jdritch

Ok so i am forgetting about an aftermarket tach cause it sounds like a lot of work. Those instructions are helpful, the only question raised currently about doing a cluster swap is do the temp and oil pressure sensor have to be from the vehicle the new cluster comes from. Meaning if i get a cluster from an 87 cherokee will the sensors have to be the ones that come from an 87 cherokee. If I was able to get a factory MJ cluster that had a tach would I have to swap the sensors or would the current ones already on my truck work? Another question i just thought of is which year range are you saying will need minor tweaks and what are those tweaks?

Are you talking out of a cherokke or another comanche?

Yes i did search the forum for this. No guarantee that i searched hard enough but i did search. I am looking at putting a tach into my comanche. I recently saw a video of an MJ with a custom dash cluster. In the video the guy also had something I might try to do. In one of the empty spots under the digital radio he has a digital tachometer mounted. Here is the video I saw I found a digital tach on two websites and was wondering if anyone could tell me if they would work on an MJ with the I6 and how they would wire in. Website 1 Website 2 PS: If anyone on here has ever used these are they any good. Also not pertaining to this topic if anyone needs a wiring diagram, code information, instructions for changing something, etc., i have access to ALLDATA which, if anyone doesn't know what it is, is a large automotive database. It has most things for an MJ just not all.

Ill be putting pictures of the truck on here tomorrow. Haven't had time to get to it. When i hopefully begin the process of repainting the truck ill start a project thread.

1987 Jeep Comanche(MJ) 4.0L I6 Link to Pictures: http://imgur.com/a/sVVM4 (Couldn't figure out how to post images) Engine: 4.0L I6 EFI "Power Tech" - 177 hp @ 4750 rpm, 220 ft lb @ 4000 rpm; 240,xxx Miles. Transmission: AX15 - 5 speed manual - manufactured by Aisin Transfercase: NP231 - "Command-Trac" part-time only - 2.72:1 ratio low range Front Axle: Dana 30 high pinion - reverse cut - 27 spline, 1.16" diameter shafts, 7.13" ring gear Rear Axle: Dana 35 non c-clip - 27 spline, 1.18" diameter shafts, 7.58" ring gear, 2.62" axle tube WheelBase: 119.4" (7ft. x 5ft.) Longbed, I believe it has an 18 or 19 gal gas tank. Build Date: Month Unknown, 1987 (sticker is mostly gone and unreadable) Current Location: Boone County, Arkansas Status: Daily driver to school and college. Also a project that I plan on restoring. Notes: Aftermarket fog lights mounted on front bumper. Original factory sport truck roll bar. Perks to rusted out floor boards: You can unlock the truck if you lock your keys in. Exterior: Red, Hood and roof have lost there clear coat. Want to repaint it a different color, not a big fan of the color red. Driver side rear fender has started to rust out. Driver side floorboard is no where to be found. Passenger side floor has started to rust out. A few dents on the bed. The inside of the bed is rust free. Black factory fender flares. Interior: All black interior. Vinyl and cloth bench seat. Aftermarket dual radio. Aftermarket front JVC 5-1/4" speakers. Pretty sure the rear 4x6 speakers are factory. Floor shifter. The dash has cracked in one spot above the gauges. The only tear on the seat is on the driver side on the very edge. Center console found at a thrift store mainly for the cupholders. Current Owner: Me hopefully for the rest of its life.

According to ALLDATA: . On all engines the thermostat is closed below 195°F (90°C) . This is on the 4.0L motor. Your water pump could be starting to go out. A way to test a thermostat that i have seen is to take it out and put it in really hot water and watch to see if it opens. You can test the water pump by: With the engine off and the key removed from the ignition, attempt to move the pulley from side to side and back and forth. There should be no detectable movement. The pulley should turn smoothly, with no rough spots. The water pump should be replaced if any pulley wobble is detected. If the water pump is not replaced the pump shaft may eventually seize or break. OR After the engine has warmed carefully feel the upper and lower radiator hose. The temperature of the hoses should be very close or the same temperature. If the top radiator hose is hot and the bottom one is cold then it could be your water pump because that would mean that the coolant is not circulating.(how we tested the mustang) My dad has a mustang and it would keep overheating and we tried 2 new thermostats and finally we checked the water pump and found out its bearings were going bad and on the inside the blades of the water pump had ground a deep groove into the water pump housing. The coolant also had a rust color to it. The water pump was not creating enough pressure.