Heinri_k

1987 Jeep Comanche 4.0 Inline 6 / (Believed to be) BA - 10. I have not verified / Dana 35 and short wheel base 2 wheel drive. did not see a build date in the door. Still on the road here in Central Florida. Was purchased by a buddy of mine who is fixing some of the smaller issues. Currently having the cooling system changed to open style due to issues with the original closed style. This is the only photo i got so far of it. Red exterior which looks like it was repainted. Under the interior it does appear to have been originally red though. Had burgundy carpet interior that has since been painted black. Has a bench seat as well.

After spending the better half of the night brainstorming and climbing under to look, it hit me. I thought all those hours browsing would tell me a no start should always start with the CPS before firing randomly at it. Sure enough I go under there and see the CPS wire was hanging in my workspace. I reach back and feel a one bolt is missing and the other is loose enough to hand tighten. I dug out another bolt, tightened them both and she fired right up with that perfect idle now. I guess in the perfect storm, an already loose CPS was knocked out enough with the movement in there and sure enough it fixed the issue. If nothing else I hope this helps others in the future!

I replaced the O2 sensor and the IAC together because my original issue was an uneven idle that would fluctuate between 200-700 rpm’s

Just to update, I just completely removed the IAC and unplugged it, leaving the hole open in the throttle body to suck air. It’s still doing it which is now leading me to believe it’s a bigger issue.

Last week I cleaned my throttle body and installed a new IAC and upstream O2 in my 89 4.0. After installing everything worked great and my idle was a perfect 700 rpm. Driving the truck around and it warmed up I noticed my idle would go to 1200-1500 when warmed up. I drove the truck for probably about a 5 days like this and made a 180 mile round trip during this time period with no issues besides the high idle. I dug around on the forums and found that most likely I had a leak on my manifold that was causing this warmed up idle increase. Sure enough, the back bolt was loose and the bottom nut in the back was missing entirely. No big deal, I tightened the bolt and threw a new nut on the bottom and hand tightened them just to see if they would fix the issue and I would retorque everything if it was. I go to start the truck and it’s totally acting up. It barely idles at about 100rpm before misfiring, burping and eventually choking out after a few seconds. When it’s doing this, no amount of opening up the throttle will have any effect. Additionally after I turn it off it stinks of gas. Now I have undone the nut and bolt tightening as well as unhooking the IAC plug to see if either of these fix the issue. No dice. My vacuum lines have all been double checked and we’re completely replaced in May by myself. I have also tried clearing the computer by unplugging the battery and grounding the truck out. Since making this post I have re-tightened the nut and bolt thinking they’re probably not the reason for this and it’s either probably the IAC being faulty or possibly a massive coincidence of the distributor crapping the bed. I’m thinking I’m going to remove the IAC completely and see if I can get an idle at all, but otherwise I’m at the point where I might have to just process of elimination the thing. To me I’m getting the idea it’s either an issue involving lack of air or lack of timing. But I would love and appreciate any insight given. the video I added (if it posts) is what I’m dealing with when it turns over. IMG_1274.MOV

1989 Comanche. 4.0 inline and AX15 tied in with NP231. When I begin my drive, everything is good and functional just fine. The issue only ever Begins after about 20 minutes or more of driving. The issue only occurs when I am either at a dead stop in first or attempting to reverse from a stop. Basically when I let the clutch out and give it gas, the truck jerks violently. It goes away if I give it more gas and pull away, then it shifts just fine through 2nd, 3rd, ect. The jerking feels* like it comes from the rear and some tires I can hear the tires chirp a bit depending on what surface I'm on. I have read a lot on this and I'm thinking either my clutch is going out or my rear main is leaking and causing this. I check my oil frequently and the level doesn't seem to move, but I have noticed small drops of oil on the transmission mount that I can dab up with my finger occasionally. As far as it being the clutch going out, would it not do this cold too? Additionally, to add for general input. I have a Novak transmission mount recently installed and I have checked the motor mounts. I do not believe this to be a mounting issue. Secondly, I have not yet had a chance to check the transmission fluid or the transfer case fluid. Though I do have plans to change them soon. I do not think they would be the cause for this. My clutch adjustment seems to be fine. And I do not believe this to be a driveshaft issue, but I did recently change my rear leaf springs with factory height. It's had a 3inch front spring lift since I purchased it. Any input is very much appreciated.

Appreciate it! I really love the color as well. I'm going to try and repaint them similar if I can. The fenders luckily are metal. The rack and other "chrome" parts are actually just high polished stainless, like the wheels.

Immediately after getting it moving, I noticed something wasn't right. Additionally, I love a good mystery and I wanted to know why this bike, which internally and mechanically was in very good condition, was just parked to rot for 45+ years. And as I did find, the shift return spring was broken. Making it kind of difficult to shift gears. Luckily for me, Kawasaki used the same spring for nearly every small bike of that era. The spring just came in a couple days ago, so that's next on the list. I also ordered a new float kit for the carb to do while I'm in there since I noticed it leaks a little.

I'm not the best at photography documentation, but so far I have -done a full carb clean -resealed the case -tore out all the rotted air filter -cleaned the rust out of the tank and put a new petcock on it -new throttle and cable as the old one was destroyed -took the wheels off and cleaned them up with some help from my lady and getting them re tired

Hey Guys! I'm fairly new here and figured I'd like to just document my progress and share with y'all my Kawasaki F7 I recently got. I got this bike about 2 months ago and it's just been a little side project for me to tinker with in my free time. It's definitely a fixer upper from what you can see. I picked up for $300 with high hopes. After less than a week, I had it running. Less than 2 weeks, my wife was riding it around in the field behind our house. At this point it starts and moves just fine.

Yikes. I read good things about flowkooler and decided to order one. Mines in the mail. Hopefully I don't have similar issues...

Any possibility this could be an O2 sensor or idle control sensor?

That's so cool. Thank you again, I really appreciate it. Love learning more about the mystery of this truck

Thank you sir! With the build date being that early in 88, would it technically be an 88 or just a very early 89 in your opinion?

1989 Jeep Comanche 4.0l engine from I am told a 1991 Cherokee. Original engine was 2.5l I believe. 4wd with NP231 transfer case. 5 speed manual AX15. Not the original either I suspect. Short bed and charcoal grey/black. Dana 30 in the front, 35 in the rear. I was also told that the dashboard is from a Cherokee, seats and added center console are from a 2 door Cherokee. This truck runs and drives great. I just bought it about 2 months ago and have a lot planned for it. It is absolutely 99.8% rust free. The odometer/speedometer does not work but the last mileage was around 176k. Unknown if that's to the donor Cherokee or mine. This Comanche is happily residing in Central Florida