brian

That theory on long arm = greater radius sweep in shallow tank = more accurate read out at dashboard was once presented by Albert Einstein in a lecture years ago... but when rebuffed by his peers, he moved on to his now famous theory on relativity. The trouble with his theory on relativity is that even if a man could travel at or faster than the speed of light..his hat would keep blowing off! :smart: seriously..that was some pretty smart thinking on the float arm .i think you are right :thumbsup:

Both of mine are the 51/2 " If there is on 3" shorter and That's what should be in my '89 swb then I can see why I'm having problems!! I'll order that thing from ebay right away.

you young whippersnappers! with your logic and energy. Makes me tired just listening to ya.How the heck do you know so much about comanches? Did you disect one in high school biology or somethin'

Vapor ports?? flashlight...hmmm. I would like to see in there .Is that really possible? There you go confusing me with common sense again

Now that's a possibility! I have the one I took out when I bought the truck and it looks identical to the one I'm fiddling with now. But...maybe they both are the wrong arm length. Anyone have a camera that will fit down the fuel fill hole so I can see whats going on in there? :hmm:

thanks wildman good ideas. I wouldn't know a baffel from a reservoir. But if I recall when my arm was inside the tank, the only metalflanges or whatever were on the bottom. Sounds like the reservoir. I 'm pretty sure I got the unit from a comanche.it was quite a while back so I'm not positive but It is exactly like the one I took out. I've only tweaked the float arm so as not to get too far off from what it should be. I realize too much bending would cause a faulty readout. I'm tired of taking it out and putting it back in. :headpop:

wow.the dash light thing sounds like mine. The green turn light comes on when I turn on my lights. I've been under there but what a mess I found with wiring. I actually had tot have an auto electrician rewire much of my rig because pretty much all of my elecs were goofy when I bought my rig. The good news is..you sure got a clean straight body!

Surely you jest doggy why would I go get a new tank when I can knock myself out dinking around with the one I have.? Seriously You may be right. I didn't try bending the baffel.It was all I could do to get my arm down in there to feel around. Damn near didn't get it back out! Now that I think about it... The sending unit/pump I'm dealing with now is one I picked up at the wrecking yard to replace the original which didn't work when I bought the rig. I even compared the float arm on both to see if one was bent differently than the other.nope. The bent tank idea is good but.. no dent. The info above suggesting the baffels are to keep the float from bouncing around sounds about right.

Thanks jeepdoggie I'm pretty sure that what you described is the problem. But how in the heck do I fix it? Like I said I've tried bending the arm just a bit in different directions hoping it would clear the obstruction but no luck. :wall:

Thanks Pete for the bump...whatever that means

On my 89 mj 4x4 I have tried several times to get my fuel sending unit to operate but it seems every time I put the darn unit back into the gas tank the float gets stuck. I've tried bending the arm a little(the arm on the float..not mine) but the guage says the float is always stuck in the empty position. Once in a while when the tank gets filled up it will jump up to read full but then it ends up stuck on empty later. The sending unit works fine when I test it outside of the tank. I stuck my arm waaayyy down inside the tank to get an idea of what might be causing the problem and discovered what feels like many ridges and flanges sticking up from the bottom of the tank. I can't imagine what they could be good for. I can see how they might interfere with the float. Some of you must have figured this out in the past.???? :dunno: thanks in advance PS Correy--did my private message ever get to you?

Hey man thanksfor all the good info and support. I just crawled out from under my little yellow mule. I got the bad one off and the good one on but it took me and my son to do it. 4 hands seemed to be the ticket... plus ( i hate to admit this) :oops: I cut a hole in the firewall to get at one of those devils. Anyhow it runs like a top ! :thumbsup: smoooooth here'to ya :cheers:

yep, mines a 4x4 I agree that I need to check both before I swap but assumng I need to change it out, I just tried to reach those 2 bolts (holding the the sensor in place) from the top with an extension and also from the hole in the tunnel since my shifter is still out.I tried a flexsocket but it looks impossible! The blasted bolt heads are sooo close to the sheet metal tunnel there doesnt seem to be room for a socket or a hand from underneath. Incredible!! :wall:

thanks again Yeah.... it probably got damaged in installation or removal. I'm hoping the old one that was original to this rig will work if I swap them. I'm not looking forward to trying to do a swap since the thing is in such a hard location. :doh: don't make me pull the tranny again!!!

thanks Rob. as in crankshaft position?why would that cause the engine to barely run?? ok I'm editing my post here. I looked up crank sensor and found yes it is sensing ht relation of the crankshaft to the camshaft. that explains why the misfire but how in the H does this little baby which is mounted to an open space at the top of the bell housing, detect crank position? I guess it's magnetic or magic. since it is nearly impossible to get at the sensor end of the thing now that the tranny is in.. I'm wondering if the old one from the bell housing I just took out will solve the problem and can I swap the two w/out pulling the tranny again? momma told me there'd be days like this :grrrr:

I'm stumped.... again :hmm: I just put a used tranny in my 89 mj last night. all went pretty well . But this morn. when I went to move the beast out of the garage. It started but runs as if the wires had been switched on the rotar cap. Well, almost that bad. It barely runs.. missing and coughing and small backfires! Won't rev at all ...just idles. Knowing it must be something that changed either in the spark or fuel, I unplugged that 2 wire connector that runs from some sensor mounted just inside the top of the bell housing and couples up to wires under the hood. This kept the truck from starting at all. So I plugged it in again and the engine starts but runs as I described before. What the bleep is that thing? I have the old one from my busted tranny but before I exchange it for the one causing trouble ...fill me in will ya!? :grrrr: thanks

Fantastic! I hadn't thought of the 2 prong elec. sender as the backup light DUH :doh: easy to rewire. great info on the hoses. so they connect to nothing..just there to breath. Yes the ba10 has one for a totall of 2 in my old set up. now there will be just one from the tranfer case. speaking of which...the ax15 I bought came with the correct transfer case and bell housing on it so as far as I can tell I'm good to go. Now I see the 4 vacuum port switch on the trans case next to the speedo connect. It's all becoming clear to me. :thumbsup: don't know what year the ax15 came from . The guys at the wrecking yard don't seem any brighter than me.They had no idea. but it is an ax15 with all the correct attachments. also I should note that I was wronfg when I said earlier that my old ba10 was stamped 11/ 89 which conflicts with your info that it was discontinued in mid 89 . Now that I can see it clearly it says july 88. Okay ..so I'm old and half blind... :oops: can't' hear much either.

Thanks KYMJ for the link. Always nice to know someone has accomplished what seemed undoable to me. Great write up

well crap! I tried to insert a couple photos of the 2 trannys side by side so maybe you could identify better te lines both vacuum and electical. I guess I'm not smart enough to upload the pics using the'insert image' button above. OH well........the old tran has two hoses coming out of it one from the tranfer case and another from near the shift.They tie togeter andend at a metal conector .I never did know what they were they are just hanging there.?? The ax15 I'm putting in only has the one tube/hose coming from the transfer case.I have no idea where it is suposed to go to?? Is this the vacuum that runs the cad you refer to? then there is the 2 prong elec connectr on the old ba10 on the driver side of the tranny.Again I don't know what it does but the wiring for it is still hanging in the truck. I'm guessing the 2 prong elec connector on the opposite side of the new ax15 is the same thing just in a different location. Since they have different types of plugs I'm reluctant to assume they are the same thing?? Any help? It would be easier if I could insert my pics....What is the procedure for that? If you can answer all of the above questions..my hat is off to you! :bowdown: .

noticed a change in the slopiness of my steering wheel. I had a lot of wiggle in it before which I tried to fix but was scared off by the inaccessablility of the knukle joints when I first tried . suddenly it has even more side to side and up and down slop. Has anyone ever had one break loose? 89 comanche 4.0 4x4

Thanks for the links to other posts on this subject. Looks like the busted one I pulled last night is the ba10.the id tag on the side says it is from 11/89.so they must have switched to the ax15 pretty late in 89. found an ax15 with bell housing and tranfercase. from what I read it is going to be an easy swap. thought I think I saw something about a vacuum hose and the front dif I didn't understand. Hoping to get it in tonight.

thanks correyfor the heads up on the ba10/5. You're right. I should look up old posts first but hey..I'm lazy

Thanks both of you. I am swapping my busted 5spd and need to know which 5spd will replace it. My rig is an 89 4.o 4x4. looks like the 10/5 is the only one that will replace mine. Good to know the xj and mj are interchangable. oops! now after re-reading the above post I see that in mid 89 the ax15 went behind a 4.ol. this brings up a new question are the ba10/5 and the ax15 interchangable? when looking for these used tranys, the seller sometimes doesn't know which tranny they are selling so I'm trying to get as much info before hand. thanks again

do all cherokee and comanche 5 spd man. trannys interchange? looks like there is an ax5..aT5 and a 10/5. thanks

Hornbrod That's a 'wink' next to my statement about my life/jeep and pins and needles.. Why the @$$-kick? :huh???: I have considered all the advice here and am very glad for all of it. Just saying I'm in need of getting my truck back on the road asap and looking for the easiest way to do that. Not a project. Yes , I verified that the fromt end is a 3.07 The closest used rearend (so far)is 2 hr's away and $250 lots of cherokees around here though.Maybe this is a good time to teach myself to weld.