Anteru

So i noticed my 88 Comanche pulls to the left. After getting it as straight as possible, i checked and it appears the passenger tire is toed out a little. I did an alignment, got it even on both sides, and adjusted the drag link so the wheel was straight. just took it for a drive and it is still pulling to the left. its as if i didnt do anything as far as an alignment goes. Is there something else that could be causing the passenger wheel to pull?

http://comancheclub.com/topic/33662-refurbishing-the-fuel-sender/ I removed the cable from the assembly off the tank and the needle on the gauge didnt drop. I still intend on replacing the sending unit eventually, but i noticed the actual gauge is a bit wonky on in the instrument panel. sure enough it was the gauge itself, the needle just fell off, i can see that the little spindle snapped. oh well, time for a new gauge cluster!

http://comancheclub.com/topic/33662-refurbishing-the-fuel-sender/ I removed the cable from the assembly off the tank and the needle on the gauge didnt drop. I still intend on replacing the sending unit eventually, but i noticed the actual gauge is a bit wonky on in the instrument panel.

transmission mount replaced, no more rattle! it was a delicate dance with a series of bottle jacks and jack stands to keep the transmission from drooping. now the fun with my jeep stalling when i hit the gas. TPS sensor? also i discovered that the fuel gauge is in fact the problem, not the fuel pump. any recommendations on repairing it? gonna try taking it apart tomorrow and see if anythings corroded.

well after checking underneath, i noticed the transmission mount seems to be the problem, so i will be doing both. I tried taking pictures but they didn't turn out :(. the replacement seems pretty easy.

Wait til you do the exhaust. How's that trans mount? Image Not Found I will have to check tomorrow, all washed up and done with working on it today. ended up working on my driver's side window regulator for the better part of the night.

It was the front passenger side wire. i pulled all the wires out of the plastic sleeve and inspected each one. any recommendations on the rattling exhaust? it is rattling on the cross member at low rpm. I have heard if you intend on replacing the exhaust soon, to just cut a heat-resistant rubber hose in half and slip it underneath. The exhaust on this best is about shot. so i am probably going to replace it when i add my 3 inch lift later on next year.

finally figured it out! it was a bad turn signal wire grounding out on one of the grounding wires on the drivers side. Now onto the exhaust rattle!

So i discovered the parking lamp fuse was blown, replaced that and parking lamps work correctly. Blinker issue is still a problem and now the solid right hand light comes back on on the dash when the lights are on. I isolated the front and the rear by unplugging the connector to the lights and testing the turn signals. still the same. driver's side is normal, left side flashes both sides. going to replace the turn signal switch when i get paid.

after talking with my brother who is a mechanic, he suggested having the relay tested. so i guess that is my next step.

Yep, hit it with electronics cleaner and scrubbed with a brush.

well, did steps 1-5, added a ground in the instrument panel, and replaced the sockets for the turn signals. engine is running a bit better, but i now have a new issue with the signal lights. turn headlights on, no running lights in the turn signal bulbs driver's side signal, functions normally, marker light stays off. passenger's side signal flashes both marker bulbs and faintly flickers the signal light on the driver's side i made sure to clean the connector for the light system. (boy that was a pain to separate) should i now be looking at the rear end? they function normally when i test the turn signal lights.

So I am going to revive a dead topic here... So I had the same issue listed above where it was super dim and the lights came on in the dash when you turn the lights on. So I replaced the passenger side socket and now its bright and beautiful and flashes all nice! Then I kicked the headlights on. the light on the dash comes on still and now it won't even flash on that side. Would replacing the other socket (pulled that one and its in decent shape, not great, but decent) fix the issue?

been following that actually :) doing the c101 connector now. I replaced the ground strap from the firewall to the engine that post it was on was a pain in the @$$ to get to. I connected the engine end to a post on the firewall. will that work? also the negative lead from the battery to the block had a hole in it, after stripping it back i noticed a ton of oil inside. Probably a large chunk of my problem right there. If you read Tip 1, I think I mention ADDING a ground from the firewall to the intake manifold and cleaning the firewall connection. That braided strap on the back of the head is a bear. yeah, i am going to have to buy a new one though, second i pulled the strap off, it split in half.

also, a dremmel with an abrasive pad saves loads of time on the grounds.

been following that actually :) doing the c101 connector now. I replaced the ground strap from the firewall to the engine that post it was on was a pain in the @$$ to get to. I connected the engine end to a post on the firewall. will that work? also the negative lead from the battery to the block had a hole in it, after stripping it back i noticed a ton of oil inside. Probably a large chunk of my problem right there.

So I just purchased an 88 Comanche Pioneer. Driving it home, I noticed some electrical gremlins off the bat. - when I hit the brakes, you can hear the audible CLICK of the brake switch engage, then the stereo shuts off and the panel lights come on. release the brake the stereo comes back - turn on the headlights and the radio goes out, comes back after the switch is engaged. - turn signal on the front passenger is super weak-sauce, hardly any brightness there at all. same for the passenger Rear - fuel gauge does not work, stuck at 1/4. when i took the panel off to clean the plexi glass screen, i noticed the needle does not bounce back when i attempt to move it (not sure if its supposed to. the speedo does return to 0 if i nudge it) I have since pulled the stereo out due to my suspicions of it being wired incorrectly, it had a TON of twist caps on it and the wiring harness was cut out (guess prev owner didnt find an adapter :P) After researching, I have noticed there is a lot of talk about the grounds being bad. which one should i attempt to replace first? i have been told bridging the existing ground under the instrument cluster to a stud on the firewall will help. any thoughts? should there be something else i am checking?