KYMANCHE

No one? :idea:

Looking for a plow to throw on my 92', and I am having a hard time finding a complete set up. Located in northern New Jersey, if you've got one let me know! Thanks, Kyle.

Well, that's a plus. Thanks for the info man.

I was comparing them at a distance, but now that you put them side by side I can definately recall seeing the 8.25 on the XJ. I didn't know they both looked so similar, so I didn't question it.

Actually now that I look again, I agree with your bet. Ah, well thanks guys.

Hey guys, I've done some searching but came up with nothing solid so I'm reaching out. I have a 92 MJ, with a locker in the rear. It's a Dana 35. I also have a 98 XJ, that is also a Dana 35. I know there is a Dana 35C, but honestly, I'm unsure of the difference. Anyways, I want to put the locker in the XJ. I figure the easiest way to is to swap the axles. The yokes appear to be the same, so that really doesn't concern me. However, I went to check the gear ratio tags to try to match them up. But the one on the XJ is missing. Also, the diameter of the XJ's axle appears to be bigger than the one of the MJ. So, does anyone know if the gear ratio's are the same, and if this is even possible? Any info would help me out a great deal, thanks in advance!

Good idea! I had my buddy hold a hose over my truck while I was in it, and it was coming in on the bottom front curve of the driver door. I replaced the secondary seals in hopes it would help, and it did a little bit, but I'm still getting some water in there. I'll try to give that powder trick a go. Thanks. :thumbsup:

Every time it rains or snows, I get a pretty decent puddle on the driver's side floor. I re-sealed the front and rear windshield, replaced the weather stripping, and the secondary seals. Still not 100% though! Has anyone had a similar problem?

up, I need help! :doh:

I disconnected the connector from the MAP sensor, and reconnected it. Started it, and it showed improvement by idling longer than normal. Still proceeds to die though. I checked vacuum, I've got plenty. The clip on the connector is also broken from the previous owner, but it seems to hold pretty well. When I got the truck, it was chock full of vacuum leaks. I capped every one I found until I can really tear into it and trace everything. Back to the sensor though, does it sound like it needs to be replaced? I cleaned up the connection the best I could, and it showed slight improvement. Still continues to do what I said earlier though.

Thanks guys, yeah I'm aware it's in the thermostat housing. I replaced it yesterday with no improvement still. The connector was a little fudged up from the previous owner so I'm gonna try to get a replacement and splice it in. I will also check the MAP and see if I can find anything you mentioned. Again, the input in much appreciated guys. :thumbsup:

I just checked ALLDATA, the one for the computer is in fact up front by the thermostat housing for the HO engines. I'm gonna run and get one now, it's worth a shot. I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks again for the info, I would have never thought of that. Makes a ton of sense now.

Haha that's funny, thanks for the info man. I will look into it.

The one in the thermostat housing? The one on the rear driver's side of the head I just recently replaced because my gauge was reading wrong. If you don't mind me asking, how do you figure? I would never have thought of that causing the problem.

I have a 1992, and It's pretty wierd when starting. When I start it at first, it chugs for awhile and continues to as it turns over. Then it instantly dies. I start it a 2nd time, it starts up quicker with less chugging, and runs for a bit longer but then proceeds to die. On the third start up, it starts just fine. Sometimes it will start to sputter, but then I suppose some kind of cold start kicks in and gives it a little throttle. Once it's warm, it starts up and idles just fine. I tested the fuel pressure, did a leak down test, changed the TPS, and fuel filter. I'm pretty stumped, has anyone had the same issue? or any ideas to what it could be? I installed a remote start on it, but rarely use it due to this issue. Any info would be great! Thanks.

Thanks! I will.

You have a point, and I respect your concern. However, the entire floor was not missing. Structurally, the floor was there. Along with a few random holes. The biggest hole was maybe a 3" jagged square. The fiberglass acts more like a sealant rather than an addition to the structure.

You fiberglassed the floors? Indeed I did. I ordered metal pans to weld in. They were like 100something$, but they sent me the wrong ones. So I thought to myself I can do it much cheaper and easier with fiberglass cloth and resin. So I sent them back. I sanded the floors, sprayed rust neutralizer on it to keep it from spreading, and then fiberglassed the whole floor midway up the center hump. Sanded it when it was dry. Got some herculiner, and coated the entire floor, and back wall up to the plastic trim piece going across underneath the rear windshield. Worked great, was pretty easy, and was cheaper than the sheetmetal. The bed liner was the most expensive thing. My only complaint would be the noise, since there's no more carpet to muffle the sound/vibrations.

Hey guys, I adjusted the linkage. Visually, It didnt look like it did much. It was all caked with mud. However, the other night when I went to go plow.. I shifted the lever into 4h, and the light came on for the first time. Then I put it in 2, the light went off like it should. I spun the tires in the snow with my head out of the window, and only the rear tires spun :thumbsup: I just tested it again, and it takes moving the lever 2 times, pushing hard forward to get it out. So I think I am going to adjust it further. Thanks for all the input, it really sent me in the right direction. It's still a little jumpy when I have the wheel cut all the way, but I would imagine that's just my big tires. (This is my first lifted Comanche with big tires) I also have another question. It's pretty wierd when starting. When I start it at first, it chugs for awhile and continues to as it turns over. Then it instantly dies. I start it a 2nd time, it starts up quicker with less chugging, and runs for a bit longer but then proceeds to die. On the third start up, it starts just fine. Sometimes it will start to sputter, but then I suppose some kind of cold start kicks in and gives it a little throttle. Once it's warm, it starts up and idles just fine. I tested the fuel pressure, did a leak down test, changed the TPS, and fuel filter. I'm pretty stumped, has anyone had the same issue? or any ideas to what it could be? I installed a remote start on it, but rarely use it due to this issue. Any info would be great! Thanks.

Thank you! It's been awhile since I've been able to get on this between working and plowing. I haven't had the chance to try to adjust the linkage, but once I do I will let you know how it works out! Thanks again.

Hm, Well I tried it in 4lo and that works. When I shifted the lever back to 2, it went right back into 4H. I'm at a loss right now. I checked ALLDATA and the only repairs and adjustments that came up were for the linkage. They said to put a spacer in, but I don't believe that's the problem. It could be, but I don't know.

The lever moves throughout all 4 selections no problem, my lever is on 2H and I'm still in 4wd. And at the moment, I do not. But I'll be sure to take some! :cheers:

Thanks for the info Pete! And thanks man, I've tried putting it in reverse to try to free it up. However I didn't try turning the wheels back and fourth. I'll give that a shot. Did you move the lever as you did it? If that doesn't work, where should I go from there? I'm assuming something faulty in the T-Case?

The floors ended up being rotted out. So I gutted it, fiberglassed the whole thing, and then coated it with Herculiner. Then welded in Volkswagen seats I had and did a whole custom interior. But besides the fact, I tried moving the lever back and fourth from inside the truck, and also underneath it with no result. It's a bit rusty down there, but from what I can see the linkage is working properly. Without a CAD the system works WITHOUT vacuum correct? I'm just not familiar with this type of system and I'm reaching out to you more knowledgable people to point me in the right direction. -Thanks!

I have a 1992 longbed, Non CAD axle. I've looked all over here but couldn't really come up with any solid solutions for why I'm stuck in 4wd. I'm in the process of getting a replacement TCU because the one I have is incorrect, could that have anything to do with it? Thanks in advance, hope someone can help!