tdtony

I read cruisers tip 36 BYPASSING THE POWER/COMFORT SWITCH https://cruiser54.com/?p=435. I've tried to bypassed the switch, as you can see in the attached photo, but the REM is still showing that the truck is in comfort mode. the bottom line that says "B1 C0T" the C indicates that its in comfort mode. I'm not sure if the issue is wiring, REM or the TCU. Can anyone confirm that this is the correct plug and that I am jump the correct wires?

I still haven't made any progress on fixing this, so I though Id post all the information I have and see if anyone has any insight or suggestions. I'm new to working on cars so these are all assumptions I've made, and things I've read about on this forum and NAXJ spark new spark plugs new wires fuel pressure at fuel rail: 31psi new Volvo 0280155746 injectors from CS Performance flow rate matched Let me know if there something else I should check with either the fuel system or spark plugs, but I assume its an air issue. Air MAP Sensor is good I have replaced all the vacuum lines coming off the intake manifold, and capped them off individual to see if they were leaking replaced the EGR valve and tested it Adjusted the throttle body butterfly to .003" tightened manifold bolts replaced the IAC replace the O2 sensor Looking at the REM, the ECU keeps sending a signal to close the IAC. This could be because the IAC is not working correctly. I have replaced the IAC, but the new part could be faulty. I'm not sure what the proper IAC behavior should be. When I remove the air intake hose from the throttle body when the engine is off, I cannot see the IAC pintle and when the engine is idling I can see the tip of the pintle. Its at an awkward angle so I can't really tell if there's any movement at idle. Assuming the IAC is good makes me think it could be a vacuum leak, because I've replaced and checked the vacuum lines and the EGR valve, I'm left thinking that the leak could be the manifold or throttle body gasket. I replaced the throttle body gasket when I cleaned the throttle body. Please let me know if I've made a dumb assumption, or if there is something I am missing. I can get videos If that would help, let me know if there are any readings from the REM that would be helpful and I can provide those. Thanks, TDTony

@TurboedMJ I got my injectors from CS Performance Fuel Injectors. Still haven't got the idle issue fixed. I know you said new injectors fixed you're issue, but what else did you try? Maybe I missed something obvious

I talked with Nick and he confirmed that I can ignore that combination of error codes "The 12v code means nothing since the KO test didn't run to even test the 12v circuit. If your jeep starts, you don't have an injector feed problem." So back to the drawing board. Using the REM to look at vacuum and RPM side by side, RPMs start off around 700, with 16"Hg of vacuum, after a few seconds RPMs drop to the high 400s and vacuum drops to 12"Hg. Then they both go back up to the starting numbers. what would cause the vacuum to drop intermittently like that?

Thanks Ωhm, I don't know how I missed that page. That's exactly what I was looking for! https://nickintimedesign.com/rem-codes-description/ Just putting the link for anyone else who might need it.

Just got my REM in and I'm getting a "no injector 12v" error code. Not really sure where to start trouble shooting that. Not sure if this means it's an issue with the injectors themselves, wiring, or something else. Is there a way to back probe the injectors? Or should I check voltage some where else? I recently replaced the injectors, they're refurbished Volvo 746.

I've been out of town the last few weeks, but I finally got a chance to work on the truck again. Bought this EGR valve https://www.autozone.com/emission-control-and-exhaust/egr-valve/p/duralast-egr-valve-egr4458/28785_0_0 Blew air into it and it seems good. Installed it and I didn't notice a change. I did tip 14, and adjusted the throttle body butterfly to .003" and it's seems to be idling worse. I'll order the the REM some time next month and check the O2 sensor. Any other suggestions in the mean time? 229014545_PXL_20230819_204518402_TS2.mp4

Looking online most of the reviews of aftermarket EGR valves are pretty bad, any recommendations or an I better off trying to find a good one at a junkyard? Sorry, didn't see the post you linked

Took the EGR valve off and I could blow air through it. I'll order a new one and see if that fixes it!

Oh sorry, i misunderstood. I thought you meant checking if the EGR was sealing to the manifold. How would I test if the EGR is sealing internally? Is REM renix engine monitor? https://nickintimedesign.com/shop/ I don't have one yet, but it's on my list

I replaced the gasket for the egr and reseated it. I also replaced the o-ring on the IAC. No change. I checked the O2 sensor according to this post by cruiser https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/how-test-o2-sensor-renix-155971/#post2160456 I only have a digital multimeter so I couldn't test O2 sensor voltage, but I got 11.9 volts on the orange wire 5.0 volts on the black wire 0.5 ohms on the ground Any ideas for next steps? Is it time to make sure the throttle body is set correctly? And it's that tip 14? https://cruiser54.com/?p=94

What do you mean when you say the throttle body is set correctly?

Thanks for the suggestions cruiser and pizzaman, I'll go check on em tomorrow if it doesn't rain all day. Also I was checking my fuel pressure at the rail yesterday and noticed that when the rpms drop the fuel pressure increases from 31 psi to 34 psi and then goes right back to 31 psi when the idling returns to normal. I don't know if that means anything, or if that helps narrow down the potential cause.

I've attached a video, but I don't know if it comes through well. The truck idles between 750-1000 RPM, but occasionally it drops under 750 RPM and sound like its about to stall, then it jump back to 750-1000 RPM I've gone through post on the forums about idling and stalling issues, but so far nothing has worked for me. So far I've: checked Bolts on the intake manifold are tight. New IAC replaced the Vacuum harnesses new fuel pump/filter new spark plugs/wires new Volvo 746 injectors disconnect the vacuum line to the EGR solenoid and plug it Cruiser Tips I've done: 1 – Ground refreshing 2 – C101 connector refreshing 3 – Connector and relay/receptacle refreshing 5 – Checking sensor grounds 6 – Sensor ground upgrade 8 – TPS testing and adjusting 11 – Throttle body and IAC cleaning Any suggestions on what I should check next 2023558656_PXL_20230709_192757433_TS2.mp4

1987 Jeep Comanche short bed 4.0L, AW-4, 2WD, Dana 35, A/C Currently 151K miles on the odometer, but the odometer and speedo, haven't been working recently Red exterior, brown interior that I've painted black Got the truck in 2021, It had electrical issue from botched trailer wiring harness that caused some of the cab wiring harness to melt, and was crashed. Previous owner was my father. Build Date: March 1987 Current Location: the North East I don't drive much, but its my daily driver.