Aidenmoreno3

I really want to! Make the grey vinyl that same perforated suade material and then the middle tweed that checkerboard. I think they’ll look sharp

No I got some 1/4in hardboard from Home Depot and traced the one ones onto it for a more rigid and durable door panel

Good afternoon guys! wanted to share some progress I made with my custom interior I’m trying to build and this is kinda the first big step. I always hated the basic look of the Comanche interiors and wanted to make something of my own. After 2 weeks of gathering fabrics, glue, 8 long hours of work, and hand sewing the fabrics for one door card, I have made my drivers side not boring! I’ll be doing the same thing to the passenger side tomorrow and probably won’t have time to complete it but we’re making progress! I'm trying to figure out how to make the standard crank handle fit and I think I’m just gonna have to make a strait cut in it and shorten it about 1/2in, plastic welding it back into place.

Was driving around my old hometown of Murietta in Southern California and I found this gem! It looked mostly stock but it was awesome to pull up next to it and snap a few photos. Unfortunately I didn’t get to see the owner but maybe they’re on here!

Hello all! i wanted to share my story, mainly because it has a happy ending. The other week i came out to find my Comanche in my apartment parking spot on bricks like a 90s TV show. They had taken my 15” pro comp vintage wheels from the previous owner and my 32” BF Goodrich tires that had some good life still left in them. At the end of the day I wasn’t too mad about losing the wheels as I was about having to pay the new wheel and tire price. Well, after a long stressful week, I have new wheels and tires! Posting this as a PSA for you guys living in big cities like me. Apparently I’m the 30th person to have this happen to them in northern San Diego. I’ve invested in advanced wheel locks now so hopefully I can sleep a little better knowing that they’re secure to my car. threw a couple pics so you guys can see how absurd the situation was and how nice the new tires are. I went with a newer brand of wheel the 4wd parts guys recommended nomad 501 convoys. and since I had BFGs on before I got 33x10.5 15r tires to throw on them. I’m very happy with the results as I’ve wanted black rims and 33s for some time now.

To answer your original question, it’s the part of the harness that plugs into the engine harness that’s incorrect. It looks like if I can find the engine side pigtail can splice that harness into the one I have and I should be plug and play after that

@Eagle_SX4 I believe you’re right that one of those goes to the cruise control. Thank you for that picture also massive help in my look for that interm harness! @gogmorgo sounds like this is gonna be quite the undertaking. And unfortunately no I do not have the original but the harness I picked up that was incorrect had one I grabbed. Not sure if it’s correct now though. Gonna do some research and find a pigtail so I can at least create my own hardness for the meantime

@gogmorgothank you for the help! I pulled the interm harness off of a 1995 Cherokee and that one was terribly wrong. So is it safe to assume if I was to find a 94 or older that it should have that same 4 wire hardness?

I have a 1992 Comanche that I took to an electrician and, stupidly, I let him take the interm portion of the speedometer harness. Now I'm trying to fix my speedometer and can’t figure out which portion of the engine harness is the speedometer. important note is my cars engine and trans were swapped by the previous owner with a 1995 jeep wrangler. I’ve attached some pictures of what I think are the plugs since they’re in the right location. Let me know if you guys can help in any way. I’m trying to find out what plug type goes to the speedometer

After taking the tail lights off and looking at the bulbs, it appears that the previous owner installed some aftermarket LEDS…which were loose in the socket. A quick twist and I now have reverse lights. Another lesson about starting at the most simple and going more complex

I pulled all the fuses under the hood and most of the ones in the kick panel just to be safe, and I haven’t found any popped yet. Do you happen to know which ones to check off the top of your head or do you know where I can get a diagram?

1992 Jeep Comanche, previous owner swapped in an ax15. My reverse lights were working, but the wiring job he did wasn’t the gets and a slight pull pulled the wires off the pigtail (first photo). I re soldered the pigtail correctly (color coded on mine, colors are black white green line, blue with white line) The reverse switch had some fraying so I imagined that was the problem, got a new one, still no reverse lights. then I pulled out a multimeter to check, no continuity to the plug:/ so now I’m thinking I either have a short or a blown fuse/relay, but everyone keeps saying “trans” fuse. There’s no fuse in my kick panel labeled trans and now I’m lost. Any ideas? For now I’m gonna check the ground on the drivers side beside the tail lights and check the bulbs themselves

hey guys! I recently installed a luk clutch kit into my jeep as the internal slave cylinder had failed and was leaking clutch fluid causing slippage and making it hard to go into gear. I have a 1992 comanche that had a 1995 TJ 4.0 high output and ax15 swapped into it. when we did the clutch job we noticed the pilot bearing sat in the crankshaft very loose but didn't think anything of it at the time When we test drove the jeep there was a high pitch "whirring" noise and the clutch petal was vibrating which upon further research was said to be the pilot bearing. I truly believe this is the issue as the car shifts and drives fine until the noise and vibration happen. Here are the three pilot bearings I know of in the picture attachments: My question is, is the problem my input shaft diameter for the ax15, or do i need the pilot bearing with the bushing? The picture labeled pb2 is the one that comes with the luk clutch kit that slid in a little too easy and is currently installed in my comanche. Any help would be appreciated! I wanna drive my truck again especially since the new clutch and fully filled trans drive so much better than before.

I got 2 now from stock interiors (totally messed the first one up unfortunately). Same kit, same price, and the quality is amazing. They make some custom fitted floor mats that are also killer

Hi all! I'm having some new symptoms on my Comanche and I’m praying they’re not a RMS leak… recently I’ve had a burning smell when shifting, as well as hard clicks when I shift gears sometimes. I originally thought that it was due to my clutch going bad but the pedal still feels good. when I went to take a look under the truck I foube some oil leaking from inside the dust shield area of the transmission. my engine oil level is good, the clutch fluid level is good, my transmission oil level was actually a little too full from last time I changed jt (removed the full plug and fluid began leaking all over me lol) what do you guys think it is? Here’s my to do list as of RN before I get to the RMS and the oil pan gasket 1. distributor gaskets 2. oil filter adapter I think this is another leak) 3. Valve cover gasket 4. Oil pan gasket 5. RMS (engine and input shaft seal on the trans)

Hi all! I'm looking to put buckets into my 1992 MJ. I unfortunately picked up some 1995s country sport seats that fold forward, however, I’ve since learned that the bottom frame has been changed as of that year. I can try to do a bunch of work with 1x1 steel square stock, but I think my apartment would probably kick me out. so instead, I’m gonna try to sell these mint seats and get me some period correct ones. I’ve sourced the my bucket brackets that have individual sliders so each seat can be adjusted. my question is, I’ve seen the pic showing the different brackets but I need to find the seat frames from a 2 door, and country sport off a 2 door so they fold forward still. does that exist? I’ll attach some pics for reference as to what I’m looking for I love the side bulges that hold you in place. Let me know what you guys think

Hey thanks for the reply! Wish I had gotten on and seen it sooner. I ended up doing this anyway and confirmed it was getting power using the continuity setting on my multimeter. I appreciate the help

****UPDATE **** Hey all, whelp after 2 days of being pissed off at my truck, buying a new switch, and learning how a multimeter works, it was a 40a fuse under the hood causing the headlights not to work:/ I tested the continuity of the headlights, the plugs, the headlight switch, and nothing was adding up. I just started pulling fuses even though I had already checked all of them in the car. I probably sanded around 10 grounds in the engine bay and in the cab under the dash. I'm trying to remember what the fuse panel said it was for to help someone in the future but I can’t right now. Thanks to everyone who helped me out, turns out I’m just a tard and it was an easy fix. I did learn a lot and will be doing the relay harness setup that Jeep cables provides: https://www.jeepcables.com/products/daylight-headlight-harness?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAn-2tBhDVARIsAGmStVmMnVqntW1QI3bVfNnR7hCWztzEak1FZ6tcwAqGwv51ff4XTkZ9LP4aAvjfEALw_wcB I know it’s more expensive than some other options but I’ll buy once cry once. I have the Jeep cables battery terminal upgrade already so I know their stuffs reliable

Theres a lot of grounds in the car I’m not sure where I’d even start. But just thinking out loud if it wasn’t grounded wouldn’t the whole switch not work? I get where you’re coming from but saying clean all the grounds is like saying make sure it’s plugged in. I’m looking for answers as to where specific grounds pertaining to the headlights would be or where a relay is I don’t know about.

Which grounds are you referring to?

So it’s a 1992 and I’ve seen the plug you’re talking about, I don’t believe I have the relay. none of the front lights work (EX: headlights, high beams, running lights) but the blinkers do. I have made sure that the ground to the replacement switch is contacting and not corroded. I will double check the connector to make sure that it’s not burnt and destroyed. But the switch is basically brand new making me think the previous owner had this same issue at some point. The buzzing: that’s what’s confusing me. It’s the same noise when you open the door when the cars on or turn the dome lights on via the headlight switch (I know the switch isint the issue since that part works so it’s getting power). Unless maybe like half the switch is bad? But it seems unlikely since both switches have the same issue

I checked the fuses under the dash on the firewall and the fuses under the hood. Nothing blown. I’ve been looking into that upgrade but I wanna know what’s causing the issue first you know? Is it possible that the old switch is also bad and I should buy a brand new one? It worked fine before the dashboard replacement

Hey all, I came out to my Jeep tonight to go to the store and realized my headlights running lights, and dash lights won’t turn on. However, the brake lights, turn signals, and some lights all work. I recently swapped out my dashboard for one less…. Ruined, and am thinking I missed something. The only things I unplugged were what absolutely needed to be, that being the ac controls, cluster, headlight switch, and so on. When I first turned the car on after the swap I noticed the headlights were flickering and acting funny but they ended up staying on. Now that they’re not working at all I took the old headlight switch off the old dashboard and swapped them out to no avail. the odd thing is when I go to turn the headlights on the open door buzzer goes off almost like it’s letting me know a fuse or relay was tripped. any ideas? I’m so frustrated I’m just done for the night and going to sleep

I do have it, I’m just not seeing the exact colors coming off of the same areas that the diagram is showing me

I'm on a mission to figure out where all these loose plugs go to. Any ideas? ^ | This is right next to the gas pedal and ties into the main harness ^ | Under the hood right next to the ECU ^ | again under the dashboard split from the main harness