SoCalManche

Correct. Starts up easily, and dies once fuel is burned off from TBI.

Yes, if fuel is put in the throttle body.

Is there anyway someone can provide me assistance on what to look for as far as problems are concerned? If that's the correct ohms reading,then how to I measure to see what's incorrect?

Could the dipstick stud grounds be causing these issues? That is an overly important grounding spot, correct?

Sorry, I didn't see the rest of your question. As far as how I've measured it, the ignition is OFF, I disconnect the two three-pin connectors, one coming from the truck cab, and the other being the fuel pump itself. Once the fuel pump is disconnected, I take the other connector and back-probe the middle pin, and ground out to the chassis. That's how I get 40 ohms.

On my multimeter, its showing 40 ohms when it's set on "200." That's the lowest setting I have. As for "turn over" vs "fire," wouldn't the starter need to engage in order for the cylinders to fire? Regardless, my issue is the fuel pump relay socket I'm assuming. No?

No, but I've usually been working on it alone so I've had to crank. But the fuel pump does not prime when ON and like I just mentioned, the original fuel relay constantly cycles via clicking and never stops until I turn the ignition off. It goes all the way to the fuel pump with the clicking. Engine will turn over easy if fuel is poured into TBI. Also, doesn't Cruiser say to use Oxgard?

Already have. That ground is a shiny as metal can get, with some connector grease.

Okay, so I have a fun update that may be the problem: I tested out the relay for the fuel pump and it's acting strange. The relay that was there when I got the truck constantly clicks when turning key into ON position. If I plug in a new relay, nothing happens. And I tried it with three different new relays. So maybe the socket is corroded? I'm not to keen on the electrical side of things, but this experience is definitely making me learn.

I do not have that connector it seems. I felt up between the frame and bed where the wires go, but nothing. The other picture shows the only connectors I have. I have traced the wires into the cab and up to the connector point under the dash, next to the hood latch release. I have had a continuous resistance of 39-40 ohms.

When you say connector behind the wheel, what are you referring to exactly?

Good question. I will have to get back to you on that when I get to the truck next, which will most likely be tomorrow. On the same note, the truck has no issue starting up when I throw some fuel in the throttle body. It cranks live and well, and then shuts down once I burn whatever gas was thrown in from up top. I did a back-probing on the three-pin connector (in the B-slot with the red lead) that connects to the fuel pump three-pin connector. Regardless of Ohms setting (I was doing 200 but switched through all of them as I'm a novice with a DVOM), I had high resistance when grounding to chassis. I did this with the ignition switched off. So my question is, is that more of a relay issue? Or specific wires?

I wouldn't say the battery is bad considering it's new and let me rephrase -- when ignition is ON, it reads 12.4 volts.

Thanks for the info. Apologize on the mis-terming. So I have an update: Got back to the truck and sprinkled some fuel in the injector. Go to try to start and now it's not even attempting to start as if it has no power. Battery has 12 volts, starter relay has 12 volts, the key buzzes when in the ignition and door is open, but as soon as I try to fire it up, it goes dead. Thoughts?

Oh yes, and an important note I forgot; I'm almost certain it died because I ran out of fuel. The needle wasn't on E, but close. I understand that that could cause some issues.

Hey there folks, I'm going to make this as short and sweet as possible. Ironically, I was driving to the machine shop today to drop off the block from my TJ. I hit a red light, and as it turned green, I started to move, the engine cut, and since then has not turned over. Cranks, but no turn-over because the fuel pump is shorting somewhere. 1986 Jeep Comanche 2.5L TBI - I have spark and air; fuel not pushing. - Turns over when adding a small amount of fuel in the throttle body, but dies after about 1-3 seconds. - Fuel pump has been directly checked via battery to see if it isn't burnt; starts right up. - Fuel pump does not sound off / prime when ignition is turned on. - Get 12 volts in two out of the three relays that are on the passenger side fender near the battery; can someone please tell me which relays are which? The most forward relay isn't getting voltage. - Get 12 volts on starter relay also. - When we checked the pump with the ignition on and pulling each of those relays out, the voltage wasn't changing, and staying at 8 volts. - I do not have a fuel ballast, or at least I have searched high and low and one does not seem to exist. That's all I got. And no, I have not refreshed the ground behind the taillight housing. I will be doing that in the morning once I get some daylight. Any and all questions or comments are appreciated and welcomed.

Oh, and one more question! Does anyone know what size terminal eyelet will fit around the dip stick stud/bolt? I have to cut and replace. Thanks!

I've got a lot to look at today, so thanks for the info! Cruiser, I've checked out the tips before. My C101 connector is in a more difficult spot to get to. It sits low on the firewall almost in the corner of the driver side fender,hidjg under a bunch of stuff. Any recommendations?

Yes, I'm aware. I misunderstood your terminology. I read water jacket and auto-deferred to water pump/ thermo-housing. I forgot you said intake manifold water jacket. Yeah, I'll have to look tomorrow, but if I remember, I only recall the IAT being connected to the intake.

I don't have an place to put a sensor there. Even if I did, I don't have an empty green plug anywhere? Again, I'll have to double check on the morning.

That's a neat little trick that I'll definitely try tomorrow. As for the actual CTS, I don't recall seeing it under there, but I can check tomorrow with some daylight. You say everything is basically the same, but I find that to be false, at least in this MJ. Haha!

My bad, yes I'm from the States. 100*F, which I know is extremely low. I've thought about replacing the thermostat.

Also replaced the IAT as well. Okay, so are there two different CTS then? Also, it warms up to 100. My Tach is also jacked, as when it shows normal idle is 3,000 - 4,000 rpm, with the needle shooting all the way inverted when I'm in high rev.

Ha! Do you have about an hour or two to discuss all the issues? Oh...You meant the temp sensor.. Since I received the MJ from the last owner, the temp gauge stays at 100 or so. I'm also running really rich, like REALLY rich, with the MAP and O2 sensors new. Feel free to shed any light.