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squeekwull

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About squeekwull

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    Jeeper

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    Male
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    Minneapolis, MN

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  1. 1988 Jeep Comanche SWB Engine / Trans / Transfercase / Front axle / Rear axle / Wheelbase: Original: 2.5L / AX-4 4spd manual / NP231 (I think?) / D30 / D35 / 113"wb Current: 1998 4.0L / 98 AX-15 5spd / NP231 / D30 / D35 / 113" Build date: Unknown, built in the Toledo, Ohio plant Current Location: Minneapolis, MN Status: On the road, as a project. 6.5" Iron Rock Rock-Link Pro kit, D44 front & rear, chromoly shafts, aussie locker up front, detroit locker out back, 35" MTs of some kind, 15x10 beadlocks of some kind Notes: Stock front engine skid plate. White exterior, burgundy interior (mostly gone, XJ interior & dash swap 90% complete. Current owner: ME!
  2. Hey y'all! I had an account here years ago (almost a decade!) when I was in college, but don't remember the username or email it was associated with, so I'm back with a new username, and more importantly a new project MJ! Chassis: 1988 SWB. Originally had a 2.5L/4spd/4WD setup Previous-previous owner (PPO) swapped in from a 1998 XJ: 4.0L HO AX15 5spd NP231 TC XJ dash/interior XJ center console XJ overhead console XJ bucket seats XJ power doors/mirrors (not installed yet) Has a Dana 30 up front and a 35 in the rear. Currently it doesn't start, I believe just because of the clutch safety switch. Waiting on an OBDII scanner to pull the codes to make sure before I order parts. Also the brake booster vacuum connector broke, so I'm gonna pick up the doorman rebuild kit soon. May just jump the CSS wires to get it started and see if there are any immediate concerns. PO used her as a DD for 2.5years prior to the clutch master/slave cylinder assembly going out, then potentially damaging the CSS wiring. Oil change, get rid of the cheapo microguard filter for a WIX. Check plugs and make sure they're champion truck copper plugs (RC12LYC) and not something hotter. Plug wires seem decent, need to also check cap/rotor. Current project build plans: Rust: PPO did POR15 much of the cab interior, which is quite helpful Patch both holes in the floorpans. Driver's side is pretty minor, passenger is slightly larger, but I think I'll be able to just use 18ga sheetmetal without having to get formed floorpan replacements Some more POR15 and then Rhino line the cab floors (not gonna carpet) patch bed rust out above wheelwells, hopefully again I can just use 18ga pieces strip, POR15, then black Rhino-line up to the trim line running the length of the truck, also the truck bed strip, POR15, then forest green (maybe Rhino-lined, maybe not) paint above the trim line, hood, cab, etc POR15 underboy where needed then underbody coating (the road salt is nuts out here in the Twin Cities!) Axles: Front: Dana44 HP (will probably truss a bit), chromoly shafts, aussie locker Rear: Dana44 (likely, may do Ford 8.8 if I have trouble finding a 44) trussed, chromoly shafts, air locker, disc brakes Wheels/Tires: Cragar Soft 8s, 35" M/Ts (Likely BFGs, but will depend on pricing/sales when I'm ready for 35s) Suspension/Lift: Front: 6" lift with long arms, undecided on 3-link vs 4-link atm Rear: Was originally going to just go SOA with potentially longer shackles to get to 6", however it appears the passenger side front leaf mount had rusted out, and was re-welded, sorta kinda in the same place, so I may go with a 4 link system with coils, but haven't decided on that either.
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