Piilgrim82

Thanks guys! Makes sense that it’s the transfer case. Hopefully I haven’t damaged anything too bad…would the most obvious sign just be metal deposits in the tcase fluid when I change it? Yes, just trying to save on wear but also the nagging voice in my head saying driving around all winter in 4 hi is a no no when the manual seems insist it’s only for temporary use. Then again, they had more than just guys like me in Northern Canada who drive on snow/ice/compact snow all winter in mind when they wrote it haha. (The city I’m in thankfully doesn’t salt the roads, they just keep them cleared as best they can and spread a very fine gravel on top. Works fairly well and cuts down on the rust, but without enough gravel compact snow is like driving on ice haha.) I’ll definitely look into the CAD delete for next winter!

With a cad delete do you know if you can go into 4 hi while stationary?

Ok, I’ll have to look into that. Whatever it is that’s not meshing, you hear a grind the a significant thud and it sort of surges forward as it engages. It sounds like it’s coming from right beneath the driver so it never crossed my mind that maybe it was the CAD.

No, haven’t done that. Could that be causing the issues?

Hello all, I have a 90 pioneer 4.0 manual 4x4. I live way up North where half the year I’m driving in snow and ice, so I spend a good portion of my time in 4 hi. Occasionally while trying to reduce wear I’ve stayed in 2wd a little too long to the point of getting stuck. Whenever this happens I have to shift into 4 wheel hi and let the wheels spin until it engages…but let me tell you, the massive thud and grinding noise that happens as the transfer case engages makes me want to cry. I’ve read the owner’s manual and other threads and of course all I can find is that you’re supposed to shift into 4 hi while “moving at any speed”….my question is, is there a way to get into 4wd when you’re already stuck without abusing your transfer case like this? Or maybe my transfer case has something wrong and I’m the only one with this problem? Any help would be appreciated, as multiple occasions of this happening has led me to just drive in 4hi most of the winter rather than risk getting stuck and further damaging things!

Well, fingers crossed! I already paid the deposit on them...I’ll post an update once I have them on! :)

PS I went to measure what the bump stop gap is that I currently have, and it's about 2.5 in on the front and back...if my math is right that should stop the 30x9.5's from hitting the fender flares!

Coolio

INCREDIBLY helpful! I'll look into cheaper alternatives, it did seem pricey for what you get. I saw that Rough Country has a 3" kit for cheaper price https://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-suspension-lift-kit-625-20.html ...is pretty much guarunteed that at 3" I'd need those extra bits, or is it case by case? For the immediate future my concern is just the back wheels rubbing the fenders as I'll be towing a trailer and so running at max GVWR and don't wanna be dragging those tires in the wheel wells....but wanting a lift for the more fun activities too!

I'm thinking of this one https://www.4wheelparts.ca/p/skyjacker-2-inch-suspension-lift-kit-with-black-max-shocks-xj20-b/_/R-BHNG-XJ20-B....if it could solve any clearance problems plus give me a lift, that would be nice. From what I gather, higher than 2" becomes a lot more involved.

Wow, thanks for the quick reply! Super helpful as I am trying to order what I need as soon as possible. So you're thinking spring spacer (the don't/hockey puck) in front, and then bump stop in back? Looking at your profile pic I really like your setup! How much lift are you running, and what is your opinion on a 2" lift (vs 3-6in)?

Hey @Pete M a bit of news and a couple more questions...I decided to order these bad boys https://www.4wheelparts.ca/p/method-race-wheels-301-the-standard-15x7-with-5-on-4-5-bolt-pattern-matte-black-mr30157012506n/_/R-GNQP-MR30157012506N?_requestid=73182# I'll hang on to my wagon wheel aluminum wheels (maybe for studded tires) but just wanted something to give me the width I want in the front then I can still ad a spacer in the back to even them out if I decide I'd rather the look. ...These have 3.75in backspacing, so my concern now is that I've seen in other threads people saying going with less backspacing means that at full compression the tire can smash the fender flare...do you think this will be the case if I go with a 30x9.5 tire? I'm thinking of getting the BF Goodrich K02 All Terrains. If you think there could be an issue there, do you think a 2" lift would do the trick? From what I'm seeing they look cheap and easy to do.

Hahaha it sure sounds like it! I’ll give @87MJTIM’s advice a try before I pull you all into this any further :) Oh and yes, @jdog fuse is good!

Thanks for all the help! Are there any spacer you’d recommend? Old links I’ve found on other pages have an expired URL :/

I guess I’m also assuming it’s “stock”...here are some photos, looks like from the top of my tires to the bottom of the fender flare I’m currently 5in in the rear and 4.5 in the front (I’m assuming due to the weight of the winch on the front bumper). As for tires I’d run as large as I can, but I think I’ve seen on other posts that 235/75r15 is the widest people recommend on a 15x7 wheel?

Sorry about the photo trouble fellas, I'll try uploading directly from my cell on safari next time! (I've been uploading them using my computer.) I tried connecting it and still didn't have any luck, any advice where to check next? Thanks for the help!

Here's the photo...hopefully you can view it, taken with my iphone. IMG_4024.HEIC

Hi guys, Since I bought my MJ a couple years ago the cruise control hasn't worked. I have a long road trip coming up where it would really save my knees, so I'm hoping to get it working. Took a peak at it yesterday and there appears to be vacuum pressure as when I pulled the small vacuum line that runs out of the canister it feeds into (not the one in the bumper) I heard the pressure release. So I decided to take a look at the wiring under the dash and right away noticed a stray broken pink wire, which appears to connect to the brake switch..here's a photo if anyone can confirm that's where it goes. Aside from that, can anyone give some advice on how to troubleshoot this? I try and fix most things by youtube videos but couldn't find much in this.

Hi everyone, just curious if any of you have tried the American Racing AR767 Wheels on your MJ, and what fitment and reviews you might be able to offer. I'm looking for a new set of rims that will allow the stance to be wide enough to come just outside the fender flares on a stock lift. I have the stock aluminum spoked wheels, which with 235/75r15's come almost to the edge in the front, and to my understanding are 15x7 with 5.25" backspacing. Since the american racing ones say they are 15x7 with 4" backspacing I assume these ought to do the trick (along with some spacers in the rear). Please correct me if I'm wrong! https://www.americanracing.com/product/wheels/ar767/?attribute_pa_finish=gloss-black-steel-with-red-and-blue-stripe

Hey guys! Apologies for not getting back to you sooner with the outcome, but guess what!...Same symptoms meant same problem! I decided to take a look for myself and as soon as I pulled the sending unit out the problem was evident, that same 2in piece of fuel line. Someone didn't properly fasten the hose clamp on one end so it was barely hanging in place on one end. Was like the engine was trying to suck from a straw with a crack in it! haha I had already bought a new fuel pump and lock ring but I'm thinking I might hold onto it in case if the old one is on its way out. If I can hear the fuel pump whining with the engine idling is that a sign it's in poor shape?

Good to know! Was talking to a friend and he said that the fact that it increased a few psi by cleaning the fuel pump ground means my problem is most likely the fuel pump...which would make sense given that I didn’t change anything on the regulator. So when people talk about lifting the truck bed to change the fuel pump or cutting a hole in it, that’s only necessary on trucks where the fuel pump is mounted from the top?

Well I checked if the pressure regulator leaked with the vacuum line off and no sign of fuel leaking. Cleaned up the fuel pump ground and got a few more psi at idle 😂 Sadly don’t have the time on my hands to drop the fuel tank and investigate, so I’m haven’t by a mechanic give it a look. I’ll let you know what he finds :)

Nope didn’t think of that. Would fuel come out of the vacuum line? I’ll give it a try

Hey guys! I’m having very similar issues with my 90 Pioneer 4.0 5spd as the original post, but not quite sure how to check some of the things mentioned here before I try removing the sending unit. Bought a pressure gauge and I’m reading just below 20psi with the truck idling, and it immediately drops to zero with the truck off. If I turn the key to kick on the fuel pump right after I shut the engine off, I see pressure bounce to 1-2psi for a second then straight away back to zero. Replaced the fuel filter which also blew the o-ring on my pressure relief valve, but I replaced the o-ring. I’ll check my ground wire firt thing after work, but do I need to pick up an ammeter to know for sure if the fuel pump is the culprit vs the relief valve? If so, can someone tell me how/where to use the ammeter to check it? Thanks in advance!!

Thanks guys! I’ll look into it. Oh and sorry about the image format, thanks for going to the extra work to convert the file fiatslug87!