SoCalManche

Also, here is the fuel pressure test kit I rented. I wouldn't recommend getting it since it's $150 for one piece to fit, but here it is, haha.

Well I suppose that is good and bad. Glad it's a good readout, but continues confusion to the underlying problem.

With jumper wire installed: D1_2 + Batt Pos = ~0.3V. That was the initial readout, but it continued to descend as I continued to crank. D1_6 + Batt Pos = 0.231V. This voltage was maintained regardless of crank or not.

D1_2 + Batt Pos = ~0.4V during crank. D1_6 + Batt Pos = ~9V during crank. Edit: With Fuel Pump Relay installed.

Unicorn. This is why I try to stay away from electrical. Ha Yes, I have power to both. I also do not understand why this is an issue still.

D1_2 and FPR Pin 86 are not battery voltage. They are ~12.05V.

I'm assuming that question was for Ohm, lol.

Yes, I throw the jumper on pins 30 and 87 to turn on the fuel pump.

Didn't really understand this, ha. Well, I understand what you're saying, I just don't know how or what I'm testing for.

Just got back and the fuel pressure at TBI is 15PSI when I throw the jumper wire in there.

Sorry, I mean how do I check? Neg battery post and Fuel pump relay circuit pin 87? Remember, I'm a novice when it comes to knowing how to test for stuff.

Just called, and they are still doing loan-a-tool. Must be O'Reillys that stopped doing it. Anyways, this kit looks like it has a ton of fittings, so it should be good to go hopefully. And yeah, I saw Jeep Driver's setup on here with a permanent Fuel pressure gauge at the TBI, and I dig it. His whole setup makes my MJ look so basic, ha. I'm headed to go pick that up, and hopefully pick up a noid light too, to check the pulse coming from the fuel injector harness. So which voltage or resistance do I check to figure out which wires are fried?

Trust me, I know. I've been calling it "The Unicorn" for some time now. Haha I haven't seen any fuel leaks. When I pop the jumper wire in the fuel pump relay circuit, it cycles the fuel back to the tank no problem, with no leaks in the lines. I'll have to see if Autozone is still doing loan-a-tool right now for a fuel pressure gauge.

From what I gathered, I thought there wasn't a starter relay. I thought the only thing close was the starter solenoid with all the fusible links.

Whoops, my bad. That silver component does NOT attach to a fusible link. The wiring goes into that silver box and splits off a third direction as you can see, somewhere else. When I looked initially, it looked like the fusible link was connected.

Here are a few pictures. The first two relays disappear into the harness, and the third relay is connected to that silver connector which is attached to a fusible link.

There are three. The B+ latch relay (closest to firewall), fuel pump, and I forget the third.

Crap...haha. Want to come take a work vacation in San Diego and help? It's only a 5 1/2 hour drive! Haha

So basically back to the idea of "start opening up the split looms to try to find toast wiring.

Alright, well I did the ignition testing. With probes in both D1_3 and D1_4, it sits at ~ -5V. When I crank, it sits at ~5.6V.

Also, for the ignition test, is it VDC or VAC? And do I record the reading during crank or after crank stops?

So definitely not low bat voltage; pushing 12.5 and it's brand new. I have plenty of fuel, it just won't push through. Is there something, besides the grounds at the dipstick tube, that connects the fuel injector with the fuel pump? I still need to go get a test light, which I will do, but I just feel like the injector is also not properly working. But I believe it also needs to build proper pressure before it sprays? Or how does that work exactly?

I don't think any tree is wrong to bark up at this point because this gremlin continues to allude just about anyone that has an idea to what it could be.

I unbolted the CPS from the flywheel the other day and cleaned it off, including its mounting points, because I know the CPS is a rather vital component for START.

Yes.