tdtony

During this process I managed to lose the little piece of metal that connects the turn signal switch to the stalk. I'm guessing I'm gonna have to go to a junk yard to get a replacement. Does anyone know what years have that same piece? The manual Eagle shared makes me think it was used until at least 91

Just incase it helps someone else in the future, that piece of metal is the "lock rack preload spring". I've circled in red where it goes.

I took my steering column apart to replace the turn signal switch and while I was in there I decided I was gonna replace the turn signal stalk. I didn't realize it just pulled out, so I removed the wiper housing. Now I've got two problems, while taking it off this black piece of metal fell off something, any one know if this is important and where it belongs? And second I can't seem to get the teeth to line up the for the ignition. Anyone have any advice?

Got the new switch in today and tested it out and compared it to the electrical manual 1 - white - to brake switch 2 - green - Right Rear stop/Turn light 3 - yellow - left Rear stop/Turn light 4 - purple - turn signal flasher 5 - brown - hazard flasher 6 - dark blue - instrument panel and front right turn signal 7 - light blue - instrument panel and front left turn signal For Fog lights - I don't have fog lights so I didn't look into these 8 - black 9 - green 10 - green/Brown with the turn signal stalk in the normal position and the hazard button not pressed you should have continuity between wires 1,2, and 3 Left turn you should have continuity between wires 3, 4, and 7 Right Turn you should have continuity between wires 2, 4, and 6 Hazards you should have continuity between wires 2, 3, 5, 6, and 7 @JYau let me know if that helps you test and diagnose your issue I'm gonna pull the steering column apart this weekend and install the new switch

I just ordered the new switch, so hopefully I'll have I'm update this weekend

Thanks, that's what I assumed, but the Manuel say "out" position so I just wanted to double check

Ohm, if it's not too much to ask, do you have the same manual for 89 and 90? The original cab wiring harness on my truck melted, so I grabbed one at a junkyard from I think an 89 or 90. Its mostly been plug and play, but a few things, like the A/C fan plug have been different

That's amazing ohm, thanks so much! I think that backs up what I was saying above. I Guess I'm pulling the steering column apart. One question, for the hazard switch on the steering column, do the hazard come on when the switch is pushed in, or when is pulled out?

Does anyone have a higher quality version of the wiring diagram? I think it would be really helpful, but the one I linked is kinda hard to read. Also the diagram I linked is for a Cherokee, but I assume Jeep used the same wiring between the mj and xj, or at least similar enough to be useful.

I found this wiring diagram online https://jeep-manual.ru/index.php?page=196 I don't really know how to read it, but from what I can gather, I started probing the connector between the turn signal switch and the wiring harness. I assume that for a left turn signal I should have continuity between, the left front directional light, left rear directional light and directional flasher. For example I should have continuity between the light blue, yellow, and purple. For the right turn signal I'm getting the continuity I expect. For the left turn I'm getting continuity to the wires I expect and the brown wire to the hazard flasher. For the hazards, I'm getting continuity to all front and rear but no flasher. So I'm definitely leaning towards a bad switch. Thanks for the recommendations, I'll take a look at those later this week.

I think my turn signal switch might be bad, but before I dive into pulling the steering column apart I wanted to see if anyone has any other suggestions. With the truck off, if I depress the turn signal stalk I get left turn indicator lights, on the dash and front and rear turn signal, I lift the turn signal stalk I get nothing, no lights or clicking from the relay. With the key in the accessory position, the left and right turn signals work correct with all the correct lights flashing. Regardless of key position, hazards don't work at all, if I press the hazard button while the left turn signal is activated only the left rear turn signal flashes While I was testing everything to write this up, the hazard switched worked correctly one time. I pressed the button, the lights on the dash, front and rear lights flashed. I turned it off and tried to turn it back on and nothing happened. Does this seem like a switch issue, or could it be bad wiring?

I haven't had a chance to drive my truck much, or work on it in the last few weeks, so I'll keep the battery connected and drive it a bit and see if the ECU fixes everything for me. While googling around I found a post where a few people mentioned stalling during deceleration and that a new distributor solved their problems. Is there any way to check if my distributor is good, or should I just go ahead and do cruisers tip 13 about distributer indexing? https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/engine-stalls-when-i-stop-rapid-deceleration-107531/index2/

No problem ohm. I'll test it again this weekend using the EX reading. I just had a realization this morning. I disconnect the battery cause I have a slight parasitic drain that I haven't chased down yet. this is probably causing the ECU to reset right? Which would affect the ability for it to store and change the LTFT?

I uploaded a longer video of the REM. I couldn't get it to stall in the driveway, but even when driving the stalling is intermittent. When I'm decelerating while driving STFT will drop to 0 like in the video, but it will stay in Open loop for 15- 30 seconds before going back to closed loop or it will stall. I can try to get a video of it stalling while I'm driving it, but its kinda hard to record while driving. Watching the video back it seems like the truck switches in closed loop and the STFT drops until the O2 sensor starts updating the A/F ratio. Does that seem right? any idea what would cause the O2 sensor to lag like that?

I got a new NTK O2 sensor from rock auto, it tested about the same as the sensor on the truck ~5.3 ohms. I can't see any difference in how STFT or A/F ratio 1911932160_PXL_20240214_233039879_TS2.mp4

O2 sensor measures 5.2 ohms, so I'll order a new one tonight. My throttle body has a little vacuum leak from the shaft, but my new ones getting delivered tomorrow, so maybe that'll raise the manifold vacuum. Hey stroker, I haven't checked the torque converter, I'll try that tomorrow. Is there a write up on here for how to test it? If not I'm sure I'll find a video on YouTube or something

I bought the O2 sensor a few months ago, before I bite the bullet and buy another one, is there any way to test it? I think I saw a few post saying to check the resistance of the O2 sensor, but another from cruiser saying it wasn't worth it. I check the wiring going to the O2 sensor 11.8 volts on the orange wire, 5 volts on one of the black wires, and .8 ohms to the battery negative terminal on the other black wire. According to cruiser the orange wire should be getting between 12-14 volts. Could that be the issue? And what would cause lower voltage to the orange heater wire?

The A/F ratio swings right along with the STFT. I've attached a video The injector pulse width fluctuate between ~4.9-5.6 MAP is ~14.5-15.3 VAC is ~15.0-15.8 I let the truck idle for about 15 minutes in total and the LTFT was still at 128 The vacuum house coming off the FPR smelled faintly of gas, but didn't see any gas actually in it. Thanks for the help ohm! PXL_20240211_180403511_TS.mp4

When it goes into closed loop the STFT drops to single digits and then settles bouncing between ~30-60. On deceleration it sometimes drops to 0 and goes into open loop. LTFT stayed at 128, but I only drove it for a few minutes. I don't know how long it takes to update

Yeah, I've cleaned the throttle body, replaced the IAC and tightened the manifold bolts. I should probably mention I smoke tested the engine, and after deleting the EGR the only leak was around the throttle body shaft. So I ordered a bored throttle body from stroked jeep that's supposed to be delivered next week. I'm not sure if that's enough of a leak to cause this issue

I fixed my stalling at idle issue by deleting the EGR, but now my truck stalls when decelerating. I checked the CPS based off cruisers tip and I got ~.25 AC Volts. This is below the .5V cruiser says I should get, but I haven't had any issues starting the truck up. Is it worth replacing the CPS or should I be looking somewhere else. Cruiser mentioned that some new CPS' will make .2V out of the box, does anyone have a recommended brand if I do decide to replace it?

Alright, thanks cruiser!

I was at a junk yard yesterday and pulled 2 ECU's. I've read about the 428 ECU's and their better performance so I pulled one. I've read that about the 428 ECU's but its always mentioned that its from either an '89 or '90, but the Vin on the Cherokee was '88 and I believe that it has a manufacturing date is '88 based on the 8844 tag on it. Will I get the increase in horsepower and torque out of this ECU, or is it no better then my '87? I also pulled an ECU ending in 078 out of a '90 Cherokee. based on the 9008 tag I assume it was made in '90. I've seen some mentions of the 078 ECU's on the forum, but I can't find consensus if they are similar to the 428 ECU's or not. Thanks, TDTony

I can't find a part number.

Hey @cruiser54, I figured out that the other end of the power comfort switch wasn't plugged in. But This brings me to another problem. The cab side wiring harness in my truck isn't original. The original wiring harness was melted in a few places, so when I was at a junkyard and saw a Comanche with a cab wiring harness I pulled it and swapped it into my truck. I thought I looked up the VIN and the donor was 1987 4L so I thought it would be a straight swap. The first two photos are from the donor harness, the second two are from the original harness. Both the plugs had continuity with the power comfort switch in their respective harnesses. Is there anyway to figure out what model year the donor harness is from? what year did the other end of the power comfort switch plug change? And are their any other plugs that would have changed? There are definitely some wires that aren't plug in, but I figured those were options that the truck didn't have cause it was a base model. Thanks, Tdtony