Disturbed

If this works I will post up what is needed. Going to try running a YJ proportioning valve with the E350 master cylinder. I can tell you the master cylinder was $35 brand new at NAPA. Not sure about the YJ proportioning valve, I have a stash of YJ parts.

Started the day Friday by putting the MJ up on my lift (yes I have a lift in my home shop, I know, I suck ). I looked a bunch of stuff over and made myself a list for Napa. Picked up some brake line and fittings, an 86 E350 master cylinder, and ordered ebrake cables. Back to the shop, pulled the load sensing valve off. It works very freely so it very well may be operational but I still didnt want to deal with it. Found 2 places where the rear brake lines had been fixed with compression fitting, I don't think this is acceptable for brakes, so I pulled the lines all the way up to the master cylinder. When I pulled the lines out from beside the fuel tank I started to smell gas and found that the tank was now leaking. Now I probably created the hole by yanking the lines out BUT if that is the case it would have punched through fairly soon so I will be order a new tank today. Pulled the skid plate, all but the two bolts in the bottom of the frame came right out. Those two bolts just spun. Now what, :dunno: can't grind, air chisel, cutting wheel, or torch them off. Leaking fuel tank and sparks are no good. Ended up drilling both of those bolts out. Had to hold them in place with vice grips while drilling otherwise they just spun. Once the skid plate was off I could see it was leaking about half way up the tank. Siphoned the gas out of the tank, got about 13 gallons out before I ran out of fuel storage and had to quit. Good news it I had just filled the tank before I drove it home, so it had 18.5 gallons. There is still some fuel in the tank, but not much, means I was probably down about 5 gallons from the fill up. Its about 100 miles from where I bought it home, 20 MPG, I am happy with that. Installed a new longer brake hose in the rear that I got using part numbers I found on here. The one I removed had the hard brake line cross threaded into it. Luckily the hard line fitting was OK and I didnt need to redo that. Disassembled the YJ proportioning valve I plan on using and cleaned it up real good. Flushed all the ports and passages in the parts washer. By then I was out of time for the day, it was time for the twins to eat, they just started cereal (which looks like mush to me) and it is quite the undertaking to feed both of them at the same time. I keep telling my little boy that he gets this MJ when he can drive (hes 4 months old) Ha Ha. My wife wanted to know what I was going to do for his twin sister, told her little girl gets Moms YJ and I will build Mom a new one :banana: Mom was OK with that.

OK if new brake cable are that cheap I will replace them, that a no brainer. Can you get the front cable also or is it not available? Did you get factory(aftermarket) replacement lines or just bulk vacum lines and replace them? Does the E350 master cylinder swap work with an MJ? Did that on my YJ and it worked great, don't see what it won't fit a MJ. It cheap to, that will be my next step if the new porportioning valve does clear up my issues.

I havent figured out how to post pictures yet, I have them, hosted but I always get an error that the size of the pic can't be determined. Anyway you can see pics here viewtopic.php?f=4&t=18927 I bought it off the classifieds on this board. Like I said I am not new to Jeeps, no even close. My first rig was an 88 YJ when I was 15. Started life with me as a bone stock daily driver. When it hit 4.5" lift, 33s and locked (spooled) I quit driving it daily but kept it kind of street legal for a while, then it got rebuilt again in to a comp rig It ended life at the NEUROC finals in '04 I think when I flipped it end for end off the wall at Paragon OffRoad Park. At that point it was injected, sprung over, wheel base stretched to 103", with a t18, Dana 20 case, 37" PitBulls (before they were available to the public, they didnt even have the name on them, they were test units) and 5.89 gears. After the daily driver duties were over I drove a diesel XJ for a while (wish I would have never sold that), then switched to a V8 ZJ (converted to 2wd/4wd instead of full time 4wd) when I took the YJ off the road and needed a tow rig. After that YJ was off the road I missed driving a YJ on the street so I build a "street Jeep". TBI 4.2, AX15, 4" lift, Dana 44s w/ 4.56s, and 35s. I still have this one but it is currently disassembled for a rebuild that start as a tub swap. It will get an automatic this round too. Frame is almost ready to go to sandblasting. Also owned an 2wd MJ with a HO 4.0. It needed some work but I bought it to race Jeep Speed when they were going to do that on the east coast. Never read the rules until after I had the MJ and found it did not qualify. I ended up selling that as it sat the day I bought it. Also had an 86 MJ that I parted out before I knew any better. :fool: After my YJ died I built a tube frame rock buggy. Kept enough of a YJ frame to qualify for the "Legends" class of NEUROC. I still have this rig. TBI4.3, full manual TH350, Dana 300, HP44/60, 5.38 gears, spooled rear, locked front, twin sticked, air shocks, 37" Toyos (again before you could get them)etc. I am currently switching to coilovers, they will hand jumping it better. I am hoping to race the King of the Hammers qualifier for 2011. :brows: I have been to Camp Jeep, Jeep Jamborees, NeuRoc, WeRoc, KOH qualifier, Carlisle Trucks shows, and SEMA. In case you havent figured it out, I used to work in the offroad industry (don't any more). Two different companies, one will remain nameless, but I am sure you have seem something I built or designed. The other was Whaley Enterprises, who is now out of business, they were the first to offer the cable operated twin stick shifter for the Dana 300 which I designed. OK know that I have told you way more about myself than any of you care about I am sure, I will say I have absoltuely NO experience with the RENIX EFI system. It seems like it is stuck in no mans land beteen ODBI and ODBII and has no self diagnostics, is this correct? :idea: My personal solution to this would be swapping in a 4.2 that is worked up a little bit and adding a GM TBI unit with a custom chip. Very reliable, cheap parts, very simple to troubleshoot. However since the 4.0 seems to be running good, and I have alot of projects right now and due to 4 month old twins not much time I will just leave that alone.....for now :chillin:

I just bought a 88MJ for a daily driver. The truck has had some work done to it but I am sure there are some things that I can do to make it more reliable and drive better. Its a 20 year old truck and I knew it would have issues but issues I can fix. I sold my DD Neon to buy this. I wanted to get back to a daily driver that had a manual transmission, was 4wd, and had the motor in the right way. Details of the truck: 4.0 w/ the Renix EFI 125,000 miles 99 XJ AX15 NP231 w/ hack and tap SYE 4" Suspension Lift 31" BFG ATKOs Dana30/35 with 3.55 gears AC Here is what I have found so far: The floor on the drivers side is rusted. Interior is coming out on Friday for new floor pans and fresh paint. The transmission need a new slave cylinder. Ordered new master/slave setup from the dealer, I will have it on Tuesday. Door windows seals are shot, order new from the dealer also, they will come Tuesday also. Now I know you will tell me not to buy stuff from the dealer due to price, I am new to MJs but not to Jeeps and I have a "connection" at the dealer so I don't pay anywhere near what someone off the street pays. Drivers door is rusted on the bottom but not bad. Presumably from the window seals and probably clogged drain holes. I will replace the rusted metal once the window seals are fixed. Drivers window does not roll up if rolled all the way down. The window seams to run crooked in the track and the regulator seem to have a tight spot, more than like do to the leaky windows seals, I will the door apart and make the necessary fixes. The window is also chipped at the top, probably from someone try to pull the window up with a pliers after it wouldnt roll back up. I will replace that, 4 door XJ glass will fit, correct?? Rear brakes are almost non functional. Going to run a single new line to the rear, swap in a YJ proportioning valve, replace the rear hose and lines on the rear axle. Brakes themselves are all new, wheel cylinder, shoes, drums, adjusters, springs, etc. Rear brakes seem to hang up after the ebrake has been used. Going to blame this on the cables. I will pull them and see if the issue goes away, if so I will try to lube them or replace them, my dealership guy says they are still available. Truck has AC but the condensor is shot and I would rather have the window down. AC components (excpet for the compressor)will be removed as time permits. Compressor will be converted to an OBA system with a tank mounted under the bed where the tire normally is (all that hardware is missing). Tierod is bent a little, will replace it with V8 ZJ stuff and have it realigned. When I grab that stuff I will probably grab the sway bar from the ZJ also and swap that in. Headliner is missing, not sure what I will do about that but that can wait. Battery tray is rusted out, I will fix that and may relocated the battery under the bed, if not I will make a good battery try for it. What else am I missing? Things that normally go wrong. I think mainly I am worried about the Renix injection system. There are alot of vacum lines under the hood that are 20 years old. I will probably try to replace them all but I am sure there are some gotchas under that hood. I have a computer and wiring harness from an HO 4.0 from another project but I do now want to get into a HO swap right now, I just need this thing to be a driver. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated or any reason why any of the above idea are bad ideas.

I just bought my first MJ to use as a daily driver. The rear brakes are a mess. I had to drive the truck 100 miles to get it home, luckily I have a friend that lives near where I got the truck so less than 10 minutes after I had the keys in my hands we had it up on his lift to check it out for the ride home. The previous owner had told me everything in the rear brakes was new, evidentally "everything" means everything but the wheel cylinders both of which were leaking and seized up. We replaced both cylinders and the brakes improved enough to drive it home but they are still not acceptable for daily use. I highly doubt the load sensing valve is working with as rust as it looks and the fact that both rear wheel cylinders were seized (they probably have moved in along time) It looks like one of the two lines coming from the master cylinder has been replaced. The is also a compression T that is plumbed in after the load sensing valve which appears to be an attempt at bypassing it but after the reading I have done is incorrect. I have a bunch of YJ proportioning valves laying around from other builds and I am consider using one of those running a new rear brake line to get rid of the load valve. Seems to me that a YJ valve would be better suited for use on the MJ than an XJ valve. The YJs are lighter in the rear than the XJ and I seem to remember a XJ valve swap done on YJs to increase rear braking power. Does this sound like a good idea? The rear brakes also seem to hanging up. I am betting it is due to the ebrake cables. I am going to disconnect the cables as see if that solves the problem. If the cables are hanging is there a way to lubricate them or do the need to be replaced? If so are the available anywhere? And should I look at cables from a different application due to the 4" lift that is on this MJ? I am looking forward to getting this MJ on the road, daily driving my V8 ZJ is hard on the wallet at 13mpg. Plus its been a long time since I daily drove a manual transmission and I am looking forward to it, I like driving a stick. The ZJ will then go back to its duties as bad weather driver for my wife and tow rig for my rock buggy. Any help is greatly appreciaed.

Alot of what you guys are mentioning isnt that difficult to build with the right tools and experience, have most of what I need but havent finished designing my tube bender (tub roller already covered) and still havent talked myself into the CNC plasma table. Hopefully I am picking up my first streetable MJ this weekend. I have some ideas for mods I want to do but have other projects first. Buggy needs front suspension redo, YJ needs to be completely assembled, and a jon boat that needs some more seats for my kids. I will look at the gas tank and see what I can come up with for a skid. I am new to the forum so I don't want to say too much and get in trouble. What are the rules about offering stuff for sale, other than used parts/trucks in the classified section?

I have a garage with a lift and let me be the first to tell you that when you have a lift your garage will NEVER be empty, "friends" crawl out of the woodwork when you have a lift. Not that it matters because one of my projects is usually on it anyway. Same rig sat on the lift for almost 4 months, broke the lift Sunday, Friday wife went into the hospital, week later our twins were born, not so much shop time anymore but it is getting better.

You mentioned the HF bead roller with the disclaimer that you get what you pay for. Habor Freight tools are just like MJs or any Jeep. They are just a starting point and they are only as good as you make them. I agrees that the HF bead roller leaves alot be desired in stock form.... http://www.jeepsrus.org/megabbs/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=69&photoid=1213 However with a little work they can be a very good tool. Spend a few hours on Saturday afternoon making the HF bead roller a very effective tool. All 2" tubing, the tubing around the throat is 2" .25 wall, everything else is 2" .120wall..... http://www.jeepsrus.org/megabbs/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=69&photoid=1214 Bought the roller on sale, actually my wife bought it (I think so I would just quit talking about it) so I have less than $150 and about 3-4 hours in this set up. Have yet to find anything it couldnt do. I can run 1/2" beads in sheet metal at full depth in one pass. Just wanted to add that in, great writeup BTW, I may have some of this work coming up. ***Edit - I can't get the pictures to come up so I posted the links