JACKED88

LOL!!! Your number musta come up as a "private number". :no: We don't do private numbers around here. Those are usually frickin bill collectors. Yeah, I want it. Fixin to call ya.

Ummmm, NO. I just found a 95 Country that has a 4 banger, 5 speed and he claims 4.11's. http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/1444481321.html I sent tha guy a message and he returned with this .... I've attached a pic of the rear diff but there is no tag on it. I seem to remember that the gear ratio was 4:11 if that's what you wanted to know. It is a 5 speed manual transmission and the transfer case is not full time. On why the transmission got stuck in neutral, I had a couple of people tell me it could have been nothing more then a shifting fork but never had the money to get it looked at. It is the Country model with 101,000 miles. I do remember doing research on the transmission, AX15 5-speed manual, it was a bit pricey for a used one. If you have any other questions just let me know. Tha pix he sent are of a 4cyl motor and what looks to me like a D35. If I can figure out how I'll post tha pix. Damn, I thought I had found the perfect doner vehicle till I saw tha D35. I'm also waiting for a reply to an 89 Limited I found ..... http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/1444349302.html Figured it might be worth a look since I also need tha trans and t/c. Talked to a j/y today who said they had a 87-90 XJ trans and t/c for $250 bucks. Thats not bad but for another $250 I could have a whole vehicle. (the 89 Limited although they say its not running)

DONE!!! Below you'll find my phone number so we can set up a time and place to meet. Ummm, I'm thinkin sometime after noon if thats OK with you? don't suppose you have any MJ lower shock mounts/plates? Just give me a call. 281-392-5069 Thanks!!! Robert

Considering I don't expect to find a XJ/MJ with a 44 still in it, I need to know which axle (8.8 or 8.25) is gonna have the best traction control, limited slip, locker or whatever you wanna call it. I'm not really into doin axle work. Not that I don't think I could, I just can't want to. I just wanna drive this thing. I don't think I should need a bunch of H/D or special parts just to drive through a little mud now and then. I don't climb mountains, crawl over big @$$ rocks, git airborn or see how fast I can go through a mud pit. All I need my truck to do is git me down some muddy trails on flat ground. I aint sceerd of doin tha work, but tha more we talk about it, tha more I think changing axles is gonna cost me money I don't really have. I know yall say 35's are weak but they've been gittin people down muddy trials for years. For my application, do I really need to go to the expence of changing axles? Yes, getting back where all this started my 35 is making noise and I know I'm gonna have to replace or repair it. IF, I can replace it for the same cost as fixing it, then by all means I'll replace it. Yall have already made me aware that my XJ axle isnt set up properly and I need to do all tha same mods to it that I'd have to do to a replacement axle. I think if I can repair my 35 for less than replacing it, I'd rather save tha money and put it towards a tranny and t/c so I'll actually have a four wheel drive truck to git down those muddy trails in. Not to mention I also need to git my front end set up properly before I connect power to it. (6" springs, adj track bar and adj control arms) Basicly it comes down to $$$. Which am I gonna be able to do tha cheapest??? Repair or replace? I wouldnt think a used 8.8 or 8.25 would be very expencive. But then neither should be a set of bearings for a 35. Sorry this is so long winded. I'm apparently thinkin outloud and hoping yall bare with me till I figure out what to do. Can yall tell me what bearings and seals cost for a 35? How bout gears? (4.11's or 4.27's) I think 4.56's would be to low for hwy use. I'll call around tomorrow and see what axles are goin for but I need to know what all I'm looking for. I'm sure their gonna ask me what make and model I need it for. Yeah,,,,,,,,, its a 19?? or 20?? Chryford 4x4 with an engine. :huh???: So far we have ........ a 97+ XJ with a 8.25, any year Liberty with a 8.25, a Ford 4x4 Explorer with an 8.8 (need to know what years on tha Ford) What about a 4x4 Dodge Dakota or Durango? Do they run 8.25's? (if so, need to know what years) --------------------------------------------------------------- OK, I just found this spec sheet on tha Country model XJ. (note it claiming they came with the "trailer towing group" and "Trac-Loc" dif) If what this says is true, what axle and gears will a Country have? Aslo, what all year model will have this axle setup and would one be a candidate for my replacement? 1997 Jeep Cherokee Country by Nick Hromiak SPECIFICATIONS ENGINE: 4.0L OHV 6-cylinder HORSEPOWER/TORQUE: 190-hp and 225 ft/lbs of torque at 3,000 rpm TRANSMISSION: 4-speed electronically controlled automatic FUEL ECONOMY: 15 city, 21 highway mpg WHEELBASE: 101.4 in. OVERALL LENGTH: 167.5 in. OVERALL WIDTH: 67.9 in. OVERALL HEIGHT: 64.0 in. CURB WEIGHT: 3,153 lbs. (4-door) FUEL CAPACITY: 20.0 gals. LUGGAGE CAPACITY: 34.06/71 cu. ft. (rear seat up/down) TIRES: P225/75R15 Goodyear Wrangler RT/S INSTRUMENTATION: Uncluttered, easy to read with large dials for HVAC EQUIPMENT: Leather/vinyl seats power driver seat, Country Package includes A/C, tilt wheel, cruise control, trailer towing group, full size spare, skid plates, HD radiator, special shocks, Track-Lok Differential, 4-wheel ABS, overhead console, Select-Trac 4WD, sunscreen glass, rear window defroster, dual power heated mirrors, fog lamps, AM/FM stereo cassette/CD, six premium Infinity speakers. STICKER PRICE: $27,970 Thanks guys. I know this is a lot to keep track of. Hell, even I've had to go back and read it about a dozen times. :???:

Ahhhh, there in-lies a problem. I don't have any of the MJ axle stuff.

THANKS. YOU GUYS ARE GREAT!!! Now back to axles. I don't know about tha rest of you but I'm gonna be lookin for an axle thats gonna require the least amout of mods as pessible. I'm not afraid of cutting and welding but naturally tha less that has to be done tha better. With that said, on a scale of dificulty, which axle/axles are gonna have the least amount of mods for instalation?

OK, but just remember ................. you ask for it!!! I hope tha rest of yall fully understand what Pete just got you into. I've got a long list of un-answered question. :doh: (if I could just remember where I put it) :???:

Thats quite obvious. And for those of us who need it truely appreciate yalls help. I just don't wanna be a pest asking the same questions that have likely been answered countless times or every time somebody new comes along. With that said .......... You can count on me BOSS. I won't let ya down. LOL!!!

Damn Pete. Is there anything you don't know about Jeeps??? LOL!!! I thought I done good finding that info after hours of surfing. :typing: Now I know I can save lots of time by just askin you. :bowdown: LMAO!!!

Most likely cheaper too!!! So what Chryco vehicles have tha 8.25's in um? And, what kind of mods are required to install it?

Didnt know that. Reckon I'll have to take a look and do some measuring. (just read an article that said the difference is half an inch) Been surfin around readin info on D44's in XJ's and MJ's. Apparently Jeep only put 44's in XJ's that had a factory tow package and in the long bed MJ's that had the "metric ton package". However, for whatever reason not all XJ's with a tow package actually received a D44 rear end. :???: Read something about the upper end XJ models were the most likely candidates to find 44's in. That the upper end models received more of the optional tow packages than the more base models did. I'll continue my search for a doner XJ or long bed MJ. Sure be nice to find one that has everything I need in working order. (auto trans, 242 t/c and a 44) I LIKE TO DREAM BIG!!!

The block is essentially the same but the ports on the HO heads are shaped differently and raised up higher. Some people have managed to modify either the HO head or the Renix manifold to be able to bolt them together, but due to the mismatch of the port shapes it's just not a good idea unless you have no choice. Also, the Renix has a temperature sensor down low on the left (driver's) side of the block for providing temp data to the ECU. The HO engines use a sensor in the thermostat housing to send data to the ECU. OK, so what about a pre HO motor? (01 and earlier)

I didnt think tha longblock itself had changed. If thats true, why can't he buy a newer model motor and put his 87 intake and exaust on it. There may be a few other little differences like tha flywheel for his CPO and maybe the harmonic balancer but tha longblock itself aughta be tha same. RIGHT ????????? If not, whats tha difference in tha newer blocks and heads that would prevent him from installing his 87 accessaries on it???

OOPS!!! Sorry Pete. Other than the obvious of moving the XJ's passenger side shock mount from the front to behind the axle, Wouldnt it be easier while your at it to just move both of the XJ shock mounts inward about an inch or so for shock to spring clearance? That lack of clearance was the only problem I saw when I installed my shocks. Though I hate to admit it, I installed tha shocks upside down so the shock wouldnt be rubbing on the inside of tha spring. I knew it wasnt right but its all I could come up that would work at tha time. Moving tha shock mounts inward an inch would eliminate that problem. Details ....... the previous owner started a 4x4 conversion and installed the axles out of an 88 XJ under this truck. In the rear he did a SOA and a pathetic excuse for a 5-6 inch lift in the front. Thats as far as he got. Since I've owned it, all I've done was remove the passenger side shock mount and re-weld it on the back side of the axle in order to install the shocks he gave me. After relocating the passenger shock mount I tried to install the shocks but found that they were too close to the inside edge of the leaf spring. Therefore the only way I could install tha shocks was to install um upside down. In doing so the shaft of the shock would then clear the leaf spring without rubbing. Tha shocks just barely hit or rubbed even when installed righ side up. So .... if the shock mounts were moved inward on the axle about an inch the shocks would no longer hit or rub against tha springs when installed properly. By doing this I don't see any reason why the spring perches would need to be moved. Unless I'm missing something and this won't work, please speak up and explain why. Oh, one more thing. I did noice that the angle of the shocks was a little off. That could easily be corrected by properly aligning the shock mounts before re-welding them to the axle. They would need to be rotated downward a bit.

Will tha shock plates still work with a leaf over lift? Finding MJ parts is tough down here. Seems like most of um are up north. Not likely that I'll find an MJ with a good 44 under it. XJ's however are plentiful. don't know "Pete" or where to find his diagram.

Please see edited version of previous post.

There's no concern. DON'T do it. You gotta move tha spring perches or tha passenger shock mount? I know about tha XJ shock mounts being staggered where as the MJ's are both in tha rear. No problem. The previous owner put an XJ axle in this truck but never finished tha job so I had to relocate the passenger side shock mount in order to mount tha shocks he gave me with tha truck. Why do the spring perches need to be relocated? You talkin about on the frame or on the axle?Good to know info on tha different gears. Thanks. I assume all 4x4 models with a 44 rear will have matching gears in tha front. What front axle will be in a vehicle with a 44 rear"? Another 44? Other???

I don't do hard wheeling so I think a 242 will do just fine. Still need to know what all years of XJ's I need to be looking for as a doner vehicle to pull tha trans and t/c out of. Are there any other vehicles other than XJ's that run tha same trans and t/c? While we're at it, I need to know tha same info on what years and models I can pull a rear 44 out of. Amongst other things, I still have concerns about running different gears in front and rear. Robert This has some great info on Jeep 4x4 systems http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_four_ ... ve_systems But it doesnt help much as far as what will or won't interchange.

With that in consideration, I think I'll stick with a 242. Who knows, maybe someday hell will in fact freeze over and I'll need full time 4x4 to git through all tha snow tha falls ..... in Houston. :roll: :laughin: LOL!!!

Gonna respond to all yalls replies in one post. First let my extend my thanks and appreciation to all of you for your help. -------------------------------------------- No, I havent noticed any kind of a clunk when going from excellerating to braking. Nore does it clunk when put into gear or go from forward to reverse but I'll double chech it. --------------------------------------------- I'll drop tha driveshaft and check tha u-joints as suggested but I think my growling is gonna be a bit more extensive. --------------------------------------------- Thanks for explaining the difference in tha t/c's for me. I know how a Selec-Trac (242) works since apparently thats what I had in my 89 XJ Limited. (full time/part time 4x4) I also have two sons that own a couple ZJ's that have tha same full time/part time Selec-Trac. Considering that we live in tha south and don't have much use for full time four wheel drive, would a 231 Command Trac be a better choice for me? Besides tha full time part time capability of a 242, is one better or more durable than the other? Let me back up a bit. In case your wondering why I'm asking for t/c info, I'm trying to complete the 4x4 conversion the previous owner started on this truck but have yet to find a tranny or t/c for it. I wanna stay with an auto trans (AW4) but what t/c to run is undecided. I assume both tha 231 and 242 will bolt up to an AW4 behind a 4.0 I'm looking for a doner XJ to pull a working tranny, t/c, t/c shifter and linkage out of. My truck is an 88 model so what all year models of a doner do I need to be looking for? Been told 87 to 90 but won't that depend on what t/c I decide to use? Between tha two (231/242) isnt there a difference in tha number of shaft input/output splines? (21/23) I'll definately have more ????? for ya later. ------------------------------------------ Yeah, I'd like/need to replace my 35 with a 44. Tell me this, if I find a 44 for tha rear with lower gears than my front 30 has, will that burn one or the other up? How bout if I only lock in the front while offroad and likely in wet/muddy conditions? Would it make a difference if I had a full time/part time t/c inwhich allows the front and rear to turn at different speeds? And or, would that promote premature wear and eventually burn up tha t/c? --------------------------------------------- I think I told yall in another thread that I don't do hard core offroading. This truck see's more pavement than it does dirt. I only need to use 4x4 to crawl around on the often muddy roads/trails where I do wild hog trapping. Thats about all the offroading it'll ever see. Yalls years of experience and your generosity to share it with others is truely appreciated. Thanks again. Robert

I agree that its something in tha rearend but how or why would it be smooth and quiet while its under power but not when decelerating? One would think that a bad bearing is a bad bearing regaurdless of which dirrection the torque it recieves is coming from. :dunno: This thing vibrates pretty good when decelerating from highway speeds. Enough so that I don't like to do it. I feather tha gas to keep it from growling and or vibrating down to about 35mph.

My D35 growls when I let off tha gas. Sounds fine runnin down tha road but as soon as I let off tha gas it starts growling at me. I can also feel a vibration. I've held my hand on tha auto shifter and don't really feel much there but I can feel it pretty much throughout tha whole rear half of tha truck. What is it??? Thanks. Robert As stupid as it may sound to some of you, I've got a transfer case question ........... Whats tha difference in a NP231, a 231 and a 231 J? Are they all Selectrac? And if so why tha different numbers? If not, which one is Selectrac?

OK, so if I get 4.5" springs, I'm also gonna need some 1'-1 1/2" spacers to get a 6" lift. I've heard pro's and con's about using spacers. I know its a poor mans way to lift your suspention and by no means tha best way but is it an exceptable means to level your truck if done in moderation? Or ...... I get the 6.5" and either cut um down to 6" or lift tha rear another 1/2" to level it out. Damn, if I go any higher, I'm gonna need a damn step ladder to get in it. LOL!!! Thinkin I'd rather drop tha rear a little and go with tha 4.5" springs and no spacers. How can I drop tha rear 1"-1 1/2"? Are there any rear shackles available that are shorter than stock? I assume tha ones I have are stock. They measure 3 3/4" from eye to eye. Thanks again everybody. Robert

Thanks guys. I appreciate yall sharing your knowledge and experience. Sounds like Ironman is making some durable parts at a reasonable price. I hope to find and order some springs in tha next couple of weeks with Ironman's track bar and control arms to follow. I've been told that Rough Country spings actually give you more lift than they say. In other words their 4.5" springs actually give you closer to 5.5" of lift and 6.5" springs give you over 7". Can anybody varify this? Thanks again. Robert

Need to know if Ironman Suspension parts are any good. Lookin to buy one of their adjustable track bars and a set of their adjustable upper and lower control arms all designed for up to an 8 inch lift. (I have 6") I don't do hard core offroading or rock crawling. Just an occasional "crawl" through the woods down muddy and somewhat rutted roads. Nothing a stock 4x4 couldnt do. Maybe yall can help me even more. I don't know all tha best places to buy suspension parts or who has tha biggest bang for the buck. I'm lookin for low budget parts that can handle very moderate offroading. My truck see's more pavement than it does dirt/mud. These "Ironman" parts look and sound like they'd work fine for my application. Not to mention from what I've seen so far, their prices arent bad either. http://www.ironman4x4fab.com/XJ_Inventory.html Thanks in advance for whatever advice yall can offer me. Robert Oh, I'm also lookin for some 6 inch front springs. I'm considering a pair of Rough Country's for $140 bucks unless yall advise me otherwise.