MJ.rusty

hey just wonding if you ever finished the other part of your write up. i was thinking on doing the open loop also. maybe not the BRX hoses tho

hey just wonding if you ever finished the other part of your write up. i was thinking on doing the open loop also. maybe not the BRX hoses tho

FINALLY! i have found a garage for cheap right down the street. i have many plans for my truck- flat bed (if someone needs the original six foot let me know) body work , etc. all of these i know something about. bear with me now I'm not a mechanic nor a gear head. still learning now while I'm in the garage i want to do something with my motor. i have a 1990 4.0l eliminator with manual trans. i think it has 150k on it and runs ok. i think it has some blow by due to the oil splater on the passenger side of the engine and hood (think it might be blowing out of the dip stick. not sure) pretty sure i need to replace the rear main seal cause it leaks oil from somewhere and ends up dripping of the oil pan. when i first bought it i had compression tests and all that good stuff done and it all came back good. i plan to replace most of the bolt ons. and was wondering if it would be worth it to get a rebuild kit or to get a rebuilt engine. i don't want to replace a good motor for the sake of it. i bought the truck to learn. but i also don't want to rent a garage for the rest of my life to fix the existing engine. any and all feedback would be greatly greatly appreciated

FINALLY! i have found a garage for cheap right down the street. i have many plans for my truck- flat bed (if someone needs the original six foot let me know) body work , etc. all of these i know something about. bear with me now I'm not a mechanic nor a gear head. still learning now while I'm in the garage i want to do something with my motor. i have a 1990 4.0l eliminator with manual trans. i think it has 150k on it and runs ok. i think it has some blow by due to the oil splater on the passenger side of the engine and hood (think it might be blowing out of the dip stick. not sure) pretty sure i need to replace the rear main seal cause it leaks oil from somewhere and ends up dripping of the oil pan. when i first bought it i had compression tests and all that good stuff done and it all came back good. i plan to replace most of the bolt ons. and was wondering if it would be worth it to get a rebuild kit or to get a rebuilt engine. i don't want to replace a good motor for the sake of it. i bought the truck to learn. but i also don't want to rent a garage for the rest of my life to fix the existing engine. any and all feedback would be greatly greatly appreciated

ok so they won't have any problem sealing the window over top of the por 15? cause i know if your going to paint over it you need to use the por 15 self etching primer.

my blower motor i think is pulling to many amps. everytime i put a fuse in the fuse panel and turn the a.c. on it runs good for a min. or so and then melts the crap out of the fuse. to many amps? or something else? ooh and also my blower will run on high but not low? any solutions? thanks

my windsheild cracked and removed.(was leaking before anyway) there was a bit of rust so i wired brushed it and had someone replace the windsheild. the made the leak worse and now its probably still rusting :headpop: . i used por 15'a seam sealer (cause i couldnt find a caulk that works) to seal it for now. so... I'm going to take it out and have a pro do it. but i wanted to know if i used a rust sealer like por-15 or eastwoods rust stuff to seal the rust, that they could still get a good seal on the windsheild. i heard they use a special primer and it needs to be on bare metal. any info would be awsome!

i have no clue what it could be now. i have replaced the ballast, coil, and module all on seperate occations. keeps having the same problem. I'm thinking fuel pump. and I'm looking for wiring harnesses too. can't find any. got any ideas

yea ill have to try that next time. might be a little while before i get a chance to drive her. but thanks alot. and keep me updated on what you might find out about your problem.

i have a 1990 comanche eliminator 4.0l 5 speed with roughly 150,000 miles. runs good besides it leaks some oil (what jeep doesnt). but here's the problem. when i drive it for about 45 min to an hour it will start to act up. it will cut out. come back in. cut out. come back in but my foot will still be on the throttle and the rpms will still be where they should be relative to my speed and gear. until i take it out of gear then it will turn all the way off. if i start it back up right away it the rpms will spike to 3 thousand. hold for a split sec. and come back to about 1. sputter a couple of times and then shut off again most of the time. sometimes it will idle fine for five to ten min. then i drive down the road a couple hundred feet and it will get pissy again. here is the weird thing. if i let it cool down for 15 to twenty min. turn it back on and go it will drive fine for another 45 min to and hour. now i'v checked fuses everytime just to make sure. and 2 times is was my trans fuse that blew. but every other time it hasnt been. i wiggle wires and all the good luck rituals i like to call them and nothing seems to help. i think it might be wiring or at least sensors. i have a new crank shaft sensor and throttle positioning sensor due to other problems. I'm starting to think it might be the ignition swith or something in the ignition system. or maybe the trans is over heating and trying to tell me something. or maybe even vacuum lines. but i don't know anymore. JUST won't TO WHEEL!