Mikethe80sFanatic
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Everything posted by Mikethe80sFanatic
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Output of the new one is roughly .4v AC. Are you asking about the Advance Mod or drilling out the mounting holes? I have not done either.
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Aftermarket Tachometer
Mikethe80sFanatic replied to jdritch's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
IIRC, there is a blade terminal on the coil that is for a tach signal. Or you could just tap into the positive coil wire. If you are going to run an aftermarket tach. Tachs that read off the alternator/etc.Have to be Adjusted/Tuned. I had an Autometer tach for my old 84 F250 with the 6.9 IDI . It came with a huge band clamp to strap the sensor to the alt. Then, You have to find out what your rpm should be in direct drive (1:1) at 55mph. Then preferably have a 2nd person adjust the tach to match while you are driving. -
Got a little update on my Comanche. It's been running "Ok" since the last post. Not running perfect, But hasn't left us stranded or thought it would. Until this past weekend. Big local Car Cruise near our home was over the weekend. My fiance was going to take it up to our car club's spot( I was at work). But it just cranked and wouldnt start. A friend came by and put some gas in it, and it started up. So she drove it up to our spot. I get there about an hour or so after. And hop in it to go drive in the cruise, Again it just cranked. So I started checking around. Fuel pump: Didn't hear it priming. Checked for spark: None. And finally, It hit me... I never checked the CPS other than a "Visual" inspection...its there and plugged in. Even after hours of looking through this forum and others. And Cruiser's Renix tips for an answer that was obvious lol. So I unplugged it and plugged it back in. And she fired up. Drove it home, And checked it with my volt meter. Of course, Averaged less than .29V AC. Picked up a new one from Napa and now she's running great. I'll try an post pics of the old CPS...Because my visual inspection wasn't good lol. This was a lesson learned for sure.
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No. You may have more than one issue. The ECM is also clueless as to whether you just filled the tank. I figured the ECM was clueless of the fuel level. I'm asking if the ECM recognizes voltage or a lack of voltage from the fuel pump. I could believe there may be more than one issue. But it has not lost spark at any other point except for these 3 times.
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Ok, Makes sense except for one thing. Why would it also be loosing spark as well? Does the ECM kill the spark when it reads intermittent/no voltage from the pump?
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Ok, So an update on my Comanche. Replaced the wires...BWD brand for the time being. And so far it has not been an issue. Additionally, I cleaned and dielectric grease the coil contacts. But, I've had a new issue pop up. Which has left me baffled. 3 separate times I've fueled it up. completely...it will start back up right away. 1 time at the pump, and 2 times, I left it running to fuel. drove it home and parked it. Came back out to it 5-20 minutes later. Same thing. Cranks over nice and strong. Eventually it will start...after 20 minutes of messing with it and cranking. What I've noticed when this "Issue" takes place. -When I fuel it up all the way. the gas pump seems like it shuts off late. I.E a splash of fuel shoots out the filler all over. -When I turn the key on...occasionally, I do not hear the pump prime. or it's only for a second, if that. -I "checked" for pressure at the rail. was there everytime. Did not have a Fuel pressure gauge to confirm exact psi at these instances. -The first time it happened. I swapped relays around and it fired up...Which with all these. would make you think a fuel system problem. But I think it was a lucky timing thing. -The 3rd time this happened. I had a spark tester on me. No spark while cranking...at first. after a few minutes. When I would let off the key when cranking, I'd get some weak spark before it stopped rolling over. Then I would start to get random sparks(still weak) while cranking. Then after a few more minutes. it would fire up and run. And would start up every single time after. -If I don't fuel it to when the nozzle stops. this issue doesn't surface. I still leave the truck running still, just in case. I am going to test the CPS. And once I get a little more time. I will drop the tank and inspect the tank vents. But other than that. I'm at a loss haha.
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The Wires will be replaced as well. But bills had to be paid first...Darn Adult responsibilities lol.
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Well, when I bought it. I glanced under the cap and rotor. But it was getting dark and I forgot my flashlight. Fast forward to last night. I figure I should double check. Well the the terminals on the cap and rotor were toast. Which made me check the plugs. They were junk. 2 different kinds and none were gapped properly. So cap, rotor, and plugs later. I haven't had the issue come up yet. It doesn't smell as rich out the tailpipe. Pulls further up the Rev band then it has before. And hasn't given me any issues starting back up.
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Please watch the video I posted if you haven't yet. It will show you exactly what I'm dealing with. Once its running. It runs great. Revs easy and quick, Pulls hard...harder than my woman's HO XJ. Cruises great. haven't been able to get an accurate mpg yet. No hesitation or stumble. Only has a slight wandering idle. I've replaced the TPS and adjusted it. And cleaned the TB and IAC. I know the exhaust has been pieced together over the years. I am unsure of the Cat's condition/age. I know its heat shield is strapped together. I will have to do the vacuum test to check for restrictions. Now, If the coil was bad/going bad. Wouldn't I get more of a "no spark" condition? To me, It seems like the issue would be with the ignition module telling the coil when to fire. Or the dizzy. Does/should the Camshaft position sensor/Sync Signal Generator have any sort of movement to it? For advancing/retarding the timing? like weights and springs in a an older dizzy? The majority of my more serious ignition system dealings have been with Ford Duraspark II systems.
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I came home from work today. I let the truck sit for an hour or 2. I came back out to try and start it. Same issue. Pulled the coil wore off and it cranked over fine. Plugged the coil wire back in. And the issue came back. Any thoughts on where I should start? Coil, ignition module or perhaps the distributor?
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So, here are my findings from yesterday. When the cranking issue came up again. I pulled the coil wire off, and cranked it. And for a good 10-15 seconds, It cranked over just fine. Plugged the coil wire back. and it fired up with no issues several times in a row. I took it for a quick drive. and it started up a few times without issues. I let it sit while I finished up replacing the front pinion seal on my fiance's XJ. And when I came back to start it. The cranking issue came back. I pulled the coil wire, and the FP relay as well. And cranked it over for a good 30 seconds. And it spun over without issue the entire time. Plugged it all back in. And it started up without issue the dozen times in a row I tried. So It looks like I will look into further testing of the coil. While going over this yesterday. I also noted a bad fan clutch. And my O2 Heater relay was much warmer than the other 3 relays. So I swapped it out with the "Power Latch" relay for the time being. I will test the relay this weekend.
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Thanks everyone for your replies. -I have replaced the Starter Relay. There was no change. -Battery was loaded tested at the local O'reillys. With one of their Handheld deals...Like I said, I hooked my jumpbox/charger up to it. And It still did it. -I have checked, double checked and triple checked my connections cold and warm. But I will check again. -It does seem similar to advanced timing. As My Bronco will crank slow if I have it a bit to advanced. But It's a slow crank right from the start. Where as the Comanche starts off strong and then goes back and forth. I know the timing is non-adjustable. But it should be at 12 degrees when idling correct? -I will try pulling the coil wire and cranking when I get home from work. I will post my findings then.
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It did it with the original starter. I replaced when I got it home. Still did it. I had it loaded tested several times in a row. It passed every time. But the wiring from the solenoid to the motor would get hot. So they warrantied it. And no change with this one.(2nd new one.) It does not sound like it is staying engaged. The ring gear looks to be in good shape.
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Hi Everyone, This is my 1st post. I picked up this Comanche a little over a month ago(My first!). It is a 88 2wd/lwb Pioneer 4.0/Aw4. 222k on the clock. The original owner purchased it in Missouri. Lived there for a few years before moving to Florida. Then recently made its way to Michigan to his granddaughter here. When once she realized the amount of work needed. She sold it to the shop she took it too. And I purchased it from them. It still has most of it's original window sticker. it is 100% rust free. It has been repainted at some point. The AW4 was rebuilt about 18k miles ago. The shop I bought it from redid the top end due to a bad HG. all new Cooling system. Still the closed-loop. full tune-up. What I've done: replaced the self-destructing balancer, Timing set, TPS, Starter, Starter relay, Cables, re-freshed grounds. added a ground to the core support from the battery, and I left the body to engine ground strap. but added with it a cable from the body to a intake heat shield bolt. Now here is the issue, which has been present since before I purchased it...It starts just fine when it has sat for several hours(overnight, or while I'm at work. Once it is warm. It struggles to start. It will start cranking strong, then it will slow down like the battery is almost dead, and then pick back up, slow down etc. Sometimes it will start while doing this. Or it may take me a couple tries until it lights off. Then sometimes it will fire up with no issues. But that is very rare. I checked the timing, seems to be where it should be. Battery was load tested and passed. The Alt. charges as it should...14.4v. I jumpered the ballast resistor, no difference. Fuel pressure is at 30-31psi w/ vac. 37-38 w/out vac. the vac line to reg. does smell of fuel, but is not damp. I also disconnected the A/C Clutch and no change. When it happens. There is a large voltage drop when it slows. I've noted with my volt meter on the batt. It will drop to 9v, even 8v when it slows, then voltage will come back up to over 10v when it speeds back up. I've even tried hooking a jump box to it, and still happens. I feel that it is some sort of "Heat Soak" Issue. A buddy mentioned possibly the coil. It does appear to be original. I've lurked on this site and have checked countless others. And haven't seen anyone else having a similar problem. I'll post/link my youtube video so you all can see for yourself what I'm dealing with. https://youtu.be/fAZT_wsADR0 <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/fAZT_wsADR0"frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>