1987_MJ

No the jeep is currently only running one battery...however it has a battery box in the bed that i think use to be the home to a 2nd battery... So your saying connect the Wire running from the alt. stud to the negative battery post connecter? Thanks i'll check out the map senor connections.

Hey guys, I'm having a couple problems with my MJ here after my motor swap. I'm not sure if the problems are related or not but i'd figure i'd ask the guru's. First off I just put in a new motor after the original one was toast. I swapped in one from a 99 XJ but kept all the brackets and sensors from the original motor. First off the MJ is now running like crap. I know i have a vacuum leak somewhere but i cannot locate it. But it is also running very rich. There are large amounts of black smoke coming out the tailpipe and the engine sounds like its idling erratically. here's a video its easier to watch then me trying to explain. Second, the alternator is not charging the battery. I have everything connected that I know of. I tried to find some reference pics online but didn't come up with anything. I have the wire harness pigtail hooked up along with the singe wire from the stud on the starter to the junction box. See pics below... Stud on alternator Junction box Pointing to where the wire connected to the alt. stud connects to. I've timing the jeep according to the service manual and every time i time it i get the same result and it keeps running like this. Some pics of the distributor Oh and also found this wire not sure where it goes too. Any thoughts?

Thanks man. Picked up a set of donor axles for the XJ today. Next weekend i'll get them out and start getting the rear end set up for the MJ. Once I get the rear in I will take measurements for the front. Looks like i'll be running about a 33" tire. The front suspension will stay a short arm. Also throwing around ideas for paint eventually maybe a silver or light blue.

Well got a bit of an update. been trying to sort out the comanche's various problems electrical is kicking my butt, along with the timing and vacuum leaks. However I have decided to sell my cherokee due me getting sick of it and I'm deploying at the end of the year. But before I sell it I will be ripping out the axles and replacing them with stock axles. This means the comanche will be getting the Ford 8.8 rear end with elocker,truss, and 4.56's. Along with the HP dana 30 open with 4.56's. Once the cherokee is gone the larger build will start (4x4 conversion, ~4.5 lift, and 33's)

Yes but I did buy a new switch so I will try replacing it.

Update. Replaced both the Tun signal, and Hazard flasher units on the fuse box. This fixed the Hazard flashers. But not the Turn signals. However I have a question when the hazard flashers are on, do the side lights in the front blink? In my case they are not. I know the problem is not the fuse because from my research the reverse lights are on the same circuit and those work. I thought it might be the actual switch on the steering column, I made sure it was plugged in. Still nothing but my Brights do come on so i know that part of the switch still works. The other thought is like 88eliminator said the sockets. Any thoughts?

hmm interesting so your Arrows on the gauge cluster didn't light up either?

Correct no voltage at any socket. I know the fuse is good, I will look at the switch connections next and if that does not work I will try replacing the flashers.

Did have some corrosion in the sockets but I tested for voltage with a multimeter and wasn't getting anything.

Hmm well mine is a standard so thats a thought...I would not have thought of that one Thanks! Went out and did a full test Headlights work along with runners below the headlights work, tail light runners work. Brake lights work, Reverse lights work. Turn signals do not work with the headlights on or off. (Front and rear) and nothing on the interior. 4Ways do not work anywhere unless I put on the left blinker then the left arrow on the dash lights up solid along with the taillight.. I don't hear any clicking from the flasher. Also I pulled all the bulbs to make sure and they are all in good shape.

I bought my MJ with the Turn signals not working I originally thought it was due to a blown fuse. I replaced it and still nothing. When I put then turn signal on the little arrow indicators do not even flash. I figure its either the Switch or the flasher relay. Any ideas?

hmmm okay i will keep that info in mind when searching for the doors and thanks the body is rust free just have to pull up the carpet and take a look. I'm thinking some sort of green.

I recently picked up a 1987 Jeep Comanche its a 87' 2WD Shortbed 4.0, BA-10, 35 with 160K on it. I have always wanted one but I lived in Michigan all my life and the rust has killed all of them. However after I Enlisted in the Army I got stationed in El Paso so I started looking for one. Sure enough I found this one rust free but it has a bunch of electrical problems. But more importantly I bought it with a blown motor so I hunted down a 4.0 out of a 99 XJ and swapped it in. Oh and I should say that I'm use to the platform I have had my 2000 XJ since I turned 16 (4 years). Here are some pics of the 'Manche when I bought it. (I need to get rid of the Bed cap I can't stand it. If someone is local and wants it PM me and you can have it for free.) here's a pic of my XJ and the details 4.0L, NV3550 (5 speed), NP242, 30 w/ 4.56's / Ford 8.8 Elocker 4.56's, 35's, RC 6.5"LA, and some other crap. Anyways back to the 'Manche Here are some pics of it when I bought it and the Motor swap. When I was researching putting a newer Motor into a Renix Jeep there wasnt much info (that i found) reguarding the sensors so I took a few pics to show what you need to swap...The only sensor the Newer block was not drilled for was the coolant temp sensor which I think i can screw into the block drain plug hole. Going to try that soon I will update when I do. Renix block Coolant temp sensor hole 99 Block (lack of hole) The sensor 99 Motor going in Almost finished Its done now and running but not well I have a vacuum leak I just ordered a new CCV from Autozone that will be here this week...also found a vacuum line diagram online so I'm going to go thru and replace all the lines with rubber ones. Also have to trouble shoot some of the electrical issues. The turn signals, interior gauge lights, Marker lights, and Interior dome lights don't work. Once I get the exterior lights working I can get an inspection then get plates on it so its legal to drive again. Which I don't think It has been on the road in awhile... Also picked up some goodies for it... 245/75/16's (~31's) These will be wrapped in a set of TJ rubicon Moab wheels. Also some stock JK shocks I figure sense the truck currently has 235/75/15's (~29's) on it right now I can install a 2" spacer and do an AAL and with those shocks it will give it a nice stance for a small price. After I get it registered, suspension, wheels, and tires are installed. I will shift my focus to the interior and body. I want to Install some Pre 96 doors with power windows along with smokers windows (I'm not sure if that combo existed but I will make it work). Also I want to do a gauge cluster swap to get a tach and get rid of the idiot lights. Maybe if I can find a nice center console and buckets swap those in. Body wise I want to straiten up the tweaked bumpers, get the bed line-X'ed and get the truck painted. More to follow...

So my motor is blown in my 87 but I have the opportunity to buy a fresh 4.0 out of a 96 XJ my question is can I swap this into my MJ and bolt the Renix Intake,exhaust, Engine Accessories onto the block. I plan on swapping out my BA10 with an AX15 and also converting it to a 4x4 at the same time. Just need to know of this motor will work. Thanks very much.

Did a compression test and got... 1 38 2 105 3 115 4 110 5 90 6 80 Time for a rebuild...

I've gone over bare metal with Herculiner it works fine just apply it thick.

Pics

Alright went out Took both lines off the front one had oil in it but the rear one grommet looks like it was on fire at some point. I ran the truck without them connected and it did run smoother but after a few mins it got hot and it started to burn oil and smoke was coming out the holes on the valve covers.

Just picked up a 1987 MJ with a 4.0L. I have a 2000 XJ on 35's that i've had for a few years so I'm use to 4.0's but I wanted some opinions. I was driving it home from where I bought it and i noticed a lack of power and then the motor cut off..the gages don't work so i don't know how hot it was but there was smoke coming out the valve cover, intake, and dipstick. I looked at the coolant...DRY so I added some and it cooled down. Thinking I had fixed the problem I continued and sure enough I got up to speed and more smoke. Pulled back over and went for the air filter. and sure enough it had oil on it. So i decided to tow it back. After getting it home I looked at the exhaust coming out the tailpipe and sure enough its burning oil. My thoughts were PCV valve cause thats common on 4.0's but do you think i have excessive Blowby? The motor has 160K on it. Any thoughts on where to start?