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Control Arm Bushings


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I've done a search and can't seem to find the answer. A stock '89 MJ, 2WD, 2.5 4cylinder, upper and lower control arm bushings. At the local Parts Palace they only show the lower bushings (for both 2 and 4WD) and upper for 4WD only, my question, on the 2WD are the uppers and lowers the same bushing ? If not will the ones for the 4WD fit. Another question while I'm thinking about it, they also show 2 different bushings for the track bar, a 1 piece and a 2 piece, will either of them fit (I read somewhere here that the stock track bar has no serviceable parts). :dunno:

 

:bowdown: Thanks for all the help so far with my truck, it is an excellent running Jeep comanche.gif and the gas mileage is outstanding so far, back and forth to work (15 miles one way) for a week with some errand running as well on just less than a full tank jamminz.gif

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On the upper control arms where the front bushing mounts on the axle the bracket is different than the 4WD. I think it is the same bushing as the 4WD but the bracket that the bushing mounts in is not as strong. The FSM says to use some tool on the 2 wheel drive to prevent the bracket from bending when removing/replacing the bushing.

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Thanks maddzz, Ok, since I don't go puddle jumping with it and it is 2WD I can, in theory, use the 4WD upper bushings then. To prevent the bracket from bending I'd take the front off first (at the axle) since I don't have any special/fancy tool? I've never had anything with arms like this before (Jeep trademark perhaps) and want to do it as right as I can but leave it basically stock.

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The axle end bushing for the upper control arm mounts on the axle; not the upper control arm. If you look at an upper control arm that is nor in the truck you will see it only has one bushing. There is a bracket/loop welded to the axle that you have to press the bushing into/out of. It is the bracket/loop that is welded on the axle that the FSM says can bend easily on the 2WD.

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EDIT: forgot the 2WD axle doent have a diff housing.

 

Here is a good pic of the 2WD bushing mounts, scroll down to the 2nd pic.

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... s&start=75

 

If you scroll down here to where tha axle was just primed you can see it perfect with the bushings out.

 

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... s&start=60

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Yea maddzz, now we're cookin' :bowdown: , that's exactly what I have. I just want to get the right parts before I tear it down (with a real shade tree as a garage) I like to finish what I start the same day if at all possible.

 

Now for track bar answers ;) The axle is/has shifted to the right (passenger side) about an inch or so (can tell by the tires) and the sway bar on drivers side has been rubbing against the inner fender a little. I need to get this fixed soon (sway bar rubber to be replaced as well).

 

Oh, BTW, a mechanic at work looked at it today and said the ball joints and tie rods are ok, just all the rubber needs changing.

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I have heard of the sway bar links hitting on the coil springs, but i don't see how the sway bar could hit the fender.

 

Your trac bar may be loose or the frame bracket may be bad. I had alot of play in the steering wheel but only to the left. The whole time i was driving I was having to move the steering wheel to keep the jeep straight. Like my hand was constantly moving between the 12 oclock and the 9 oclock position. After tightening the castle nut on the trac bar at the frame bracket end I no longer have that play in the wheel.

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There isn't much if any play in the wheel, doesn't pull either way but to go straight the wheel has to be at the 10:30 to 11 oclock position. Front end clunks when hitting bumps at slow speed or turning corners and bump is hit (not noticeable at highway speed). Oh, one more item, turns tighter to the right.

 

Maybe inner fender was wrong description, down by frame rail where the sway bar link is mounted

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I forgot to mention the clunk. Mine started clunking real loud too. Go under the jeep and grab the trac bar up near the frame bracket and with the truck running have somebody turn the wheel from lock to lock. You will probally feel the trac bar jump/bind. I didnt think the castle nut was loose until we pulled the cotter pin and got a ratchet on it and started turning it. Def try tightening that nut first and see if that makes a big difference.

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In the "I forgot to mention" category :brows: .....I don't have power steering so running it wouldn't matter, talk about a "base" truck :nuts: no A/C either.

 

I'll grab my neighbor tomorrow and have him turn the wheel, thanks.

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