broythomas

I'm going to use the vacuum now, but does anyone know where to find a switch for the dash? I'm in seattle. Do any parts stores sell something that would work or do I get to search junkyards for an old eagle?

The solid axle would be more reliable, but that's more cost and work. So I figured I'd just hook up the aquarium pump and a switch since I have all this already and it will be a separate system and easier to trouble shoot if I have a problem and still be able to connect and disconnect. The hose size from the pump is even the right size.

I'm turning my 2wd into a 4wd with a 242 transfer case. I got an axle cheap that is in good shape, but it has the actuator and the 242 doesn't have vacuum lines to it. I was going to just stick some washers in there to permanently lock it, but would like to have 2 low. So I hooked up an old fish tank air pump to it and it shifts fine. (Not in the truck at the moment). The question is: Does the actuator need constant air pressure to stay locked or will it stay in position once it is shifted? Seems to need air through the other nozzle to disengage, but it isn't under much pressure or moving very fast when I turn it by hand. Thanks, brian

I forgot to mention I have a new master cylinder and was told it had a new booster when I bought it. Luckily, I noticed the lack of front brakes before backing up the truck so used the still functional e-brake which is tricky on a hill with a manual. So the garage is still standing. i honestly can't remember if I had rear brakes before the lift. I don't drive above 35 often so stopping has always been soft, but doable. I want to make it a daily driver though so obviously this needs to be fixed. The bar wasn't in the position you mentioned after lengthening the rod so I'll try again and set it just above parallel tomorrow.

My 1992 comanche 4.0 manual 2wd D44 rear has no braking at the rear. It's got a 3 inch lift so after doing a little research on here, I figured the rear proportioning valve was out of position or not working. I lengthened the bar to match my lift and didn't help, so I yanked it out. I ran out of time so I had to back the truck into the garage and found out I now have no brakes. The rear lines are not connected, but shouldn't I still have front brakes? Isn't that why there are two reservoirs in the master cylinder. My 1972 cj kept the front brakes when I tore a rear line. Does this mean the front proportioning valve is bad? If so where do I find a new one? Thanks.. Brian

Hello, I have a 1985 front axle with axle disconnect. It started leaking so I took out the axles and found it was worn and been fixed with some shim like thing. I'm tired of this axle having problems so I'm getting a different one from a friend. The new one has 3.07 gears and the messed up one has 3.73. I'd like to use the 3.73's which look good, but can't get them out. Any trick I'm missing or just use more force? I think everything is disconnected. Thanks.

Wow, I obviously haven't been sleeping (Drastic work schedule change). It needed lots of penetrating oil to loosen the nut like all 22 year old bolts and I didn't clean up after myself. Of course it slips in the sleeve with that much lubrication. Thanks for not making fun of me. Of course, you can always post a question here and noone ever makes fun of your question, which is why this is the best jeep site on the net. Always a great help here. Thanks, Brian

it has an axle from a 1985 cherokee. I put in a 1 degree offset sleeve to fix my camber.

How do you tighten the nuts on the lower ball joints? I can't tighten it much past hand tight since it rotates. Thanks.

Sounds like You've all had success with an upgrade. Definitely going to do it instead of just buying a standard light. Wanted to make sure they were worth the money and sounds like all of them are. Thanks.

I hope I didn't sound like I wasn't going to follow your advise. I am, but I have to work until tuesday. I'm planning to replace the ball joints. I guess I meant if I still had a problem after I replace them. Thanks for the help.

So does that mean I'm screwed on the camber if the ball joints are good? Haven't checked them closely, but it drives the same after the axle swap. Both axles had this same problem. Of course both could have had bad ball joints. If they're good is there anything else to check while I'm under there on tuesday?

the caster numbers are + while the camber are -. It only pulls when the road tilts, but the right tire is wearing unevenly I think the inside is going faster, can't remember for sure.

forgot to mention I've added a dana 30 from a 1985 and all the tie rod ends feel good and had a new adjustable track bar. Had the same problem before the lift with the 2wd axle. Every part has been replaced except the upper control arms.

I have a 1992 jeep comanche with a 3" skyjacker lift on a 2wd 4.0 eliminator with a manual (I know lifted 2wd is wrong, but working towards 4wd). i can't seem to get the steering right. I took it to an alignment shop and they set the toe at 0. My lift had longer lower control arms. But it looks wrong and I have no on center feel. Steering wheel also moves alot as the tilt of the road changes which is very common in seattle. The right wheel points outward slightly when the left is straight. The left also appears to be farther back and according to the alignment guide posted on here the left wheelbase should be shorter not the right. My alignment numbers from the shop: caster left: 7.18 caster Right: 6.87 camber left: -1.03 camber right: -1.39 toe left: 0 toe right: 0 Any ideas?

I have a burned out headlight so I thought I'd upgrade. I've seen several in my quadratec catalog, has anyone else upgraded. Any recommendations, brands, etc. Thanks.

My horn was out when I got my mj, the fuse kept popping on my 1992. I found out that the e-brake was knicking a wire next to it. A little electrical tape fixed the problem. It didn't effect my headlights, but there's several wires there. Mine came with one horn, but now has three. Had a couple of extras from an '85.