rhollen

Was hoping not to gut both units just swap out the End cone for the transfer case.

I need some education on the Pugoet Transmision. Can we take a 2WD Pugoet trany and add a Pugoet transfer case to it reasonably easy or do I need matching trany and transfer? I attempted to do this cause my 4X4 trany was popping out of First gear and I have a good 2wd trany. When I attempted to do this the output shaft lengths are different in lengths. any help is appreciated.

It trips when I go to bleed either of the front calipers after bleeding the back. I have to remove and disassembled the valve to reset it then reinstall.

Eagle, So I have tried a lot of different ways to to get the fronts to bleed but here are a few. So I originally didn't replace the front Calipers or Master cause when we got the MJ it had brakes just not great and the brake lines were a mess. So we replaced the two lines going to the rear LSV and along the rear axel to the wheel cylinders. We did a 5 "lift and replaced the front Flex lines to the Calipers we used Rough Country braided lines. With the LSV lined in my only question there was did I get the lines going into the proper ports? My diagram is above in the thread. So the first Bleed attempt was a standard try Pump the brea pedal normally 4 to 5 times hold to the floor crack the Rear Right Bleeder 1/4 turn I used a Clear line into a Bottle to check for air. Close the leader and repeat til we had no air visible in the line while checking the master calendar fluid level so it did not go low enough to add additional air. Went to the rear left and performed the same steps. We started with absolutely no pedal and after the rear line bleeding we had a small pressure on the pedal but if you put a solid push on it you could push it to the floor. We then moved to the right front and started the bleeding process same as above pump 4 to 5 times hold down on pedal release check for air then tighten and repeat. so after a few releases of air I noticed the amount of fluid had decreased and no air bubbles were moving so we moved to the left front and performed the same. We got a ton of air out but it wouldn't stop and we had lost all pedal that we had gained from the rear bleeding. we were also having at times when bumping up then holding the pedal hold off the floor a bit then for no reason the pedal release and go to the floor before we touched a bleeder. We tried this method a couple times then followed the process that gogmorgo mentions above by leaving the RF bleeder open with no luck. at this point I bought and install New not rebuilt Master and calipers. I bench Bleed the Master and installed the calipers bleeder at top. Started at the front just to see if we could get it all primed and some type of pedal, we had no luck. I still had no pressure at the RF caliper. I removed the Flex line and connected a clear runner hose to the hard brake line in the wheel well. Connected a Large syringe to it and tried to pull fluid through the system. This is when I realised the line was totally blocked off. We removed the line from the rear of the metering valve and checked line, line was clear. We removed the metering valve rear port on metering valves was blocked hundred percent rear bottom port had major restriction the front two ports were wide open. Disassembled metering valve extremely clean inside seals all looking good shape repositioned valve in valve body check for airflow and reinstalled. Started the bleeding process this time with the front right caliber open and right rear leading process again got partial pedal went to bleed to front and the metering valve shut off again. So thinking the LSV is shutting off the front lines I remove the LSV from the system and routed lines around it and tried bleeding process again with same outcome soon as we tried to bleed the front it locked up. I gave up after a multitude of tries bleeding rear first, front first, etc. Open to any suggestions.

Yes bleeders on front calipers are on top.

I can't find a good Full line diagram from front to rear is this the proper setup?

Yes bench bled MC. Took PV apart to reposition slide and everything looked fine there is no spring which I thought was weird but research showed it that model there is no spring.

So I know, There is a lot of topics and conversations around the brakes and I think I now have read them all but now I think I'm more confused then before I started researching. We are rebuilding a 88 4.0L 4wd. New brake lines hard and flex, new calipers and new master cylinder. My problem is no pedal & I can't get the front calipers to bleed. The back no problem they bleed fine with or with out the LSV which now after a multitude of tries I have temporarily routed around trying to get the fronts to bleed. What seems to be happening is when we go to bleed the fronts by Pedal or by Vacuum the proportioning valve moves to the rear and shuts off the Right front and limits the left front. Has anyone seen this before? Based on the blogs that seems to be what its designed for? Is there a simple fix so I can bleed the front? Should I keep the MJ PV or should I just get a YJ/XJ PV and be done with it and if so does anyone have a Part number of one YJ/XJ that will hook up easily in that small hand space.LOL I would like to Keep the LSV but honestly this truck is not going to be carrying loads it will be lucky to have a full tank of gas. it will be for weekend warrior stuff. So eliminating the LSV I don't think it would be an issue if there is a PV thats close to the standard proportions of the settings on the proportioning valve with LSV. Owe and yes we tried the MJ brake bleeding procedure with no luck. tried starting at rear, tried doing front first, tried the one were we leave the right front open and bleed the back. no luck Thanks in advance....

Got it! Too many weird readings went back to basics and ran a second ground to fuel tank. Darn thing started right up. Thanks everyone for your help

Pin 30 nope 0V where does pin 30 come from?

Sorry I was reading the image diagram backwards for the relays. Pin 86 is 14 v at switch on and pin 30 is 0v switch off goes to 12v at switch on then drops to 4v and stays thier. ?

Okay Switched Relay no luck. checked Voltage at Pin 30 13V at key on Pin 86 13V all the time. So the Key switch at the column seam to be sending voltage to the relay to activate relay but still nothing.

Its a 88 MJ with tilt column, 4.0 L with Peugot trans and transfer case. We took apart the column down to the three bolts for the tilt that were extremely loose, put Loctite on them and tightened them up reassembled Steering Column. We have done a ton of work since then and we can't honestly remember if the fuel pump worked after we did the Column or not we believe it did but not sure. I'll do the relay swap if that doesn't fix it I'kll go to the Switch aliment.

Bassast resistor checks fine. no power getting to it?

So I need some help. I'm helping my Grandson build his first MJ. We found a almost perfect 2WD minor rust ran great some standard issues like Steering column falling apart. We found a MJ 4x4 donor and did a 2wd to 4x4 swap and fixed the steering column. Now we have no power to the Fuel Pump. I know the Pump is good cause I can hot wire it. Ran a continuity check all the way back to the resistor block and the wiring is fine. also checked the relay and it seems fine. When we turn the key everything works but the fuel pump, If I hot wire the pump the truck runs. I can't figure out what we would have done that is not telling the relay to send power to the pump. I know and checked the connector and switch block on top of the steering column I haven't removed it yet cause everything works but the pump when we turn on the key. any ideas? Thanks in advance.