BP_MJ_978

jdog, that would make sense based on the length and possible places the wires could reach/plug into. Unfortunately I don’t have any pictures of me fuse box to reference. Is that something you’ve seen before?

Thanks everyone for all info. Unfortunately the previous owner seems to have been a self-taught electrician. The wiring diagram does not match what’s in my Jeep and I do not have a brake light switch on my pedal, see pictures. I do not appear to have to dash/cluster lights, so I tried the replacing the fuse, but no luck there either. To make matters worse, now my turn signals do not work either, but the hazards still work. I’m not sure where to go from here, does anyone have any other ideas? Thanks in advance!

Hi all, Looking for some help here, my Comanche currently has no brake lights, but all other running lights and the signal lights work. I believe the issue is electrical, but I am not sure how to diagnose further. My Comanche has a 96’ XJ brake booster and master cylinder swap with an adjustable proportioning value instead of the OEM brake switch. Unfortunately all of this work was done by previous owner, and I do not know much about electrical work. The connection at the prop block is good, but it is very difficult to follow the wire back into the dash. I’ve looked up wiring diagrams and pictures from other posts, but can’t find anything about how to wire this kind of set up. Does anyone have any info or pictures of how they did this wiring? Some other useful background, I recently removed both the lower and upper dash panels, as well as the instrument cluster to do another repair. When I put everything back I noticed two new loose wires, pictured below (one the casing is tan/yellow). Is it possible I disconnected an electrical connection somewhere that could be causing this? My speedometer and odometer also stopped working after I pulled the cluster, but all the other gauges still work. Could these issues be related? Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you everyone for all the info. I finally had some time to do some tinkering and it turns out it was just a poor connection at the starter relay, so she’s back and running now. I needed to replace the high beam switch, so that kind of worked out anyways! Thanks again everyone.

Hi all, I recently ran into a problem trying to start my Jeep. When I turn the key the lights on the dash all come on and you can hear the fuel pump running, but the engine does not crank. I tested my battery and starter with a voltmeter and everything is in good working order. I was able to start the Jeep using screwdriver on the starter posts. Correct me if I am wrong, but to me this means my problem is somewhere between the key cylinder and the starter. I replaced my ignition lock cylinder, but still no crank. Based on videos and research I have done, it seems like the ignition switch is the most likely culprit. This is where it gets interesting, I took off the lower dash panel and the found that the ignition switch was not in the stock location. I followed the metal rod down the column to what appears to be some different type of ignition switch, see attached pictures. I know my Jeep has a lot of parts from a 96’ Cherokee, but this does not look like a Cherokee switch either. It was on the opposite side of the column as the stock one. The only marking on the part says “2411”, and Google searching did not find anything useful. So, bottom line I have two questions: 1. Does anybody know what kind of switch this is? 2. Has anybody had a similar issue and know any other potential culprits? Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!

Eagle, sorry for the late reply, I haven’t had much time to get out and do any looking or wrenching around with it. No, I had no idea I had an adjustable proportioning valve. After looking at it some more it’s actually from Summit Racing (You can’t see in the pictures, but it says Summit right on the side), so I was able to find some info/literature about it online starting from Summit. I do have an FSM, so I’m going to print out what I found and keep it in there. I could be wrong, but from what I’ve read the valve can be used to operate the rear brake lights, but it is not for the brake warning system. It’s tough to see in the photos I posted before, but the front brake lines are connected as they should be, according to the manufacturers website. Here’s what I found: https://www.classicperform.com/Instructions/PDF/APV-DB.pdf I really appreciate you taking the time to respond and research all of this. I started this thread off by saying I don’t know much about the Jeep, but I’ve certainly learned a lot already! Thank you very much!

Picked this up a few weeks ago, came off a mid-90s Mazda B-Series pickup with a short bed. The dimensions were a little smaller, you can see its about 1/2” to an 1” too narrow on the sides, but the cab angle fits pretty well.

I figured it out! Thank you for both very much for your replies. Eagle, thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Being born in 97, I don’t know much about switches from the 50s and 60s. Turns out the electrical connection had come completely undone. All I had to do was slide it back onto the two small posts on the switch and I’m back in business!

Hi, I’m having some issues with my brake lights, both stopped working simultaneously. I’ve only owned the a Jeep for a about 2 months now, so I don’t know a ton about it, but I know both brake lights worked for inspection a month ago. I know this topic has been discussed before, but I’ve done some searching on here and haven’t found anything that has fixed the problem yet. I check the electrical connection behind the drivers side rear wheel, the prongs were clean and appear to be working. I checked all the bulbs and all are working. Headlights, taillights, running lights, both directionals/flashers and reverse lights all work. I checked all fuses, including the haz/stop fuse, all appear to be in good, working order. After doing some research, it appears to have an upgraded master cylinder and brake booster, shown in the pictures below. From other pictures I’ve seen, it looks like the MC and brake booster are out of an XJ (would make sense, Jeep has other XJ parts swapped in by previous owner). However, there is no brake light switch on the pedal, as shown circled in the pictures. All the write ups and pictures I’ve seen show the brake light switch attached to the brake pedal. Where else could the switch be? Has anyone seen a set up like this before? I’m thinking the switch is likely the cause of my issues, but I can’t be positive without finding. I’ve gone through the obvious culprits, but if anyone knows of any other potential causes that I haven’t checked yet, let me know. Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated!

1988 Jeep Comanche Eliminator 4.0L AX-15 5-speed manual transmission with an NP242 transfer case. High pinion Dana 30 front end and Chrysler 8-1/4“ rear end, both with 4.10 gears. 113” wheelbase Build date unknown, sticker is worn and doors are not original. VIN search came up with no conclusive results Currently located in North Central Massachusetts Registered, inspected by and on the road 4” lift and 31” tires. Pro Comp round fog lights and tube front and rear bumpers. Exterior is black, interior is grey, leather bucket seats. Current owner is me!