FlyingXJ

Ok ill change it, as for the headbolts aren't you supposed to change them when taking the head off? Or can you resue them?

For it just has a STP filter. Also any one know wheres a good place to buy the head bolts for my year of jeep?

Update: So took it to a buddy of mine that had a lift, and checked the flexplate and flexplate bolts. Flexplate was good no crakes, the bolts where all in and I'm glad I decided to check them while they where all in they weren't exactly tight. So I took them out cleaned them, put lock tight on them and tighten as hard as I could. So after that I decided that since it was up in the air to change the oil and filter. Once I did and started it up the noise was very quiet and now took on the noise of a tick when at idle and went away once warmed up or at higher revs. Which me and buddy concluded that it was most likely that the noise all along was a lifter(or lifters) that went bad.

@cruiser54 what is the torque specs the flexplate bolts are suppose to be at?

@Pete M sort of one of the guys at our shop let me borrow his and even then we came up with different opinions of where it was coming from. I heard more noise coming from between the front of the bell housing and the rear of the engine, while he says the nosie is coming from the front and echoing throughout the pan toward the rear. @Eagle my oil pressure at cold start stays at 40psi -60psi when going down the road. When it warms up i would say by the stock oil pressure guage 20-30 psi when warm and 60 psi when going down the road. As for the oil I don't know but I am going to change the oil to the stock oil it is suppose to have, the filter is a normal autozone filter that fits it.

So was driving to work when this noise popped up when driving was a bit loud at first at idle and driving. Put got quieter later in the day and can be heard at idle and low rpm but whent away when above 2,000 rpm. I ask around and I got so many different responses ranging from piston slap, flexplate/flexplate bolts, sticky lifters, timing chain to water pump bearing. The only one I'm ruling out is the piston slap since I watched a couple of videos of 4.0l with piston slap and it was a lot louder then my nosie (then again I could be wrong). 20211002_114429_1_1.mp4

So just got my ac recharged only to find it is coming from the defroster. Followed a diagram showing the vacuum line that connects to the ac control only to find it broken and pushed in behind the the firewall. So after checking some more I found out that the dash has to be removed to fix the line that goes through the firewall. So as the title says does Any one have pics, videos or links on how to remove the dash on pre 96 xjs?

@Minuit ok thats what I wanted to know since the door locks share the same plug as with the windows.

So hi new here, so I have a 91 xj and I'm planning on doing a power to manual windows conversion. But i also have power locks, so my question is will I be able to unlock and lock the doors like normal just with out the power function? Or do I need to also do a power lock to manul lock to? Any information would be helpful since I can't find any info on what happens when someone does power to manual windows while also having power locks?