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If I find an XJ with no rust will it fit in decently? I thought I've always read that the MJ and XJ floors were pretty different. I've seen MJs in the yards around here but it's pretty rare.

Has anyone bought the replacement floor pans from RockAuto? Just wondering how close it is to what's already there, or what used to be there in my case. And if it comes with the studs for remounting the seat or if that's something i would have to weld in. My driver side pan is pretty bad. Or if anyone has other suggestions of where to get replacement pans that would be great too. I haven't pulled the carpet yet but from underneath the truck it looks like the rust is starting to climb up the transmission hump.

Sorry for the last response. I was out of town. But yeah as a few of the other guys have already said, it’s the two wire. I’ve always just bought what I could afford at the time, but I don’t think I’ve ever went to the dealer for the mopar replacement, first time I went to the local autopart store and I think I paid around 60-80 and then after that I started using rockauto when I knew it was going bad again. Although I had to return one from rockauto, don’t remember which brand i bought but it seemed to be accurate to about 25mph and then after that the needle just crawled to about 35 even if I was going 70. I hasn’t been acting up the last two days so I haven’t taken the dash apart yet, I’ll get around to that later in the week, guess I’ll order a spare sensor in the meantime and ride this one out until it dies.

I haven't had a chance to take a look at anything yet, and it's also been working the last few days. If I get a chance after work today I'll take a look to see if it's 2 or 3 wire.

Thanks everyone, I'll report back once I get a chance to check the cluster and wiring.

That's what I'm starting to think, but I would think that even with a new sensor it would still act all crazy if there was a bad wire. Every time I've replaced the sensor it's been fine for a year or two and then starts to go out again. I'll try pulling the cluster and make sure all the connections are good.

92 4.0 4X4 ax15 I'm on my 4th speed sensor, and this one is starting to go out again. Sometimes is works fine, sometimes is doesn't work at all and reads 0 even if I'm going. 45+ and then will randomly jump up and work until I shut the truck off. Now yesterday it was working fine and then starting jumping all over the place, both up and down, then returned to normal. Has anyone else had to replace theirs nearly every two years? This time around it hasn't happened yet but in the past if it wasn't working and the speedometer was reading 0 even while I was moving it would shut off if the RPMs dropped too suddenly while I wasn't in gear or didn't down shift very quickly. Do I have another problem that keeps causing these speed sensors to fail?

All good! Haha, still good info to know. So as log as its in good shape it should be worth switching into my Comanche.

Awesome, thanks for the info. I have access to a shop with a lift, and a buddy who used to work at an off road shop and has his own welder, so I'm thinking I'll get him to help me switch the rear if I take that route. I'm sure there's a how to I can find somewhere to help the process. Figured the transmission wasn't really worth the trouble, I'll have to do some more digging on the t case As far as the front end, I replaced 80% of the MJ a few years back, tie rod ends, control arms, ball joints, wheel hubs, so knowing about the steering box is good, that's one thing I considered but skipped over due to money. And I think the sway bar was damaged in the ZJ, haven't gotten it back from insurance yet but it looked like the front skid plate was pushed into it a good amount. Wheels and tires are deff getting pulled off. I mentioned the interior being in great shape if anyone was interested but guess I didn't mention the exterior that's still good. The whole front is smashed in along with hood and passenger fender. From what I could tell the driver fender wasn't touched and the rest of the body is rust and dent free, so doors, tailgate all that is in perfect condition.

I’ve owned a 92 MJ 4.0 4x4 AX15 for almost 10 years now. Runs great, never had any major problems with it, daily driver. 5 weeks ago I picked up a 96 ZJ for a great price, that was in AMAZING condition. Last weekend someone pulled out in front of me and my wife and the ZJ was totaled. (Thankfully no one was hurt, except for the Jeep, but held up pretty damn good considering) So my question is, what’s worth keeping and swapping to the MJ? The ZJ has a 4.0 with I believe the 242 transmission? I know I want to keep the 4.0 and possibly do some engine mods for a future swap into the MJ. From what I can tell when I looked at it I don’t think there is any engine damage. The radiator got a nice hole blown in it somewhere, but wasn’t pushed in far enough to hit the fan or anything else. The transmission had a slight slip when I bought it, would slip going into 2nd and 3rd for the first time every time I drove it, once it finally grabbed it would be fine for the rest of the trip. I’ll probably pull it and set it aside for now but really don’t have any future plans for that or the transfer case. Don’t know if it would be worth it to get it worked on and sell it, or just sell it 'as is' for cheap hoping someone with the knowledge can fix it up. As for the axles, I haven’t confirmed any of this but I believe the MJ has 3.08 or 3.10 gears, would anyone here be able to confirm this? Mine doesn't have the tow package and I know the rear is a D35 and the front a D30, I’m guessing that’s pretty standard, and the ZJ has 3.55s from what I’ve read online from what was stock for that year (it’s a laredo). Main question here is would it be easier to swap out the whole axles, or swap out just the guts, everything should be interchangeable since they’re the same axles correct? Or would this be worth doing at all? I never plan to go off roading with it, but maybe down the road put a small lift on it with a somewhat bigger tires. (The whole point of me getting the ZJ was to have a new daily driver so I could slowly start working on the Comanche as I had the money, needs a little body work, nothing major, desperate need of some new paint) I also like the idea of converting the rear brakes over to disc, but again not sure if it would be easier to do a whole axel swap or just remount everything? I think that’s all my questions... for now anyway. If anyone is looking for ZJ interior parts I’ll probably have them up on craigslist if anyone is in the Hampton Roads area of VA. Would hate to see them go to waste but I have no use for them now, the interior was in EXCELLENT condition minus carpet stains, but the seats have no rips, tears, stains. and the dash didn’t even have any cracks in it until the airbags came flying thru it. Thanks in advance!

Cool, thanks FrankTheDog.

Sounds like the deal is off! Thanks for the info, glad I asked before this turned into a waste of money. I’ll just have to wait till I get lucky in the junk yard.

I have a 92 MJ L6 4.0 5speed with the internal slave cylinder, I’ve been told and read up on this and other forums as much I could about this swap and think I have a good understanding of the process. My question is, I have a friend looking to get rid of his 96 Dodge Dakota, from what I know it has the same AX15 transmission with the external slave, however it has a 4L engine, does anyone have any information if this will still be a bolt on fit for the bellhousing? Also, when replacing the clutch would I purchase one for a 92 or does it need to be a 96 for the updated parts? Thanks for the help.

Thanks for all the help. After replacing more parts and retesting stuff, it was finally showing no spark, ended up being the Excel Performance coil I put in last Oct went bad... replaced it with a standard one from the autopart store and its running like a champ again, at least I got a bunch of new parts and sensors out of it???

Finally got the fuel pump in today, which was a fun 2 day experience. I’ve seen the other posts and read around that the replacement fuel pump from autozone, advance, napa, ect, is a pain to get it to fit right, with some mods, I got it snuggly back into the tank (I couldn’t find the discontinued Bosch pump anywhere locally and since this is my daily driver waiting for shipping from summit or rockauto didn’t sound too appealing). NO LUCK, same problem. Checked the fault codes and got 12 and 24, battery, cause it had been disconnected, and TPS, replaced the TPS, NO LUCK. Double and triple checked the wiring with and around the ballast resistor, everything seems fine. Finally we checked the distributor cap and rotor... may have been the problem all along, in addition to the spark plugs. The last thing I would have thought it would have been since I changed the plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and coil in October. Switching them out tomorrow morning, hopefully this is the problem. At least I have all new fuel system parts? Here’s the parts I ordered from summit in Oct, anyone else ever have any issues with them? ACCEL 140021 - ACCEL Mopar Remote Super Coils http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACC-140021 Bosch Automotive 4508 - Bosch Platinum IR Fusion Spark Plugs http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BCH-4508 Davis Unified Ignition 35100RD - Davis Unified Ignition Cap and Rotor Kits http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DUI-35100RD Taylor Cable 84049 - Taylor ThunderVolt 8.2mm Spark Plug Wire Sets http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TAY-84049

1992. Inline6. 152,000ish miles. Drove to work the other day everything seemed fine. Went to lunch, went to drive back to work and it wouldn’t start. Had a buddy come to help me out as soon as he got there I tried again just for laughs and it fired up no problem, ran for about a minute, idle speed fluctuated a little but nothing extreme, and then died. Afterwards it won’t start unless it’s sat for a while and will only stay running for a minute or so if I don’t touch anything, if I touch the gas at all it immediately dies. One time I gave it gas, white smoke started coming from the throttle body. I’ve changed the fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump relay, ballast resistor, fixed a questionable vacuum line 90 elbow, and poured a bottle of seafoam in the gas tank. Rented a fuel pressure tester from autozone and it read around 35 while not running, I couldn’t get it running while the pressure tester was hooked up. Could it be the fuel pump? Was hoping not to drop the gas tank but if it has to be done it has to be done. Check engine light has never came on until today when I got it to run for about 30 seconds and forgot to put the gas cap back on after relieving the fuel pressure to switch out the pressure regulator. I’ve had some friends tell me that it would also be the MAP sensor but I tested that today and it was reading 5.2 volts, crank shaft sensor, which I’ve been told it wouldn’t start at all if that was the problem. Or possibly a throttle body sensor. Changed the sparkplugs, wires, coil, and dist. cap a few months ago with slightly better OEM parts. I don’t think any of those would be the problem. Any ideas? Suggestions? Going to try the fuel pump tomorrow. Thanks for the help.

I just put Herculiner on my bed about a month ago. Looks great. I would pick up an extra quart tho for touch ups, the gallon will probably get you enough but I put mine on pretty thick so I ended up using almost all of the extra quart I picked up. (I have a long bed). And if you have a tendency to make a mess wear long sleeves and pants. I somehow got it all over my leg.. I’m sure rubbing xylene on it to get it off wasn’t the safest thing to do, but my leg has yet to fall off.

i got a pair of high top nike’s between my seats that treat me pretty well, you can even adjust the tongue to fit.

Fix em now or you’ll end up pulling them up by hand while you crank them up! Mine did the same and now they get stuck down.

Checked oil again today and there wasn’t as much “milk” on the dipstick as yesterday couldn’t even get a good picture of it to post. Also bought the leak test kit and it’s saying there’s no leak or crack in the block. Should I be alright with an oil change and keeping an eye on it?

Ill post some photos tomorrow.

Gonna try this kit before I go taking stuff apart. Its my daily driver so I need it to get to work. Also forgot to mention that's its always low on coolant, but never falls below a certain point so I always figured a crack in the plastic but never can find any evidence in the engine compartment (or the inside of the truck had the carpet up last week). If it happens to be the gasket. Has anyone had better or worse luck with certain brands?

Checked oil today and it had a milky color mixed in with the oil on the dipstick. From what I’ve read sounds like it should be the head gasket or possibly a a blocked scavenger hose? No white smoke from the tail pipe, isn’t over heating (as long as my gages are actually working right, but my oil pressure gage tends to go haywire every now and then, and the gas gage doesn’t work above 3/4 of a tank.) I’m due for an oil change by the end of the week. Plan on changing and checking new oil everyday for signs of more moisture. Any ideas of whats most likely the problem before I start taking the engine apart to replace gaskets? Thanks in advance. Here’s one of the sources I checked out. Not really aimed towards Jeep’s but seemed to be helpful http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

4wd here’s one i was looking at but i’ve found it for about $200 cheaper http://www.jegs.com/i/Gibson/462/GP400S ... tId=757993

Plan on getting new header/cat-back system once I have the cash saved up. Not sure what I’ll be putting on, I have mangaflow cat-back on it now. Any suggestions/tips for install and what kind to buy. 92 inline6 4.0