Phager

He's got more in the flares then I got in mine...including what I paid for the truck itself :D Pat

Actually I had that happen to my Isuzu Trooper II. Pretty funny actually, since it had a burnt valve an was only running on 3 cylinders in the first place, managed to make it another 15 miles to work so I could fix it though. To this day I have no idea why it happened, but I suspect that it had worked loose due to vibration. Pat

Awesome! That was just what I was looking for. Thanks for the help everyone! Pat

Thanks BeaterJeep! I think maybe I wasn't clear enough, the head unit powers the speakers (and amp) no problem, so I know the speaker wires are hooked up OK. The problem is, the head will cut out (The display goes out and no sound is produced) but the head is still getting some power as the amp remains powered (I verified this by pulling the harness from the head, and I could here the sub "pop" from the amp powering down). It also stays powered when the ignition is switched off, although it dosen't do this when the head is fuctioning normally. After pulling the head, I noticed the wire splices are just wrapped with electrical tape, and one connection is two wires from the head (Switched 12v and dimmer, I believe) spliced in to a single wire in the dash, and this connection has some exposed wire, which is where I think the proble is originating from. I'm just trying to figure out what went where from the factory so I can make sure that the connections are where they're supposed to be before I finalize all the connections. Thanks again for the help! Pat

Hi all, I recently bought an '87 MJ, and I was wondering if anyone could clue me in on the color coding on the radio wiring, specifically the color of the constant 12v, switched 12v, ground and dimmer. The person I bought it from installed an aftermarket head unit, and did a real hack job on the wiring, so I want to splice the various wires from the new head into the factory harness. Thanks for the help! Pat