702_MJ

Update, rear end is SOAd with a 1" UBE. Did an SYE

4 bolt steering box That sleeve got welded in As of today, I pulled the 35, need to get new center pins. Cleaned and painted the 44, ready to press on new axle bearings and set up brakes. Hopefully can roll it under the truck and set it up next week. Tnt trac bar should be here friday as well.

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I forgot to mention its a 92' 4.0 wiring harness. I tracked it down kinda. In the fuse block the ground circuit that is suppose to ground out the fuel pump relay and activate the relay had power coming back through it, and while I tested it the ASD relay activated, so both grounds are connected at some point and have power coming back to it. Take the ASD relay out and the pump primes like it would normally. BUT with the fuel pump connected at the resistor on the fender and I test the ground circuit and ground it out with the test light the fuel pump activates!

86 MJ, 4.0, with 4cyl fuel pump, changed less than a year ago. Anyway when I go to start the truck in the morning or after its been sitting for over 15min the fuel pump won't prime. And when I start it the truck will crank a long time but eventually start after about 5-10sec. But after it has been started and driven if I shut the truck off and turn the key back on the pump primes normally! I checked with a test light if I'm getting power to the resistor(which has been bypassed) on the driver fender, and yes I am, test for power down at the connection to the pump and I am getting power there too. Tested my ground and it has a good ground. Is there anything in between the resister on the fender and the connection before the tank? Ill go through it and double check tomorrow, I may have to check this out when the truck has been sitting for a bit. But any suggestions are greatly appreciated, thanks!

I'm sure, but a pain in the but to ship to Hawaii haha! I have an TnT long arm kit, Ax15 and 231 hanging off its rear end waiting to go in, guess its time to take a few weeks and put it all in. Ill check that other 231 first and maybe put an SYE in and change some seals on the trans.

Mvusse, thinking about it I think that may be the case in this situation....bummer.

Mvusse, my dad swapped in a 92' 4.0 AW4 231 and the front axle from donor Cherokee. So the CAD is gone. I'm gonna go try mess with the linkage some more, cuz it still feels like to me it's not engaging all the way. My cousin thinks the front driveshaft gear in the case is worn and the chain is just slipping...I'm hoping not so. Skidoo_j, that is on order, not because of this problem but because my cousin has it on his MJ, nsg 370 swapped in, and he loves it.

I have an 86' MJ with a 231 transfercase, lately when I put it in 4hi and start to drive itll pop out of gear and Ill hear this horrible grinding sound, like it disengages partially! It still has a little forward motion when this occurs, and when I mess with the gear shift and take it out of 4hi and put it back in it does the same thing, like its not engaging right. I checked the linkage and spun the drive shafts today, the linkage is pretty tight, theres some play in it at the handle and a little side to side down by the pivot but nothing front to back, and when I spun the driveshafts everything was moving correctly, no binding or anything and the front tires were spinning, has the typical play with gear wear I think. I might put it on stands and try see what it does when power is applied. I'm hoping the problem isnt inside the case itself. Anyone have any suggestions, or what to specifically look for in play in the linkage or any of that? Thanks in advance.

It was the CPS....my cousin told me he tested it. But he threw one at it anyway and that's what it was. Problem solved, disregard problem. Thanks

Negative, checked that, even swapped the MAP from my MJ to make sure it wasnt that.

ok, the truck has 8.5" of lift. And maybe we knocked something loose down there. I was thinking CPS cuz thats like the only thing that we kinda unplugged but maybe not. Ill have him go check.

So I was trying to help my cousin with his MJ, its an 87' 4.0L. It was running before, then we put the TNT y link kit on(completely irrelevant), put everything back together and the truck has a really low, like 1-200rpm and its extremely rough and stumbles and will eventually die, every now and then itll sound like a cylinder will fire with the intake valve open. Checked timing again and again everything is fine, we have the right amount of psi for fuel, have enough flow for fuel, its getting air, and its getting spark. So to me a sensor must have decided to go out. Anyone have ever dealt with a similar problem on an 87-90 4.0L MJ? Any help would be great, thanks in advance!

Huh? howd you squeeze them? Ive been pounding mine all day with no sign of budging...course 20+ years of crap getting in I'm sure doesnt help. I'm soaking them in penetrating oil over night, just gotta find my burnzomatic tip and a canister and I'm gonna BBQ those suckers tomorrow

Hmm ok, well I'll keep trying. They were put in there, there's gotta be a way for them to come out. I'll let you know when I find the secret haha

So I'm in the process of swapping on 97+ doors. And the door hinge is kinda worn out, not pulling from the body but the actual hole the pin goes in. Anyone know any other way to get the pins out besides a BFH and some penetrating oil? And then once I get them out, what can I put back in? I know they sell pin kits but it's for later model Cherokees. Thanks in advance

I believe I remember him telling me he bypassed it and same thing. Which if that was the case, I would think the switch itself is having the issue.

I went down and tried to help drewboy23, compared my voltage on my MJ to his....my truck was no help(no intermittent wipers). The full story is he swapped in a column with intermittent wipers, and right now low works great...getting about 11.5v outta that wire(white w/ black) on low...but on high the (blue w/ white wire) we are getting 8v. So to me it's losing voltage somewhere....Or the wiring is different from model to model and where the trucks high hooks up to the columns wiped switch is in the wrong terminal. But maybe the wiper switch has a bad internal conection.

Yeah no worries I'll give it a shot and see where I am when the dust clears. Thanks for the info. Cuz I woulda been scratchn my head for hours haha

Actually I just looked and I have a white wire in that pin, on the turn/hazard side.

Thanks, makes my job so much easier. So can just piggy back it off pin P wire?

So ever since my dad gave me my truck, 86' MJ, I always had a tail light issue. When you turn the passenger signal on and step the brake the signal stops and the brake light takes over if that makes sense, and I notice it doesn't light up the drivers side when doing that. After some interrogating I found out my dad had to cut and splice wires when he swapped in a 92' XJ dash. Today I was sperlunking around and found those said splices. And he has the brake switch running to the passenger tail light. But there's only 4 wires on the MJ harness and like 5 on the XJ....any way my question is how is the brake light wire ran stock? I want these things to work normally.... Btw I have an owners manual for the XJs...but seems MJ wiring is completely different. Thanks in advance for any help.

Oh yeah thats a good one. Ill have to double check them, I know they are the injectors that came with the 97' 4.0L. I think I put a new o-ring kit on when I swapped it in, since I swapped in my intake and injector rail. Great suggestion Ill go look, thanks

Yep I remember doing that cuz I changed it as the original was starting to rot.

Fixed the tank, changed the filter, added lucas fuel treatment......and now it kinda is hard starting. Itll crank longer than usual and kinda stumble to life then run like she use to. Gonna bypass that resistor on the fender, no idea if that'll help at all. Gotta wait till next week to throw a fuel pres gauge on it. Any other suggestions?