Manche Man

See, this is what I wish I'd have done... only thing is most of the pre-assembled and bled systems had the master that didn't mount to the firewall properly... so I bought some Amazon parts and converted the line to fit the new slave.

Much heavier? I feel as mine will never quite be AS heavy... but, nothing drags, nothing smells, and nothing leaks..

Alright! So, been a while, sorry guys! I decided that most likely it was the throwout bearing, SO, Because I wanted to external slave swap it anyways, I took a few days (more like evenings through midnight, brrrr) and dropped the tranny, collected the parts for the swap (F N Jeep outta Colorado Springs, GREAT guys and if they don't have your part, they will soon. Even had MJ tail lights!! I don't live there, but they ship) and then got to it! Swap was mad easy, only issue was lacking the equipment to drop and install the tranny. Got a new throwout bearing, pilot bearing, clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, throwout bearing retainer, and a slave cylinder (that is a story for another post). Swapped it all in there and after taking forever to figure out how to adapt the new clutch line to the old slave..... again, for another post, got it all running and complete. For the 30 miles it worked, no shuddering, screeching, grinding when going into reverse, or anything else! Most likely my slave cylinder wasn't working completely and the clutch was too aggressive (weird wearing/burn marks on the clutch and flywheel/pressure plate. They all were worn real hard in one or two places but good everywhere else. So, while I should still get new bushings and rubber for my suspension and the rear end, for now everything seems fine. Aside from that clutch All of you have been super helpers! I appreciate this community so much. I'll keep you all posted! -Cheers, MancheMan

*smacks head* Sorry, your question makes sense now haha. No, didn't even think of checking the rear u-bolts. I'll do that when I get home tomorrow! Thank you!

No, I've been able to jack it up and turn the wheels freely by hand

Rear bushings are old and worn, but not completely worn out. Haven't checked shackle bushings though. Do you mean u-joints or Ubolts? Thr joints have the evermost bit of play in them, but BARELY.

Ok, went with a friend.. as they slowly took off on a paved road, I watched the rear axle shake violently back and forth causing the violent shuddering. Axle hop? Only happens when going from a full stop to barely moving. Gets worse as rpms increase but goes away at around 2/3mph... I never shortened the driveshaft after swapping in the AX15.. is that maybe an issue? Lost here lol. Thanks all!

The trans mount was a parts one from a Cherokee. Blue I think of it, it might not have all the bolts in, securing it to the body (looks and feels real tight in there tho). I'll check the engine and tranny mounts tomorrow. Bad u join in the front probably was making the clanking noise, hopefully just have to deal with the drive line now.

Hey all, with my AX-15 Swap, I'm happy to be driving the jeep again, but I'm finding more and more gremlins rearing their heads. First off, the AX15 shudders a decent amount while either in neutral or in drive (I have the floor and everything taken out so I can see the tranny itself shake) The harder I drop the clutch in neutral, the more it shakes. The harder and more suddenly I hit the gas while driving, the more it shakes. If I gently let the clutch out or press the gas, it doesn't shake near as much. What's my issue? Never resurfaced the flywheel during the swap, probably missed a few other details as it was my first time. Second up! When taking off, no matter how lightly I let off the clutch, the jeeps rear end seems to shudder. Not so when shifting while on the move, only when taking off. Almost seems like a tire is spinning out... one guy told me that's just an aggressive clutch, but that shouldn't make the rear end shudder EVERY TIME, right? (Also have clicking and clunking in the front end while turning and hiting bumps) Appreciate the help, sorry for the long, two/three-pronged post. 1988 jeep comanche base; BA/10- AX15 internal slave Swap, NP231 21-23 spline input gear swap, 4x4, 235/75/15 tires. Stock height.

Alright! Got it figured out. pulled out the volt meter and decided to test the BACK spades of the windshield wiper/turn signal 4.8 Amp circuit breaker connector. Got the magical 12 volts I wasn't getting when testing the FRONT of the spades. Turns out after jiggling it around a piece of the spade connection fell out, so the circuit breaker wasn't making a good connection. Cut it, wired up mew spade connections, plugged it in and presto! Used a zip tie to pin it up and away from the pedals and we are back in business! Thanks all for your help! Hope this helps someone!

That would be awesome! I could definitely use two at least! I have quite long legs and have to wear boots often so yes, these poor guys get kicked to pieces quite a lot.

Yes they stay on after the car goes off. Same as brights, they work perfectly regardless of turn signal issues.

Alright, so in this case it would be beneficial to trace those wires and test them at either end? Also seal it up good instead of duct tape like the PO utilized

Alright, any reason why the brown wire was spliced together? I'll snip the blue one to get it out of the way. And I know what you're talking about now Cruiser, thanks for the link! When the weather clears up I'll get outside again and check the connections. I think I'll also drop the steering column (for the 4th time) and check anything else up there (Burnt/melted connections) --Cheers

Ok I assume you're talking about the big blue one on top of the column? Found this guy which seems to control the brights. The brown wire leading from it is spliced into two brown wires disappearing into the abyss of my wiring.. And side note: does anyone know where this little blue wire is supposed to go? Thanks Cruiser! Thanks all

Not exactly sure what the old circuit breaker was rated at, but the junkyard cherokee roughly the same year had the fuse in it so I guessed it shouldn't hurt too much (realizing the difference between a 4-5.5 amp circuit breaker and a 20A fuse...) I'll be looking for a new circuit breaker for sure, any suggestions on where to find a replacement?

Hey guys, was working on the jeep (88 comanche base, manual 4.0 no cruise no tilt column) to get the front turn signal lights/ bulbs working and now my turn signals won't work. Emergency flashers work fine, and left turn signal stays on solid until I switch on the left turn signal. My windshield wipers and fluid spray doesn't work either. Had to replace the circuit breaker a while back with a 20A (looks like a huge fuse) from junkyard cherokee (worked perfectly until now) no blown fuses, no power to the turn signal fuse or the circuit breaker.. Lots of people talked on other threads about the bulbs and sockets, but I replaced those with new ones so I'm sure that's not the issue.. Any help is greatly appreciated!! Cheers

Exactly what I found out! Personally I just use 4th gear as it's closer to Reverse. But thats a slight relief that it's just the nature of the AX15. (The BA/10 Didn't grind when putting it in reverse so long as the vehicle was fully halted.) Anyways, take care and I'll see you guys on the vacuum line threads lol

Alright, I know it's been quite a while, but I figured I'd wrap this post up. Me and the backyard duo swapped I the AX15 a be get everything hooked up and working. Swapped input gears in the np231 and now the jeep lives again! Clutch engages way too quick for my liking and it seems to grind when you put it in reverse unless you ensure the tranny is no longer spinning at all. Other than that though it's time to put the interior together and find where my vacuum leaks are coming from. Thanks for all the help guys. I'm bound to be back here for more later. Feel free to ask questions, but I will warn you, me and the guys used a lot of YouTube and simple "let's try it" to get this thing where it is. Learned a ton but definantly messed up some things I'll have to pay for down the road. Cheers!

Ahhh that would have made things nice and sweet! But oh well, guess I needed the ax15 regardless. Got the correct output spline for the Tcase now so all I am waiting on that I know I need is the Trans bracket. Other than whole new lines, clutch, and slave cylinder, you guys know of anything else I need?

That's currently the route I've gone right now. Got an internal slave AX15 for a decent price and am now trying to figure out what I need to swap it in... all the lines were cut off of it lol

No idea. Just buried the throttle and asked the BIG Man upstairs for help

I'm in the Kalispell, Montana region. Oof, forgot to follow this topic and life got busy

Hello all, Last year I blew the peugeot ba10 in my 1988 comanche and have been looking for an AX15 to replace it. Found one with the engine recently pulled for 700 so I got it (wanna sell the engine, I don't need it). However the AX15 is an internal slave cylinder setup... Currently top broke to afford to swap it to the external right now and already plan on putting a new slave cylinder in it. Won't use the jeep a WHOLE lot, but I will put around 5-7k miles on it a year, maybe a bit less.. I've looked at the AX15 swap threads and none really have the internal slave cylinder AX15 Transmission... yes I get it that it is a whole lot easier to replace and service, but I just can't afford it right now. Maybe when I'm outta college. What are the parts I need to make the swap? Already have the transmission mount (came with the tranny. Oh, by the way, it was pulled from an xj.. don't know the year. 91 maybe?) Don't know much else of what needs to be done. Tranny has 145k on it and the guy I bought it from said the clutch was nice and strong so I probably don't HAVE to replace it. What else? Oh and I'm doing this in my driveway on Jacks or ramps 🥴 Thanks guys!!

Yeah it's a 4.0 manual. Checked the voltage at each end of the fuse on the fuse box. Haven't tried to detatch the cable entirely.. but holding the throttle closed still let's it idle around 1200 rpm