or even napa, you'll be able to find some finer paper. start fine and go from there as you learn. good luck, feel free to ask me if you have questions as you go. i'm happy to help. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddzz1 Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 brdhntr, thanks alot for all the info. When it come time to do it I'm sure I will have alot of suestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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