Lftrn97

So the starter on me 89 4.0 crapped out and I had a good shade tree mechanic install a new one but it began to clatter after starting like the flex plate is broken. However i had a new flexplate installed a year ago. I found a thread where folks talked about shimming the starter and the experience and advice was all over the place. Some said the old starter was shimmed but the replacement didn't need any while others said the replacement came with shims and instructions to use them if necessary. Others suggested that the replacement starter could have a different nose length. Just trying to provide some input to my mechanic if you have any experience with this. Thanks.

So after two years of dealing with periodic overheating I finally stumbled on a solution that has worked...REPLACE THE COOLANT BOTTLE CAP IN YOUR RENIX CLOSED SYSTEM WITH A VOLVO CAP PART #9445462. get it from the volvo dealer,best $40 i've spent.

I've had work done be a couple of general shops but am looking for a reference to a renix specialist. '89 Pioneer 4.0 2wd auto with air. Thanks in advance.

Have I asked the question right? There seems to be a underneath the breaker but I tried pressing it up and gently pulling it down with no effect. Doesn't seem like it has a retaining screw or bolt yet is really resists being pulled straight out. Appreciate any advice you might have.

Anybody know??

1989 4.0 automatic pioneer...does wiper circuit breaker just pull out or is there a trick to getting it out?Just don’t want to force anything.

good idea. will do in the morning.

i agree...thanks.

1989 4.0...Trans shop replaced flex plate about a month ago and this week it had a couple of "crank no start" episodes. The first time it sat for 3-4 hours before I went back to call for a tow. I tried it first and it fired right up. Started a bunch over the next four days then did it again and I had it towed to a shop. After sitting overnight I just went to the shop and it fired right up twice. Seems like its the CPS or maybe NSS but I have two questions: 1. Is there any significance to the fact that it fires after sitting, like something resets; and, 2. Could the flex plate work have done something to either the CPS or NSS (they had to drop the trans)?

Thanks. They really grip the backer board and i guess i'll have to bend them open

So how do you handle the two side clips? Do the clips remove from the window frame or do you pull the board out of the clip by bending it?

Anybody know if a 1989 Chevy Blazer will swap into 89 comanche pioneer? Also the shop thinks that the amount of wobble in my tilt column means that something is broken and tightening the bolts won't fix it. The symptom is that it blows the fusible link to the fuel pump relay when the wheel is turned right. Any thoughts?

Same thing. Mine was the starter switch solenoid located near the battery. $30 and 10 minutes and it was fixed.

Thanks about to dive into them and need all the info I can get.

Bought a nice pair of buckets from scrap yard wreck that had had a head on from the look of things. The impact appears to have caused the seat backs to tilt fully forward beyond the normal limit and they are locked there. I had seen an article somewhere on fixing this but lost the reference to it. Just wondering if anyone saw this or any reference to correcting this. Or any advice on how i fix this. Thanks.

1989 Comanche Pioneer 4.0 automatic stopped shifting out of first so i pulled the TCM fuse and it shifts fine manually. Does this mean for sure that the TCM is bad?

Will do and report back

Thanks for the idea but I have tried it in Park, Neutral and with the steering column down and up. When it goes dead it is dead, but I'll check the NSS anyway plus all the grounds. Still wondering about the solonoid and whether it can get "hung up".

Need to add that's it 2wd automatic with the tilt wheel column. And thany you for your thoughts.

Just bought an '89 with a 4.0 swapped from an 1997 (he said). The installation looks clean and the truck runs great...WHEN IT STARTS. After about 5-8 starts it suddenly is completely dead when the key is turned to crank it. Accessory posiiton works and all panel lights come on witrh first click then when turned to the final position...nothing. No click, no buzz. But then after a time (overnight, two days etc.) it cranks fine and multiple times until it randomly is dead again. This has happened about 3 times and the scenario is always the same. Cranks after some period of sitting. I had a locksmith go through the ignition and he felt everything there was ok even after I pushed him on the actuator pin deal. Besides looking ok, he thought it wouldn't ever crank if the pin were broken. I'm wondering about the solonoid if somehow it gets stuck then releases after a time. Or could the actuater pin be working intermittently? Any other ideas?