Dome light wiring?

[knightrider]

I recently bought this truck. I just want a winter beater. As for the interior dome lights, it HAD the two over the shoulder style.

They are removed and not present.

I bought some new dome lights I want to wire in. I understand the Pink wire is positive, and the blackw/white stripe is neg.

 

I get the lights to come on when I manually request them via the headlight switch.

 

When I do this it turns on my cluster lights. My concern. I can't get them to come on (dome lights) just opening the doors. I can unplug them and just turn on the cluster lamps by turning theheadlight switch back to the manual positoin but I have no reostat adjustment for the cluster.

 

Could this be a headlight switch going bad? What was the single black wire for in the plug of the original dome pigtail?

[Akula69]

I just fought this war :chillin:

 

The dome lights do work if you rotate the headlight switch to the furthest position (you feel the 'click' in the knob). THe other way they activate is through the door jamb spst button. The black wire with the white tracer goes from the chime module to the drivers side door jamb, then across the vehicle to the passenger side jamb. Both the radio fuse (15) and the dome fuse (10) must be present and not blown

 

The wire from the jamb buttons completes the ground for the lights. The reason it comes from the chime module first is so that the buzzer will sound when the key is left in the ignition when the door is opened.

 

Check the jamb spst buttons first. Usually on an older truck they will have become tarnished and non-conductive. When removing them do so carefully, as the wires are twisting inside the jamb when you turn the button. Once cleaned you can check them with an Ohm meter.

 

The connection from the harness to the jamb buttons are under the kick panels....sometimes PO disconnect them due to the dead short issues that run the battery down.

 

If they are clean and connected, check the 102 ground (bottom of dash inbetween E-brake release and steering column). If rusty, remove, clean and re-install.

 

Lastly, (assuming you still have the old style dome lights) if you have done all the above, and still get no dome lights, make sure the headlight switch is not rotated on, open the drivers door and check the plug on the dome light with a multimeter. center pin is positive 12V, left black wire with tracer is jamb ground wire. If you get +/- 12V across them, then the contacts in the dome light are bad.

 

The old dome lights have a rotating wheel that makes contact with one of two possible grounds inside the fixture. The 12V+ is always present, but the small metal roller is brass and will become non-conductive with age.

 

HTH, and let us know how it turns out! :cheers:

[knightrider]

I do have 12v with my test light to the pink center wire. Both with the switch rotated to the manual on position AND when I rotate it back to the standard on-with-door. I will buy new door pins, they are quite rusty, and cheap.

 

I'll double check the radio fuse....I don't currently have a radio installed, but that shouldn't matter, I did leave the fuse installed. Thanks for the help.

 

I'm using new cab lights, the originals were missing.

[knightrider]

Could this be related to the headlight switch

[Akula69]

Maybe, but unlikely.

 

Locate the courtesy light plug under the dash. On the driver's side it will be a black plug that has two black wires (one with tracer) on one side and a pink on the other. it had two contacts in the plug end. Plug the multimeter into those leads, and shut both doors. (stay inside !)

 

Rotate the headlight switch until it 'clicks', which is the position for ON for the dome lights. Read the meter - should show 12V+ Rotate the headlight switch again to OFF and read meter. Should be 0.0V. If those two tests are good, it's likely the switch is good. Pulling the headlight knob to ON will illuminate the headlights, but not check the dome lights.

 

Also - while you're under there searching for the courtesy plug, make sure the small ground wire is attached at the back of the headlight switch at bottom.

 

Let us know how it turns out.

[Akula69]

Just one more note - those jamb switch wires are really a biatch to get back into the jamb. :headpop: I suggest that you remove the jamb switch and then tie a string or small wire to the wires BEFORE you remove the kick panel seal and pull your 'fish' wire through with them.

 

Makes re-install a whole lot easier

[knightrider]

I have NO interior panels except door panels. I plan on sound deadening everything and undercoating.

 

As for the info, thanks guys, really helps to have knowledge on the vehicle.

[Akula69]

I do have 12v with my test light to the pink center wire. Both with the switch rotated to the manual on position AND when I rotate it back to the standard on-with-door.

 

Re-read your post and remembered that I forgot to tell you: when you test the courtesy light be sure you use the leads in the connector, not a body ground.

 

You are correct, the pink wires are hot all the time, its the ground that is connected/broken to complete the circuit. And, if you accidently leave the door adjar (and the jamb switchs are good), the courtesy light circuit will test good all the time.