imtehbeef

Nope, the TPS on the 91 and 92 Comanche's are nonadjustable.

KgOD78gnV6M If you listen closely you can hear it misfire 2 or 3 times in this video. I kept it floored until after it shifted.

Sometimes the misfire happens a good 1000 rpms away from the shift point. As for the ECU noise, I couldn't get it on video because my phone microphone won't pick up such a high frequency, but its just a faint high pitch whine that you can only hear when you're under the hood. I've heard the whine come from an ECU in one of my previous trucks that ran fine, but I can't remember if it was a Jeep or not. In other news, I decided to check the new TPS voltage just for kicks, and its only putting out 3.6 volts at WOT. My Chilton says it should be putting out over 3.9 volts. Did I get a faulty TPS unit? This would cause the engine to lean out at WOT and cause a misfire, right?

Thats the thing I don't understand. It doesn't knock or misfire at all until it gets close to shifting, and usually only at WOT. I can power brake all day long and it won't misfire once. I'll try to take a video of a 0-60 pass at WOT in a little bit. It's still not throwing a misfire code, either.

I couldn't pull the plate off of the transmission to clean the ring gear, because I don't have a wrench big enough, but I was able to take one of the small bolts off and pry the plate open. What exactly am I looking for to be covered in oil? The ring gear looked pretty dry. I also noticed that the high pitched whine that the ECU makes changes when I unplug the crank position sensor and the cam position sensor. I'll try to post a video when I get back from town.

Yeah, I do have a rear main seal leak. I remember reading somewhere that this could cause problems with the CPS, because the pickups get oily? Should I go clean the pickups and see if it helps?

I don't think its the rev limiter. It keeps accelerating in between misfires. It does seem to be doing it less today, although I haven't had a good stretch of road to test it on. It's hard to test a misfire at the top of first gear in a 25 mph zone. :wall:

I won't have access to a timing light for another week and a half, when school gets out. I think it runs way too good for it to be a timing problem though. The truck accelerates like a madman at WOT until it gets close to redline, and then it starts to misfire. I'm not sure the exact RPM, I have the idiot light gauges :shake:. Occasionally the truck will go all the way to redline without misfiring, but its completely random when it does it. When I test drove it after adjusting the kickdown cable, it misfired 4 or 5 times on the first pass, once on the second pass, and then 4 to 5 times on the third pass.

Cable is adjusted, and its still doing it. Could the torque converter be the cause? The truck was run low on transmission fluid by the previous owner. It stumbles in every gear too. Any ECU from 91-95 should fit, right? My ECU does make a weird high-pitched whine when the key is on. Off topic, do you happen to know where I can get an FSM for a 92? I've been using the 93 FSM for a Cherokee I got from greatlakesxj.com

That sounds like a likely culprit. I've been trying to get this mother@#$%er to throw a code for 3 weeks now, and no matter how bad it "misfires" it won't throw a code. Did your 91 sound like a misfire when it stumbled? And how would I go about adjusting the kickdown cable? I followed some instructions I found online (can't remember where exactly) but it didn't seem to adjust the cable, only pull it really tight.

Well, I checked the IAT sensor today with the truck fully cooled down, and its within factory specs. I ripped the catalytic converter off, thinking it might be a partially clogged cat, but that didn't fix it either. I'm runnin out of stuff to check here people. Anybody got any ideas at all?

Is the depth of the pump going to make a difference? For example, am I only going to be able to use 18 gallons out of my 23.5 gallon tank before it stops sucking fuel? I've been searching on CC all night but it doesn't seem like many people are running Cherokee pumps.

I just got off the phone with the PO of my Comanche, and he gave me the part number for the pump he put in. RE0289S. This comes up on RockAuto as a Cherokee fuel pump. I assume this is why my fuel gauge will only go down to a little over 1/4 tank. Is this gonna cause any problems other than the fuel gauge reading wrong? It seems like every day I take 1 step closer to finishing this truck and then find 10 more steps I didn't know I had. :wall:

Checked the fuel pressure, 39 without the regulator, 31 with it. Bought a brand new coil. Still misfiring. I checked the resistance on the injectors, all are approximately 15 ohms. I'm out of ideas. Everything on the fuel/ignition system is new. Would a bad intake air temperature sensor cause this? The resistance at 60 degrees is only 5k ohms, the book says it should be above 10k.

Its late and I'm tired, but if my brain is still working right, there is a 2-2.5" height difference between the front and rear when measured from the center of the hub to the bottom of the fender flare.

Well, since the ignition coil is all thats left for old parts, I guess I'll go pick one of those up tomorrow. NAPA probably has the right gauge for the fuel rail, so I might as well check the fuel pressure tomorrow too. Thanks for the input.

I finally got my 1992 Comanche on the road, but its got a hell of a misfire under heavy acceleration. List of new parts: Cap/Rotor Plugs Wires Fuel Pump Fuel Filter TPS All of which were changed by the previous owner. The weird thing is the engine computer isn't throwing any codes related to misfires. These are the codes I get: 12 - Battery disconnected within 50 key turns 35 - Cooling fan relay fault (Doesn't make any sense as I don't have an electric cooling fan) 33 - AC Circuit fault (Also doesn't make sense as I don't have AC) 55 - End of codes. Anybody out there have any ideas? Merging onto the highway everyday without being able to floor it is getting kind of annoying. :wall:

I've come to the conclusion that the steering shaft on my 92 MJ is the source of my steering slop. My question is can I change the U-joint at the steering box or do I have to change the whole shaft? I'm hoping that the joint is changeable, because this MJ has all but drained my bank account, and a new steering shaft is at least $100.

I found some pictures of the old Comanche on my old phone today, so I figured I'd post them. Messin around in a sandpit with the stock 215/75r15's. The reason I was in the sandpit in the first place: The patch master at work Patch panels from scrap metal Artist rendition of what I wanted the truck to look like What it actually looked like for a bit. After a $10 spray paint job. Rear ended a 2001 Ford Ranger at about 5mph and got this nice bend. I'm sad to see it go, but in other news the 92 Comanche is almost done. I'll start a new thread for it when I finish working on it and register it.

If I am not mistaken, the reason to get an ABS axle is the axle shafts are a tidbit beefier, and they use the larger u-joints.

Well I picked up an axle out of a 96 with the control arms for $150, already out of the vehicle. It's missing the passenger side wheel bearing, and the guy at the junkyard gave me a non-abs passenger side axle shaft to go with it, but the axle itself is in much better condition. The only problem is the passenger lower control arm bracket is bent a little. Would heating it up and straightening it out be a bad idea? The bracket itself looks fairly sturdy, and not rusty. And perfect alignment has never really been my thing anyway. :smart:

So I picked up a front end out of a 96 with ABS with all the control arms for $150, already out of the vehicle. It was missing the passenger side axle shaft, so the guy gave me a non-ABS axle shaft. This poses 2 problems for me. 1. What the hell do I put on these axle shafts for u-joints? Its my understanding that the only difference in u-joint size is between ABS and non-ABS. Is that true? 2. Is running 2 different types of axle shafts going to cause issues? I could put the drivers side axle shaft from my old non-ABS axle in, but I like the beefier shaft that it came with.

I'm lookin for a D30 thats within driving distance from Maine. 3.55 ratio preferred.

Yeah, I thought $250 seemed a little pricey. I'll have to go visit the u-pull when I get home this weekend. I get the owner a lot of business so he usually cuts me a decent deal. jimoshel - I'm all the way across the US in Maine, so a $100 D30 would probably end up costing a fortune including shipping. jeepcoma - If I do end up rebuilding the axle, how much would you want for the axle shafts?

So I picked up my 92 metric ton Comanche this weekend, and found out that I don't need to change the transmission. The lines were rotted completely, so it just needed some fluid and it moves fine. Unfortunately the front axle is a little iffy. The perch for the coil spring has partially rusted away, and the passenger axle shaft broke and wreaked havoc on the bolts for my wheel bearing. My question is whether you genius's think I should try and repair the current axle or go sawzall an axle out of a Cherokee at my local u-pick. I priced an axle out at a salvage yard already pulled out with the control arms for $250, but that seems a little pricey to me.