Killernoise

1989 Jeep Comanche Pioneer Long Bed Can't find much on VIN... ORIGINALLY: RENIX 4.0, 2WD AX15 transmission, 2WD, Dana 30 "front axle", Dana 35 rear axle, 3.05 gear ratio. Location; Oregon As of 3/10/2020 this truck is back on the road. I have been working to restore it, so far I have pulled the running gear and swapped in; AX15/231 From 94 Cherokee D30 Front 4.10 Gear D20 from an 86 MJ 4.10 Gear All new open cooling system Alternator Water Pump cap/rotor - plugs/wires This truck was sitting under piles on piles of garbage at a hoarders house, I dug it out and managed to get it started. Last registered in 07. Offered 600 and they took it, I actually drove this thing home.. 97% rust free thanks to the blanket of garbage?? xD because of it sitting so long it was unreliable and needed a lot of parts replaced. still need a front driveline but I can focus on replacing steering and all the cosmetics (paint, interior ect)

I'm pretty sure I have it backwards with the bend at the slave, I was in a hurry and tired and wanted it done. Thinking about it now, it makes sense for the bend to be at the master because I lost a lot of hose by it sticking up and then dropping down and around the booster.

Thank you for the replies, i'm 99% sure that TJ fitting is what I need and I just ordered one. I figured I was doing something wrong, I also am pretty sure I have the braided hose on backwards and thats why its having a hard time reaching.

The kid I got looks exactly like yours, The issue I had with it was that the line wasn't exactly long enough, and the fitting for the slave cylinder was to big and didn't match the hole. I did try to grind down the tip and got it in place but the rest was smaller so it just pissed fluid out. I got the hose connected but its stretched pretty tight. I wonder if I just had the wrong slave fitting and if they have what I need individually. My master is new, I also have a new master for a 94 cherokee that came with my slave. The 94 holes don't lign up and i'd rather keep it as stock as possible so I will be looking through their fittings and hopefully I can get one soon.

I've got everything together my only issue is that i can't connect the clutch line from the old master cylinder to a newer style slave. I spent 85 bucks on a kit from advanced adapters that was supposed to work but it doesn't. I can't seem to find anything on it.. i bought a pre bled system fit a 94 cheokee that's what year the trans is from. The master almost fits but i think the bolt holes are just slightly offset. Best bet to drill out the holes in the master and try that way? The rod connector is a different size though i think, so i don't think it will connect to the pedal. What have you guys done to get this job out of the way? Thanks

Custom cut driveline fits the rear of the comanche. Just need a new crossmember because mines to bent and custom clutch line (both in the mail) and it'll drive again. Then i can work on all the cosmetic issues like the giant @#$%ing hole in the seat 😂

I have a pre bled master slave with line for a 94 but looking at it it didn't seem like the holes would line up properly

Thats basically what this kit is it comes with a braided line that has 3 different fittings to adapt the new to the old.

On another note, I found what I think will work to adapt the old style master cylinder to the new style slave. It is a custom braided line with fittings on it to adapt them. I don't know for sure if this is going to work but it says it does an a YJ on a thread i read so I'm hoping its the same otherwise i waisted 85 bucks lmao

Alright ladies and gentlemen. The crossmember i hot thats for an ax15 fit almost perfectly. The bolt holes still don't align right. From what i can tell the crossmember will bolt with one or 2 bolts on each side which is fine, mine isn't working right because i can tell its clearly bent... so i need another one. After installing the crossmember as good as i could ( new mount, and only one side bolting on) its basically in place with a jack holding it up. Because my trans isnt rammed into my floor board now i was able to install the shifter!!! Everyone said i would need a new trans tunnel cover plate but mine fits perfectly which means the 2wd trans that was in it was a factory ax15 2wd version. Saved time and money there. So for this project right now i just need a new crossmember, drivelines made, clutch hooked up sense i went from internal slave to external. If anyone has any ideas how to get the newer style clutch hooked up to the older style let me know otherwise ill end up having to do some custom crap. I also need 4x4 linkage and shift handle stuff and it'll be good to go. I got it running today and watched the tcase outputs spin everything seemed to work great just didnt want to shift around to much without a clutch.

I know at least the driver side motor mount is cracked pretty bad. The passenger side one doesn't looked cracked but they look kinda pulled at a weird angle but not by much. I do plan on replacing them both once the weather starts getting better. I haven't had time to put in the crossmember yet either, hopefully this weekend I can get that done and installed.

I am getting an actual ax15 crossmember today, I'm hoping that helps align things better.

I think at this point my only real options are to just get the correct crossmember, and mount and if that doesn't help I'll have to just cut a hole for the shifter and make new drivelines which i have to do that anyway...

Everywhere i look it all says the bellhousing is the same the only difference is they added the hole for external slave. I don't think I've ever read any different. The old ba10 is barely shorter not enough of a difference though. I do wish i kept the 2wd ba10 to do measurements off of but that things long gone. From the day i started this thread till now i haven't gotten any closer, except i installed the starter. Lol

I see no identifying numbers on the ax15, the midplate is definitely aluminum i have no doubt it's an ax15

I Know you guys are probably getting frustrated with delayed replies, but I do work full time 12hr shifts. Please have patience with me. It's also winter and pissing rain 24/7 and its not exactly ideal to go crawling around under it in the weather. I do not think this is an AX5, I have an AX5 in my 97 TJ and its much smaller. I will test it just to put you at ease though. While I'm down there ill bring a flashlight and i'll take pics of everything that i can. You might be right it might not be from a 94 but an AX15 is still an AX15 lol

What would the correct crossmember do as far as moving the motor trans back farther? If i have to pry the $#!& out of it to get it all to move back so the crossmember will fit either something is wrong or something was wrong lol i do BELIEVE i tried to use a ax15 crossmember and the holes didn't line up i had to use the ba10 to get it somewhat bolted in. can't REMEMBER FOR CERTAIN THOUGH TO MANY JEEPS

Driver side mount is really hard to see. You can't tell but the rubber has a decent sized crack in it and it looks like the rubber is pulled back kinda far. It doesn't help me, but I measured from the valve cover to the support bracket above the radiator maybe that will help one of you see if its back to far?

So, if i'm back about an inch to far, the motor mounts could be the issue. I suspect that.. I will go look at the mounts soon.

Sorry everyone, I was getting an email with each reply from you guys and then it stopped I figured the thread died out. Obviously I'm quite frustrated with whats happening, and I am not thinking clearly here. I live in Oregon, its been very rainy and just bad weather in general so i have not gotten a chance to go outside and take a peak. I will start with looking at the motor mounts so see if they have ever been modified (doubt it though) or if the bushings are completely shot and letting everything move. As far as the crossmember, yes its still the BA10s factory. I wasn't givin the correct XMember with the AX15 when I got it. The F/R drivelines are actually from a 86 2.4 V6 4x4 long bed Comanche. I wasn't sure if they would fit and I did have my doubts. So i'm not to set back by that. I am sure I can find some correct length ones after I get everything else set up right.

I'm not sure what most of the things people are saying have anything to do with the fact that the transmission itself is way to far back. If I pull off the tcase and pull off the crossmember and just hold it up with a jack, the trans itself while being bolted to the engine will still be back to far for me to do anything with it.

I'm not sure why the tc matters because the tans doesn't line up either lol I'm not worried about drivelines i can make new ones

There's no tag on the TC anymore, but I did pull it off and on a few times before installing and it fits fine, I also got this AX15 and tcase together from a buddy that pulled them from a 94 so they were mated at factory. The last pic shows that the motor and trans are flushly mounted and tight.

I believe i had a ba10 in it before. I got the drivelines from a 4x4 comanche. I can get a xj crossmember pretty easy around here. As far as the input shaft goes i measured the depth of the hole in the back of the crank with the pilot in the hole. It tapered. At the deepest part of the hole there was still not enough room. The tip of the shaft was cut just enough, it didnt affect any splines. Based on measurements it is still in the pilot bearing and seated correctly. I cut maybe 3/16 off of the tip of the shaft.

Hello, I have a lot of issues... I bought a 89 2WD 4.0L Comanche a while back. I pulled the trigger on converting it to 4x4 and while doing that I was able to find a AX15 with the transfer case from a 94 Cherokee. I pulled the front and rear axle out of a 87 4x4 Comanche that was thrashed, pulled the 2WD trans and TCase out. Here's where it gets kinda funky... Skip to HERE'S WHERE I'M STUCK IF YOU DON'T WANT TO READ ABOUT INPUT SHAFT LENGTH THAT I SOLVED I tried for about 3 days to get the transmission to slide on (after replacing all the clutch components of course). I had issues with the pilot bearing but did find one that was a nice fit after some research. Having tested that the inside diameter was right by simply sliding on the input shaft before installing it in the crank I knew that wasn't going to be an issue. I slid the input shaft through the clutch and it stopped about 3/4 of an inch from mating to the motor. 3 days later and a lot of head scratching i decided to cut the tip off the the input a little to see what it would do and it went on further.... So I did some measuring and cut it off appropriately, it did bolt up just fine after that. ----------> HERE'S WHERE I'M STUCK... <---------- The crossmember is roughly 4 to 6 inches back to far to mount all 4 bolts, I could only get 2 in. The rear driveline is 4 to 6 inches to long. The front driveline is 4 to 6 inches to short. Where the shifter goes through the trans tunnel is 4 to 6 inches back towards the rear to far I can't even get the shifter on the transmission. I have been stuck here for months, everything I read states it should all bolt up, the transmissions are the same length ect ect. Was I supposed to use the old bellhousing or something? Any incite would be AMAZING!