cdtx_2011

Yes, Master was bench bled and all was good. New front lines. Prop is the next step maybe?

When I took ownership of my '88 MJ the brakes were 80% non-functioning so I started throwing parts at it in good faith. I've followed every method of bleeding the brakes that I've found on here and nothing is working. The front brakes don't seem to have any pressure when I bleed them and the pedal doesn't go further down when you open the bleed valve like it does when you bleed the rear. I have not yet purged the lines clean, and I haven't taken apart the prop. valve to see if it's stuck in bypass mode (I know the light on the dash should tell me this but I haven't looked either). Upgraded to a used WJ master cylinder/booster New Front calipers/pads Rear cylinders/shoes, springs, etc. New front flexible brake lines. Should I try an XJ prop valve swap and delete the bypass line and load senor? Is it a simple plug and play? Any ideas?

I have searched high and low and cannot find the right information. i’m doing a swap from the stock MJ master cylinder to a ‘04 WJ master cylinder. What thread pitch and flares do i need on each of the MC lines and what are my best options to get there? I pulled a donor MC from picknpull and have yet to actually begin the swap simply due to missing this information. Thanks!

Update. Infrared gun pointed at the upper cooling hose more or less matches the dash gauge. Temp is ranging from 205-215 while idling in the driveway. So i’ll cross that anxiety off the list and move on. Maybe the gauge just needed to loosen up after sitting 20 years?

I didn’t think to check. It definitely doesn’t leak fluid but i don't know if the cap is holding pressure. I’ll check today.

Ill check it out!

It has a vinyl liner and pools so I'm not crazy worried about rust underneath but good point!!

I made my first post over on the repair page so i guess i should post over here as well. Here’s a long winded write up on my 1988 4.0l 5spd 4x4 This truck belonged to a friend and mentor of mine who passed away about 10 years ago. A couple years ago another friend ended up with it and then needed to offload it. It appears he parked it about 20 years ago for unknown reasons as it was last registered in ‘05. Condition was unknown as my buddy had yet to do anything with it, but he was told it had transmission or transfer cases issues likely related to the crunch in the bed that came from moving a railroad baggage car 😂. So far i have found nothing to suggest any drivetrain problems other than me being a bit rusty driving a stick shift. So far i have done the following to it since i finally tore into it last month. Replaced battery, battery terminals, fuel, fuel pump, fuel filter, gas cap, all fuses, refreshed all grounds, cleaned C101 connector, cleaned distributor contacts (turned out to be basically new), spark plugs, all fuel rail o-rings (i took a gas bath when testing the new fuel pump…that was cool), fuel pressure regulator, water pump (see attached picture, the sound it made on first startup was…startling), idler pulley, serpentine belt, thermostat, coolant temp sensor, oil pressure sender, and god knows i have forgotten something. Known issues popping up are as follows, chime in with any tips if you care too - Brakes are about 5% functional (test drives have been fun 🙃) - Turn signals non-responsive - Vent/heat fan very weak - Back slider is missing - I don’t trust the coolant temp reading even after changing the sender (See repair board thread) - Resistance/popping in suspension/steering linkage during hard turns - Windshield leaking….somewhere?

They're cheap enough that i'm willing to replace again, however the sticking was happening with the old thermostat other than it never read above 160 on the gauge which lead me to go ahead and change the sensor. That's why i'm weary of the gauge reading vs the thermostat. I probably would have not changed the thermostat but when i got the truck it had a replacement thermostat in the center console that was clearly never change before the truck was parked for 20 years. I'll try the temperature gun and see if things are matching up.

Motorad

Correct, 195 with 3/16 hole drilled at the 12 o’clock.

Water pump and thermostat are brand new. Picking up an infared gun this weekend.

Hey Guys, I have 1988 4.0l, prior to changing the temp sensor at the back of the head the gauge would never get above 160 indicated on the dash. I changed the sensor and got the same result, when i stepped out of the truck and back in (20 seconds) it had jumped to 215-220. How do i go about troubleshooting the gauge? I'm not terribly worried about the higher temp at this time, i just want to be sure I'm getting the correct reading (and yes, I'm buying an infared gun soon!). thanks!