MishapMaggie

Thanks!!

Yea they sent an email to finalize the purchase, use a discount code to reduce what was already pre paid: Thank you for your recent pre-order of our ORACLE Lighting Jeep Comanche Flush Mount Taillights. Exciting News! We are getting closer to completion of these parts, and they are estimated shipping to start in early August. In order to guarantee your set is shipped on time, you will need to complete checkout on your pre-order deposit. Please follow the detailed directions below: Click the link below and ADD TO CART. At check out you will see your discount code BALANCECOMANCHE applied. The total you see in your cart is the final balance to be paid on your product, including taxes. This discount code is specific to group buy customers and not eligible for any other products. Failure to check out in a timely manner, will result in a delay in your part's arrival. Any questions on checkout or how to proceed with your pre-order, please email info@oraclelights.com.

Am I reading these emails right, the delivery went from shipping in June to August? I'm waiting on these lights to pass an out of province inspection, because one was melted through... I'm not going to wait until Aug for that... I'll just buy a used one with a billion dollar mark up from ebay so I can get to driving. I'm in a real debate right now over this. Sucks.

Thank you all for the help, after a long night of trying to bleed the system on Tuesday, confirming your suggestions, and getting the same issue over and over, I got a new master today and installed it. My Comanche has brakes for the first time in a long time! Thank you so much for the suggestions!

I greatly appreciate the help, I'm pretty easy on the pedal pushing. I've been in charge of that in all our projects since I could reach the pedals and have fond memories of my dad losing his mind for being too aggressive with the pumping on his fairlane lol. Never did that again.. I'm getting back to it tonight, I had to get my house b*@ch duties done last night. Quite a few people have mentioned a bad master, here and in my trade (but I work with Toyota techs who are younger than me, so they are confused by the ol jeep on many things, you should have seen their faces when I explained TBI.) I respect your guy's opinions greatly. I'll confirm the load valve position and try again and try the bleeding process you suggested. I found a booster rod measuring tool in the tool room, when I asked if I could borrow it my foreman said "What is that? Sure, never used it". So I'll check that too I'm just losing my patience I think, the whole engine Diag was enough for me, but I'm close...so I have to keep trucking! I'm close enough to the smoke it's annoying, especially with the heat but it's cooling off and raining soon, so if all goes well it won't be too painful! Yay Alberta! Thank you all so much for your kindness :) I will report back!

They are on the correct sides, bleeders up. I was hoping I'd had a "doh!" moment...but nope they're good.

I'm sure this has been covered on many threads but none that I've been able to dig into, as a newbie, that have led me down to a path of success. Please tolerate me, as I'm as old as my jeep, and I'm just a damned partsmen whom is clearly over her head these days! Background : My '86, 2.5, 2WD has been sitting in a field since 2005. It was then towed beside a garage that eventually caught fire...tons of melty issues, all have been worked out but this. I bought "Darnit Daisy" in hopes to relieve myself from a JK fuel mileage of 20L/100 (outfitted for overlanding) daily driver that isn't so happy as a daily. Canadian here. :) Issue: . I replaced as much as I could... master, calipers, rear cylinders, new friction, lines from the master to the directional valve under the master. I haven't done the other lines as they cracked fine when replacing the brake hoses and rear cylinders. No leaks. But the front kinda seems to keep pushing air? No leaks visible on the booster area either. I bench bled the master so many times, I've had hands on deck to assist me with bleeding too. The rears are a-ok while bleeding, pumping builds pressure, pedal drops after the cracking, no air in the bleeder tube or in that side of the master, the rears are happy. Once we get to the front, there's no pressure building on the pedal, and no pedal drop on "hold". The front brake portion of the master foams with air. Still, there are no visible leaks anywhere. 100% factory system, from the parts diagrams it all looks bueno. The rear proportioning valve is hanging out and dry, doing its thing and probably having a drink toasting our suffrage. I think I understand the brake bleeding process, passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front, ignition on, crack front, brake light, bleed rear, close front, go back to passenger rear, do it again We can't get past the passenger front. Where do I start diagnosing from here? I'm not looking to get fancy with swaps, deletes or anything that isn't warranted past stock if I don't have to. It's fishing season :) Thank you for any input you may have, I greatly appreciate it. I'm a bit worn on patience with this 'ol gal, and I'd like to see more road and less garage floor these days. I'm pooped trying to sort it out. -Rhonda

I emailed asking for an update but only got a "they're on back order" as a reply.

Hello all! Just picked this Jeep up. It's been sitting in an Alberta Farmer's field since 2005. I'm just starting to re-build it! Currently it is not running, the previous owner said there was a fuel issue, and unfortunately it was parked next to a garage that caught fire. So, there's a bit of melty on it. All in all though it looks pretty clean and I'm excited to start working on it.