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I have been chasing down a front end death wobble for the last several months. I have replace almost all the steering and suspension components at this point. See list below for what has been replace, what has not. I have also listed the symptoms for easier reading. Here is the gist of the history of the problem. It started out as the typical hit a bump on the highway and the front end shakes mercilessly and your heart skips a beat. I took it to a driveline specialist and they replaced the track bar and the steering dampener. To no avail I might add, the rest of the work mentioned here I did myself. I took it to get the wheels balanced and the shop said my steering knuckle on the passenger side was bad. I replaced it, and when I took the old one back to napa, they said there was nothing wrong with it and it didn’t really need to be replaced, bummer, but I left the new one in anyway. As the months passed I kept replacing stuff and it would seem to get a little better but not go away. There has also been a consistent clunk whenever I back out of a tight parking space and cut the wheel tight. Then suddenly two weeks ago I couldn’t go over 30 mph or it would wobble and I didn’t even have to hit a bump. So I replaced the center link, tie rod end and lower control arms. This has still not fixed the problem! It is better, I can go 45 or 50 before hitting a bump and getting the wobble. I think I am getting there but I’m running out of parts to put on and with the new center link, tie rod end (at the wheel) and control arms I have a much worse crunching clunk when I turn the wheel tight left at back up or starting speeds and an occasional clunk when turning at higher speeds, this is new! :shake: I did make sure that all the tie rod ends center link connections were nice and straight when I put it all together. The center link and tie rod ends at the wheels appear to be ever so slightly tilted now that it is all settled in, but it is not by much. (Should I re straighten them?) Not sure what I should do next, besides a front end alignment. I’d like to wait until I’m done with new parts to do that. As I was typing this up it occurred to me that the crunch and clunk could be the steering knuckle on the driver’s side. How do I check that out without actually taking that part off? If I remove the wheel would I be able to tell if it is bad by wiggling it? What say ye, any advice as to the next step? Thanks in advance for an help and don't be afraid to tell me if I've done something stupid. It happens to the best of us. Symptoms at this point Slight crunching sound and clunks twice when turning the wheel to the left at start up speed. Wobble comes back at speeds over 45 when hitting a bump. Occasionally clunks when turning left at normal street speed Going downhill seems to make it more susceptible to the wobble New parts I put on myself (except track bar and dampener) Upper and lower ball joints Sway bar links Track bar Lower control arms Steering knuckle passenger side Center link Steering dampener Tie rod end at wheel Tie rod end at center link Power steering gear box Steering shaft from firewall to gear box Rebuilt steering column in cab Front brakes and rotors new last year Rear brakes new last year Parts left that look to be in good shape still Sway bar itself looks fine Pitman arm looks fine Coil springs, look fine Shocks, only 3 yrs. old and seem fine Tie rod bar itself, seems fine Drive axel, seems fine Parts that may have wear Upper control arms could use being replaced but I was nervous about getting the bushings out of the axel, I don’t have pneumatic tools Steering knuckle driver’s side not sure how to check if it’s stable
- 18 replies
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- death wobble
- front suspension
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It's me again...... This time I am replacing my upper and lower ball joints and the u-joints (while I'm in there anyway) at the wheel. I think I will have access to a lift to do the work, YESSSS!!! You are my guardian angels when it comes to repairs, so I look to you for guidance and any cautions or warnings to take for this job. I read an article on a 92 Cherokee installation of these parts and they mention that you have to get a special ball joint for the lowers. Here is the article quoted: "For the ball joints you want to be careful when getting them as autozone and advanced auto parts didn’t have their list made right when I got mine, when you get the ball joints the upper ball joint is listed correctly but when you get the lower ball joint make sure that the ball joint does not have the grease fitting in the top of it as it will not work due to the u-joints in the axel shaft sitting right above them you need the lower ball joints that do not have the grease fitting or the hole for one it has to have the sealed case." Here is the link to the article: http://www.automotiveforums.com/t723666-how_to_replace_ball_joints_axle_u_joints.html Lemme know if you think this article will hold true for my 88 MJ. Thanks in advance :bowdown: Marie
- 10 replies
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- ball joints
- u-joints
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