cjomanche

Thank you. Can some of these be saved codes? I recently had a lot of work done to the truck, maybe my mechanic didn’t clear them? They weren’t causing the light to come on. Cooling fan, yeah. I have a switch that turns it on and off. Fuel pump was recently replaced. No clue about the AC. It’s been working fine. i suspect 12 is what threw the code, since I started the truck with a jump. What’s the best way to clear the codes to see if the light comes back on?

Started the car this morning in 9 degree weather and it started right up. Let it warm for a minute, went to drive off and it died. Would not restart. I jumped the truck using my portable battery pack, but now the CEL is on. I’ve attached video of the code. Can someone let me know what this is? Btw, I have a block heater. Might be time to start using it. Thank you for your help. ABBC2779-F551-4660-BA45-6B1DEBA6DC7E.MOV

Thank you for the suggestions. Ended up going with Synergy hubcentrics in 1.25. Seems like good quality and a fair price.

Hi guys, I bought some used tires and wheels and found out that the spacers that came with my vehicle were 5x4.5-to-5x5, and I want to go back to the regular 5x4.5 all around. I removed the front spacers, but I will need to keep the rear ones due to the narrower 8.8 axle. Does anyone have any recommendations? The truck currently has 2" spacers (at least), but because of the ridiculous backspacing on the wheels it sits about right. The newer wheels have a very minimal amount of backspacing, so I think I need to look into 1" spacers, however all I'm finding is 1.25"s. Does anyone know of a good quality company that makes 1" spacers?

Sorry for the late reply. Replaced the entire distributor. Been running like a champ ever since.

Ended up being the distributor

We replaced the ignition coil and looked around at all the grounds. Visual inspection only but they looked ok. Will probably take a look at the alternator next

We did try this and it didn't make a difference. Also tried putting in all new plug wires, we changed the CPS, disconnected the exhaust to see if the cat was at fault. Nothing has worked so far. We are really at a loss on what to try next. It seems electrical since the dash lights dim slightly whenever a misfire is occurring. I just don't know what could be doing this since the truck runs normally when cold. It's only after it starts warming up that this problem presents itself.

That would make sense. I have the heavy duty aftermarket one installed. I cleared the codes in the system and these two remained on.

Hi guys, still chasing a phantom gremlin in my rig. Hoping this video can help. Used to only do this intermittently at around 2900 rpms but now it does it all over once it gets up to temperature, and it gets progressively worse the longer the engine is run. Becomes undriveable after a while. Put in a new O2 sensor, tps, coil, spark plugs, fuel filter, distributor cap and rotor, did a fuel pressure check. Nothing has fixed this. No check engine light, but it has stored codes 12 and 35 (I think). Next step will be fuel injectors. Any other ideas?

Fixed the video

Can someone please take a look at this and help me figure out which codes are being thrown? It looks like 1 pause 2 pause 3 pause 5 pause 5 pause 5 pause. From what I read the two 5s at the end mean end of test, but there are differently times gaps between the other numbers and I don’t know which codes these are. thank you in advance

Sorry if this has been asked a million times.... I searched and found that I need size 194 bulbs for the gauges in the dash, but will I also need the sockets that go with them? Most of the ones I'm finding on ebay have new sockets to install. I'd really like to use the stock ones if possible. Are these sockets just for LED replacements? Should I just go incandescent? I'm trying to fix the gauges so my check engine light and transfer case lights go back on. Thanks

That would explain why the truck drives normally until a while after it comes up to operating temp. Good info. I'm going to take an earlier suggestion and repair the gauge cluster bulbs first so I can see the information that the check engine light is giving off.

I will try to fix the damaged harness to the O2 sensor and if it doesn't work I'll do the CPS. Never did a CPS swap but I hear it's kind of a pain.

Definitely a good place to start. Thanks

I wish I could. My check engine light bulb in the dash appears to be busted. Another thing on my long list of repairs to make. Does the manche have a place for a reader? Sorry, this thing is still new to me.

Funny you mentioned that, I found a damaged wire leading from the O2 sensor the other day when I was under the Jeep. I know I need to replace it, but I didn't think it would be causing the kind of issue I was experiencing. Wouldn't it be fluttering and doing weird stuff immediately after starting the truck if it was an O2 sensor?

Hi everyone, I posted a thread a few months back regarding a "hiccup" I was experiencing at around 3,000 RPMs. Well, it's still there, but after installing a new clutch master cylinder, it is appearing all over the place. My wife has been driving the truck this week and she barely made it to work yesterday, had to have it towed home. The truck drives completely fine until a little while after it gets up to operating temperature, then it starts hiccupping. The tach needle flutters up and down, and the gas pedal becomes unresponsive. It gets progressively worse as time goes on. My friend thought it might be the throttle position sensor, but I swapped that out last night with a new one and it did not resolve the problem. Where do I go from here? I've read some information about crank position sensors sometimes causing this problem. Maybe some electrical short somewhere in the system? What could be doing just fine until a certain temperature kicks in, and then starts having trouble? I'm really stumped on this one. Thanks

Hi guys, hoping someone can help me. I replaced a bad clutch master cylinder yesterday and a spring from my clutch pedal fell off. I don’t know where it goes or how to reinstall. Conflicting reports based on my Google searches so far. There are two holes on the actual clutch pedal about 3/4 of the way up, so I’m assuming the spring connects to one of these, but I don’t know where it goes on the other side. Any ideas? Thanks

I just got the truck six months ago. Which wiring area should I check? My temp gauge reads about 15 to 20° hotter than it actually is. I installed a summit racing in line temp gauge and I haven't seen it go above 200°.

It's the actual engine hiccupping. You can feel it. The tach needle bouncing is just the visible evidence of it to give an idea how much of a stutter is occurring and how long it lasts. I wish you could hear the sound in the video, but it doesn't really come through on the recording. Oil pressure gauge didn't work when I got the truck and haven't gotten it fixed yet. There's an aftermarket gauge installed right underneath that you can barely see in the video.

Having a problem with my 91 Comanche Pioneer. 4.0 HO, 4x4, AX-15. When the RPM is sitting just below 3,000 RPM there is a "hiccup" that occurs randomly, but somewhat predictably. I've only been able to replicate it in 3rd and 4th gears, but it may happen with others. It does not happen at all when the RPMs are 2,600 or below, or above 3,000. Just in this one tiny range. Here is the video I took (sorry for the loud road noise.... cold air intake has gotta go) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k8p-...ature=youtu.be My buddy who knows a lot about these Jeeps had no idea what it was. Thought it might possibly be something with the distributor, or a sensor somewhere. Any ideas?

Unfortunately I haven't found a source yet that is giving CFM specs on these fans.

Hi everyone, I was hoping someone could recommend one of these electric fans: http://images.apwcontent.com/is/image/Autos/52028337ac_1 https://www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/pict/122476771200_/TYC-620560-Dual-Radiator-and-Condenser-Fan-Assembly.jpg The top one has 10 blades while the bottom one has 9. However, on the 9 bladed model, the shape of the blades is different. This is the one that is available on Amazon. Is one of these better than the other? Anyone have any experience? I was originally looking for a 2000-2001 XJ stock fan, but I haven't had a lot of luck so far.